advice on a 2007 3500 dodge diesel - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
3rd Gen. Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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advice on a 2007 3500 dodge diesel

I have to make a decide asap, I am looking at a 2007 dodge 3500 4x4 mega cab SLT cummins diesel truck,, it has 75k on it,, its done a fair amount of towing but trucks clean. Is there anything I should be aware of or to want out for? The truck will be used by me to tow snowmobiles 324 miles one way, and in summer tow a 28 foot race car trailer with a car in it to the drags 3-4 times a year,, trucks got 3.73 gears, fuel mileage?? Trans?? I appreciated any help. Richie

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 10:55 PM
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front suspension, sloppy steering, white smoke in warm temps on startup. Hard starting when warm. Transmission shifting.

They are solid trucks if cared for. With that low a miles on it, lots of life left in it.

Here's a couple of links with a ton of info, too much to digest in one night but good to go back to..

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...you-truck.html

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...nsion-faq.html
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 09:57 AM
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Only downside IMO is if it's an auto trans. It'll get the job done, but it's like a 1980s transmission in a 2000s truck.
Otherwise, 70-120k is the mileage timeframe where I encountered the bulk of the repairs done to date on our 07, now at 175k miles. Not a deal breaker, just something to not get frustrated over with a "new" to you truck.
Shortlist of repairs from that mileage range:
Steering box, steering pump, injectors (add a 2mic filter to your truck right away. I got 120k out of the injectors without one.), #4 injector line, clutch, rear u joint(s).
Lost a front axle u joint at about 150k. And I've done some preemptive repairs, but these are the only major repairs needed on our 07 to date....knock on wood.

07 5.9 Mega, G56, SB Single disk Ceramic clutch, OE 1 piece Al driveshaft, 60hp Industrial injectors, Triple dog, Glacier 2mic filter, BD exhaust brake, ATI Super Damper, BD steering brace, Firestone bags, Big Wig swaybar, 4th Gen 20s and some home made Stableloads.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-25-2020, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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3500 4x4 with automatic and 3;73 ratio.. what should I expect for fuel mileage? I will be towing in summer a 28 foot enclosed race car trailer with car in it of course and winter snowmobile trailer maybe 2500-3000lbs?? If or when trans fails is there a solid reasonable fix?? Ime not really worried abought the engine and rears ect.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1290pine View Post
3500 4x4 with automatic and 3;73 ratio.. what should I expect for fuel mileage? I will be towing in summer a 28 foot enclosed race car trailer with car in it of course and winter snowmobile trailer maybe 2500-3000lbs?? If or when trans fails is there a solid reasonable fix?? Ime not really worried abought the engine and rears ect.
Idk about mpg towing that kind of stuff, and it depends if it's a 5.9 or 6.7.
Assuming you have the 5.9 with 48re. Towing that light you'll be fine with the trans for a little while most likely, just don't rod it, boost launch it or increaee the power by very much. The 48re is right at the limit with stock power. I have the auto as well and don't have any problems with it yet. Knock on wood (230k miles).
Yes I also vote betterfiltering system soon. I was one of the lucky ones I guess, I used stock filter and my injectors just started to go bad, lost compression rings on one piston.

06 230k miles 48re 3.73 stock for now
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-17-2020, 11:14 PM
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If it has run any tuner, it will need a trans. I roasted my 48RE in 10k with a slight tune, city driving. But, $3500 for a built trans and it is way better than stock. It makes a big difference, well worth it. I've towed a 26' loaded toy hauler 10-12k coast to coast and would not hesitate to do it again at 208,000 miles. Bad hubs happen but they are not hard to do if you follow the tutorials on here. Get an EGT gauge at a minimum.
I have 3.73 in mine. I get damn good mileage but it all depends on your driving. On a country road at 55 mph empty, I have gotten 21 hand calculated. The Oem digital gauge is always way off so you must hand calculate. On the highway, the key to great mileage is all in the tach. 1800-1850 is usually the sweet spot. (About 70 mph) I get about 16-18 empty. Usually 11-12 with a trailer. Above that, it drops off pretty quick. If I roll along at 75 to 80, it usually gets around 14 or 15 mostly empty (ATV in back) In the mountains, it can drop pretty low but it pulls like a beast so I don't mind. You can drop to 6 to 8 if you are passing...etc.

