Temp quick rise after replacing Thermostat - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Temp quick rise after replacing Thermostat

Hey Guys,

I just replaced my thermostat because I think the mechanic i used didn't put the right one in. Back story, My water pump blow a bearing out last year and since he was there, I asked him to replace the thermostat. After that, the truck seemed to run hotter then normal, nothing crazy. It ran at 200 plus/minus 5 degrees and when I pull a hill, it climbed to 215 or so, EMPTY, no load. Which I thought was wrong. Didn't think much of it because the fan would kick in and cool it off.

Okay, now today. Saturday I bought a 180 degree from Napa since it been pretty damn hot here, I'm in Oregon right now. We were going camping and I was pulling my 4 horse trailer which has living quarters in it and I didn't want to risk overheating.

Now, that I have driven the truck a few times, my Smarty Touch display shows me that the temp climbed to 235, like in less then 10 seconds, by this time the fan is screaming at me and the temp drops just as fast as it climbed. Then settles at 182-190 and doesn't have a problem. The stock gauge never shows the spike.

Want could this be? Did not loss any coolant when I swap them out. It did NOT do this before I swapped.

Air pocket? Bad thermostat? Bad temp probe?

I guess I should have order the better brand, but I didn't have time.

Truck specs are in the signature. Any thoughts would be helpful.


2004 Dodge 2500 2wd, Crew Cab, 5.9L Cummins, 266K miles, Auto 48RE, 4:10 rear end, 1-ton Rear Springs, BD Exhaust Brake, Mag-Hytec Deep Dish Trans Pan, 4" from turbo back exhaust, Rebuilt Transmission w/ Triple Disk Converter, Billet Input & Towing Valve Body, Smarty Touch w/ EGT Probe.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:34 PM
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Trying to learn:
How did they replace the thermostat without loosing any coolant?

2012 6.7 4x4 Laramie, 68RFE, 3.73, Deleted with mystery tune. No scan tool yet
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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When I had the shop do it a year ago, I am sure they lost coolant. When I replaced the thermostat Saturday, the truck was warm and the top hose was empty. When I took the 3 screws out and pop the housing off, nothing came out.

2004 Dodge 2500 2wd, Crew Cab, 5.9L Cummins, 266K miles, Auto 48RE, 4:10 rear end, 1-ton Rear Springs, BD Exhaust Brake, Mag-Hytec Deep Dish Trans Pan, 4" from turbo back exhaust, Rebuilt Transmission w/ Triple Disk Converter, Billet Input & Towing Valve Body, Smarty Touch w/ EGT Probe.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:58 PM
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if you can, get a vacuum coolant fill system. drain and refill the coolant.
there is coolant loss when changing a tstat, no way around it.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnharms31 View Post
. . . When I took the 3 screws out and pop the housing off, nothing came out.
I think you just found the problem.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elephantrider View Post
if you can, get a vacuum coolant fill system. drain and refill the coolant.

there is coolant loss when changing a tstat, no way around it.


So you think there could be an air pocket?


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2004 Dodge 2500 2wd, Crew Cab, 5.9L Cummins, 266K miles, Auto 48RE, 4:10 rear end, 1-ton Rear Springs, BD Exhaust Brake, Mag-Hytec Deep Dish Trans Pan, 4" from turbo back exhaust, Rebuilt Transmission w/ Triple Disk Converter, Billet Input & Towing Valve Body, Smarty Touch w/ EGT Probe.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 11:26 PM
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yes, i would 1st look at ensuring there is no air in the system.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnharms31 View Post
When I replaced the thermostat Saturday, the truck was warm and the top hose was empty. When I took the 3 screws out and pop the housing off, nothing came out.
System is low in coolant.
Have to top up the system properly.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
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Have to top up the system properly.
There are different tricks to do that.
One way is:
Top up the radiator from the cap while squeezing the upper hose until there is no or little air bubble show up at radiator cap.
Top up the radiator against. Also top up the bottle.
Drive it until the thermostat cycle on/off several times. You can notice the cycling by watch the coolant temp gauge.
Let engine cool down overnight.
Check and repeat the top up and drive process again if necessary.

With cold engine the radiator should be full up to the cap and the coolant in the bottle should be at least at the cold line.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 08:50 AM
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One other thing, make sure that the radiator is clean.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 01:09 PM
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Get rid of that Napa thermostat. I battled similar issues on my 6.7 before and the 5.9 mega I have now.

I put a Napa t-stat in my 6.7 when I changed my water pump on the side of the highway. It would always climb too high, and then drop. Over and over and over again. I finally pulled it and put a Cummins t-stat in and it would climb to 190ish and stay there. Same thing was happening on my 5.9 mega that i bought in March. Cummins thermostat fixed that one too.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys.

Yes, I know the thermostat is lacking, but i needed to get something else in. I will be buying a Cummins thermostat and replacing it.

But, also, I found out last night, that I am low, like really low of coolant. Not sure when this happened and how long I have been driving like it this low. Most likely from when I had the water pump changed. I will not be using that mechanic again. I had a new bottle of coolant, in case I needed to add some when I swap out thermostat. So, last night, I open the radiator and it was low, I put most of the bottle in. Drove it around, but didn't get it to warm.

This morning, I checked and yep, still low. So, I am going to fill it up and fill the reservoir to the cold line and drive it.

Hopefully this will fix the problem.

2004 Dodge 2500 2wd, Crew Cab, 5.9L Cummins, 266K miles, Auto 48RE, 4:10 rear end, 1-ton Rear Springs, BD Exhaust Brake, Mag-Hytec Deep Dish Trans Pan, 4" from turbo back exhaust, Rebuilt Transmission w/ Triple Disk Converter, Billet Input & Towing Valve Body, Smarty Touch w/ EGT Probe.
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