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Reuse injection lines with rust

8K views 47 replies 14 participants last post by  Kmehr 
#1 ·
Replacing my injectors with new BBIs and all of my injection lines appear to have rust in them. Is this normal? Should I reuse them? I picked up some really watery fuel about 30k miles ago and it rusted my fuel filter top. Truck ran great and these are the original injectors. Tips had a good bit of goop on them.

I don’t want to jeapordize these super expensive new injectors, but I also don’t want to replace my whole fuel system if this is normal!




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#4 ·
I'm not re-using the injectors, just included that picture for reference. The rust appears to be all inside the lines, so not really sure how to clean them out?
 
#9 ·
Protect your new injectors and pump with a FASS system there's an old thread about mine somewhere here and it still works great.
 
#5 ·
If you have rust in your fuel and it ever breaks free, it could right into your new injector and ruin it.
 
#6 ·
If you have rust in the injector lines, and it appears that you do, I personally would replace everything back to the filter. Probably drain the tank and clean it as well as blowing out the line to be sure there is no water left in the system. I'd also be changing my filters more frequently until all the rust stopped showing up. Keep on top of the water separator as well. Cheaper to be cautious than to replace another set of injectors.
 
#7 ·
I was afraid that was going to be the advice... I haven't had any rusty filters since I switched to the CAT UHE filter, and haven't any issues with how it runs, but i really don't like the idea of the rust going through these new BBIs..
 
#8 ·
If there is visible rust inside the lines, throw them away.
Also check the rail inside, rust throw away.
Must use new connector tubes or your injector warranty is tiitties up.

Any rust in the system will show up and be trapped in those new expensive injectors, when they plug up and you send in for warranty, DENIED
 
#10 ·
since you need to replace everything to eliminate the rust from the system, any chance you could take pics of the worst feed tube end & dump that end into a decent amount of the dex/merc atf, let it soak 24 or so hours and post a follow up pic?



what fuel are you using? (d2, b5, b20...)
 
#11 · (Edited)
Playing it safe and ordered new lines, rail and "bag of parts" to replace the stuff fuel has touched in the CP3.

@steve05ram360 I will work on that today and post some pictures. I've never used biodiesel that I know of. On my normal routine, I only use the same two pumps at very high volume stations. I did a trip last winter across country and think I picked up a ton of water somewhere. I started a thread on it back then, other than changing filters though, this is the first I've done to take any of the fuel system apart.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/2492121-rust-water.html
 
#12 ·
thanks, curious to see the ATFs effect if any. i think none but a pic is worth a thousand words...
 
#13 ·
Start using 0.5 oz of TC-W3 rated outboard lube per gal diesel. Walmart Supertech is the lowest cost and avail. everywhere. TC-W3 lube has extra additives to prevent water corrosion in fuel systems.
Also lubes and quiets down the injectors and CP3

ALL road diesel has en-trained water in it, even high volume stations. Comes from the pipeline system and bulk fuel storage tanks. Few stations bother with expensive centrifuge water removal filtration
 
#14 · (Edited)
I use power service in every tank, have since I owned it.

The line between the cp3 and the fuel rail is the most rusty. Man this sucks. It was running really well before I took it apart. Guess it’s like blood pressure though, the silent killer. If anyone knows the CP3 to fuel rail line part number that’d be greatly appreciated. found it - 05086870AA




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#16 ·
Everything so far has come from Diesel Power Products. Mostly because I find their website the easiest to use and prices good. Hopefully they send me a nice coupon cause I've spent a stupid amount there this week...

Having a hard time finding that feed line anywhere online that I trust...05086870AA
 
#19 ·
Im kinda surprised the ATF removed the rust like that.

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#20 ·
Me too. And honestly it wipes off pretty easy on the other ones. Just not sure how to clean the inside of the tube out. OR if putting it in ATF will just knock things loose to blast my injectors.

Not sure what to do about the #6 line. Looks like tis not even made anymore.
 
#21 ·
That's the hard part, not being able to see inside the injector lines. You don't know what's left in them that could potentially get into your squirters.

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#22 ·
I would think if the full blast of atf did that, the smaller amount in the fuel would have a negligent impact, there is just not enough of it to do anything, but maybe it might prevent it? My truck has approx 100k now using the ATF/2SO mix. First set lasted to approx 160~165k miles, 2nd set about the same. First set lived its life on the MMO/PSD mix, 2nd set 130~140k on it, then went to the ATF/2SO mix. It sucks not knowing how long injectors will last with the mix being used, but I will find out first hand.... in 50~60k.

Two things to remind people about, I run a fuel cooler year round after the OEM filter and before the 2 micron filter, and my truck rarely sees 20k psi of pressure.

Kmehr, thanks again for doing the experiment...
 
#24 ·
If I can’t find this injector line ASAP, I’m thinking about putting an old injector and tune back in #6 for the time being. I have a line on some shops to call. But it’s also my daily so I can’t be without it much longer.


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#27 ·
Good news and bad news. Good-#6 injection line is in my garage. Bad- once I pulled the gear pump off the CP3, (royal PITA by the way), the internals of my CP3 look atrocious. Wish I hadn’t listened to whatever forum post I read that the bag of parts/arson/victory kit would take care of this. The fuel clearly touches much more! Now I have to decide- stock CP3 pump and install bag of parts on it (already installed the FCA, so no returning it). Or sell it at a discount and fork over for a juiced up pump. I’d like to bump up my turbo someday, but don’t really plan on anything other than that. Thoughts? Also- are reman CP3s to be avoided like the injectors?



Here’s my fuel filter by the way- has about 5k miles on it. I think this rust damage happened a long time ago and I’m getting clean fuel now, but the damage has already been done. Part of me thinks maybe these fuel systems are not as fragile as we make them out to be cause the truck was running great, the other part of me thinks I was driving a ticking time bomb that was one rust particle busting loose away from an engine meltdown. Guess we’ll never know.


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#28 ·
Your fuel system should be surgically clean. How do you think rust particles will pass through a hole in the injector that's so small you can't even see it?
 
#29 ·
I tend to agree, however I first noticed the rusty filter over a year and 30K miles ago, so who knows.

What's the consensus on reman injection pumps? I can get a BD reman local for $650. New are looking like $1,200ish.
 
#30 ·
All those new Cummins fuel system parts are worthless unless you put a commercial HD Class 8 type water separator pre lift pump in your fuel system. Even that big CAT dirt filter will turn to rust on the outflow side and actually feed rust into those new $$$$$ injectors. The CAT dirt filters pass water like a Texas ****** tonk bar mens room urinal passes beer pee out the drain.
Get a Donaldson, CAT, Baldwin with the bottom drain valve. Drain weekly.

The Baldwin PF7977 in the stock filter housing is ONLY an insufficient backup to a real water separator.
 
#33 ·
Hard to believe there's a single one of these trucks on the road still based on the condescending doom n gloom you spread.
(On a separate note, while your knowledge appears to be quite vast with these trucks and is appreciated, I recall your older posts being more objective and much less sarcastic. Is everything ok?)
 
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