2005 2500, GDP intake horn, Air Boss plenum, AFE exhaust manifold, SMARTY Pod, Thuren Fox 2.0, TRE built transmission, Billet Output, Cool Tube, Aero 4040XL, Edge Insight, 08+ steering upgrade/Thuren stabilizer. Carli Ball Joints.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 07:24 AM
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If it has run any tuner, it will need a trans. I roasted my 48RE in 10k with a slight tune, city driving.....
Thats you though. Some people run the snot out of everything they have and abuse it.... and can tear up a rock lol. A lot of us have been running higher horsepower for a long time, and havent damaged our transmissions. Then again, we dont run the snot out of our trucks. Whether its tuned or not.... the hardest thing on the truck, is the right foot. But dont "doom and gloom" the guy, just because you tore your truck up lol. Ive got over 212,000 miles on the 48RE, and have been running a "90HP" tune for most of the time I have owned the truck

2004.5 2500/QCSB/SLT/48RE/Goerend Billet 15SS/4WD/3.73's/35-12.50-17E Ironman All Country M-T/Chrome Moto Metal 962 17x10 -24/HBS 2.5" Front & Thuren Adj Shackles Rear/ Rough Country Shocks, Dual Stabilizer & Adj Control Arms/ Synergy Steering & Adj Track Bar/Air Raid Dry/GDP Filter & Big Line Kit/4" Stainless-Turbo Back/Bush Whackers/DeeZee Bars/Bull Bar & 300W LED Light Bar/Android Double DIN Radio With Kicker Amp & JBL's/Smarty S06 & Edge CTS2 Insight
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 08:07 AM
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If you are destroying a 48re in 10K miles it was either built poorly or you are a terrible driver who will destroy anything.

While I'm going to do a built trans soon, I'm custom tuned and running a hot tune with bigger injectors and play around a bit (just no launches) and near 50K on this rebuild without any issues.

People have a cow over the 48RE but it's considerably better than the 68RFE found in the newer trucks.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madstuka View Post
If it has run any tuner, it will need a trans. I roasted my 48RE in 10k with a slight tune, city driving. But, $3500 for a built trans and it is way better than stock. It makes a big difference, well worth it. I've towed a 26' loaded toy hauler 10-12k coast to coast and would not hesitate to do it again at 208,000 miles. Bad hubs happen but they are not hard to do if you follow the tutorials on here. Get an EGT gauge at a minimum.
I have 3.73 in mine. I get damn good mileage but it all depends on your driving. On a country road at 55 mph empty, I have gotten 21 hand calculated. The Oem digital gauge is always way off so you must hand calculate. On the highway, the key to great mileage is all in the tach. 1800-1850 is usually the sweet spot. (About 70 mph) I get about 16-18 empty. Usually 11-12 with a trailer. Above that, it drops off pretty quick. If I roll along at 75 to 80, it usually gets around 14 or 15 mostly empty (ATV in back) In the mountains, it can drop pretty low but it pulls like a beast so I don't mind. You can drop to 6 to 8 if you are passing...etc.
3500$ for a built trans ???

Wow. That has NOT been my experience .

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 12:19 PM
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If you read around these forums, you will find a lot of information on torn up 48re due to a tuner. I'm not "dooming and glooming", I'm just trying to help with the information I have, but chances are..... The fact that your transmission hasn't been torn up doesn't prove it can't be. It could be several factors, towing...etc. I tore my transmission up with the low setting (50hp) driving in daily stop and go DC traffic, after a few trips to Baghdad. I do have a heavy foot, this is not uncommon among our species. He may have a heavy foot too, the previous owner also may have had a heavy foot. I'm no expert, but I was there when my transmission was torn down by a well-known expert in the field. I'm telling him, what the professional transmission told me.
I'll bet you a dollar that people that build transmissions for a living will tell you that tuners ruin transmissions.

2005 2500, GDP intake horn, Air Boss plenum, AFE exhaust manifold, SMARTY Pod, Thuren Fox 2.0, TRE built transmission, Billet Output, Cool Tube, Aero 4040XL, Edge Insight, 08+ steering upgrade/Thuren stabilizer. Carli Ball Joints.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 24hrsparkey View Post
3500$ for a built trans ???



Wow. That has NOT been my experience .


Mine either! I spent nearly that just a couple weeks ago for a flex plate, torque converter and input shaft. Just the parts alone! I did all the work myself.

2005 QCSB, cold air intake, guages, a trans built by me and HPTuners tunes by me
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 12:22 PM
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Yes Sir, I was very lucky on that deal for sure. One of the best deals I have ever gotten and a HUGE performance upgrade for the price.

2005 2500, GDP intake horn, Air Boss plenum, AFE exhaust manifold, SMARTY Pod, Thuren Fox 2.0, TRE built transmission, Billet Output, Cool Tube, Aero 4040XL, Edge Insight, 08+ steering upgrade/Thuren stabilizer. Carli Ball Joints.
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