Want to start this post as I'm really thinking about doing all of this in my driveway, I just want to gather people's thoughts in this thread and possibly do an extensive write up again. It seams all the old threads are incomplete or Photobucket has blurred out the images (heisting of the photos, round 2).
Bit of history, 04.5 Cummins, 6sp. I've done pretty thorough write ups on here that were pic heavy having to do with dropping and re-sealing the oil pan, as well as the front crank seal as well. All in order to solve a leak since I've owned the truck (2012).
Rear mains, front crank seal/timing cover, new oil pan gasket, breather tubing, puck, nothing has solved the issue. It really has to be one more thing, and that's the timing gear housing cover to block interface.
Most of the threads I've ready have to do with oil dripping off the passenger side onto the A/C comp, and it's solve by pulling all the parts to get to the "slope" of the timing case where the 2 bolts are far apart, and people will seal that crack with RTV and be good. Unfortunately, that's not where my leak is originating. I was able to snap this photo, this is looking under the CP3:
I'm unsure of how high the leak starts, but it's coming down the driver side, collecting on top of the block where the oil pan bolts, runs to the back of the block, then down the bellhousing/back of pan. It does not look like I can get back there to seal anything up with gasketmaker there's not a lot of room. There is NO oil on the passenger side at all
So it's looking like I'm going to have to pull everything.
I called the dealerships around my area, wanted $3500 to do this. They all pull the entire cam assembly out, despite reading and hearing that there is a puller that is used by some places to pull that cam gear off, which would simplify everything. But no one I talked to would do that.
So it may be up to me to get all this done outside in the driveway, in the PNW fall where it rains 25 hours a day.
The teardown is pretty straight forward as I understand it, but I have a couple questions. My plan is to pull the oil pan again since there are some mating surfaces that require a dab of RTV to be completely sealed. This is going to require the use of the cherry picker to lift the engine enough to drop the pickup tube and then clear the axle. I was able to do this last go around by loosening the engine mounts and rotating the engine up on the passenger side enough. There were no transmission nuts/bolts removed though for this. I'm trying to avoid cutting the lower support to get the CAM out.
So here's what I'm thinking as a removal process (edited):
1) Drain coolant from radiator as well as the oil.
2) Massive bumper
3) Fan assembly/shroud (with the special tooling)
4) Hoses, Radiator, intercooler, unbolt condenser and let it hang out of the way
5) Upper support
7) Harmonic Balancer
9) Un-bolt power steering assembly and rotate out of the way
9.2) Notch frame to remove lower radiator support: https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/23167226-post2.html
10) Timing cover bolts, pop the timing cover off (this has a VERY nice bead of RTV from me last time...
10.2) Rotate the engine to TDC (line up the crank/cam "0"s)
11) Move under the truck, oil pan bolts, loosen motor mounts/possibly transmission mount bolt/nut*
12) Cherry pick the engine up and yard the pan out
13) Let the engine back down on its mounts and move back to the top
14) Take valve the cover off
16) Chopstick and zip tie/rubber band method to hold tappets in place (although if they fall it's not detrimental since the oil pan is off?)
17) Cherry pick the engine back up to clear the lower brace
18) Yard the cam assembly out
20) timing gear housing
21) Replace gasket****
22) Reverse everything
So a few questions and feel free to add anything, this was just from the top of my head
11)* Is it necessary to loosen the transmission mounting hardware? It wasn't to just drop the oil pan, there was enough flex
15)** I've read about people pulling the injector harness and injectors...is this necessary (I don't think so?) Is there anything else under the cover that I'm forgetting that needs to go?
19)*** Is there any trick for the CP3 gear to pop off? Then I'm guessing you have to un-bolt the CP3 from that housing? Is it ok to let it hang after that?
21)****Does anyone favor something like "The Right Stuff" for sealing the mating surface between the block and timing gear housing rather than the gasket (similar to sealing to timing cover to the timing housing)? I've sealed many of oil pans and mating surfaces with great success so I'm wondering if it would work better in this location over a gasket in the long term?
A couple more things...in case my cam doesn't look good, I have a buddy that pulled a new 6.7 cam/tappets from an engine that he used for a 5.9/6.7 swap to go to an aftermarket cam. I don't think I'd be gaining anything (if anything at all, it may not perform as well because of the emissions criteria on the newer engines), but if I need am I correct in thinking I could just swap them and the tappets out?
I think since I will be doing the work myself, I'm going to a billet timing cover. Yest they are a lot of $$, but I'm thinking for the future crank seal replacements if and when...you only have to remove the harmonic balancer and seal cover to remove and install a new seal...instead of breaking the cover seal:
Anyway, any other tips, tricks, or thoughts are appreciated in advance. Like I mentioned, I plan on doing a writeup on this for all of the other lost/incomplete threads out there!