Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

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-   -   06 blown engine (https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/2504401-06-blown-engine.html)

Dylanss180 07-12-2019 07:37 PM

I am more of a fan of the s400 over s400 setup. No need for waste gates going that route and much simpler setup. Whatever you do, make sure you get a t4 foot manifold and turbo for your secondary turbo.

cerberusiam 07-12-2019 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CumNewb (Post 29029413)
Would I need custom pistons for 5.9 rods? Can you or anyone give me a straight forward build list of everything I'd need?
I'm not opposed to making it a 6.4, for the most part I'm going to make it a DD and occasionally tow / have fun DD.
Do I need to look for a specific year 24v rod? Will the 06 rods work?


All CR's use the same cracked cap rods, you want to loose then in favor of the forged rods from the VP engine series.

The 6.4 and 6.2 configurations are just not worth the $$ unless it is play time, the 6.4 doesn't address the rela issues and the 6.2 requires too many expensive custom parts. If you can get a good 6.7 long block then it is less than $1000 to fix the cons and retain the pro's, well worth it for a measly 500-700 HP and the reliability it gains.

ALL CR engines used cracked cap rods so the 06 rods are the typical junk.

Dylanss180 07-12-2019 08:27 PM

I also recommend balancing your pistons and rods.

cerberusiam 07-12-2019 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dylanss180 (Post 29030021)
When I spoke with D&J precision, they said that if you aren't going over 800hpr, stock rods are fine. When I built my 6.7, I managed to a set of Wagler rods on sale. They are very beefy for sure.

I also recommend balancing your pistons and rods.

Fine for what is my question, definitely NOT in any performance engine I would build. I have had these shops tell me the CR and 24V rods are the same, tell me the CR rods are forged, they are goo to 800 hp, 6.7's don't have HG problems, and the steam ports are extraneous equipment (all this while they 30 6.7 block in various stages of rebuild and 2 weeks out on work). They can spew that crap it isn't THEIR engine and they are not warrantying a performance build, it is total BS.

While the rod may hold 800 HP you had better have them magnfluxed and checked before using them and NEVER put too much boost or fuel into any cylinder. The iron powder rods have more tensile strength than forged, are cheaper to manufacture, and it ends there. You cannot balance them effective. there isn't enough material to do it, cannot resize and make them round again with boring them and using an over size bearing, they will NOT bend they break and window the block. A forged rod will bend and start vibrating so you know you hurt it but it won't window the block with no warning. Worst of all the weights vary so much ALL you can do is try to get the pistons that are up at the same time as close in weight as possible (maybe 10 grams apart). Example is the one in my shop now, 100 grams difference across all rods, 8-10 grams on pairs, pistons were under 3 grams different. Crank is 0 balance so we balanced rods to 1 gram and called it good across ALL 6 not just pairs. Finding some to balance a Cummins crank is like finding a local shop to do a fire ring. Plenty of them around here and none have the equipment large enough to handle the components.

If you want a learning exercise ask yourself and research WHY the 6.7 really needs a fluid damper and why drive train vibes are such a problem in these trucks. There are REASONS for the vibe issues and it starts at the engine. The brand new 6.7 engine has gone back to forged rods and graphite impregnated block for both strength, reliability, and NVH reasons. As HP goes up problems ensue if tolerances are not tightened drastically, Cummins engineers are no dummies when it comes to this stuff.

CumNewb 09-24-2019 08:20 PM

Biting the bullet, found a 06 long block for a steal. I'll get the build date off the vin sticker. If it's a early 06 would I have to worry about possibly putting in a different engine?
I also found a 07 5.9 for $200 more in my area. But the 07 has a egr on it doesn't it?
Out of curiosity, does it matter which u get? I dont want the 07 if it has egr in that year.
Other than redoing head gasket, oil pan, front and rear main, is there anything else recommended to replace on a 250k motor? I'm not against putting mentioned 24v rods and OEM cummins STD pistons.
Should I look at a new cam as well?

Dylanss180 09-24-2019 10:28 PM

If it is an early 07, it will be a 5.9 block with no egr. If you have a later 07 it will be a 6.7 with the EGR system.

What you put in the engine depends on what you want to do. Usually, if you gut the engine and everything looks good, just hone the cylinders, replace all the bearings and put new seals and rings in there and you should be good for a while.

I would also balance your rods and pistons while everything is out to help smooth out the engine.

Why would you have to possibly put in a new engine if it is an 06?

CumNewb 09-25-2019 02:40 AM

Injectors failed, cylinders all tore up, needs re-machined. Ate holes in a few pistons. No tuner was ever installed.
Thinking of CPP's 24v hardened rods, & OEM std pistons. I've read somewhere in older posts it's best to replace the cam while in there any truth to this?
So all 07 5.9's have no egr? That's great news.

Dylanss180 09-25-2019 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CumNewb (Post 29098701)
Injectors failed, cylinders all tore up, needs re-machined. Ate holes in a few pistons. No tuner was ever installed.
Thinking of CPP's 24v hardened rods, & OEM std pistons. I've read somewhere in older posts it's best to replace the cam while in there any truth to this?
So all 07 5.9's have no egr? That's great news.

Correct, no EGR. People haven't had many issues on 5.9 engines with the connecting rods breaking. I personally like Wagler rods and if you are patient, you can get good deals on them.

I am not sure why you need to replace the cam if it looks good and you aren't running serious power. I put a hamilton cam in that helps my turbo spool earlier but isn't setup for high rpms. If you change the cam, make sure to change the tappets also.

CumNewb 09-25-2019 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dylanss180 (Post 29098749)
Quote:

Originally Posted by CumNewb (Post 29098701)
Injectors failed, cylinders all tore up, needs re-machined. Ate holes in a few pistons. No tuner was ever installed.
Thinking of CPP's 24v hardened rods, & OEM std pistons. I've read somewhere in older posts it's best to replace the cam while in there any truth to this?
So all 07 5.9's have no egr? That's great news.

Correct, no EGR. People haven't had many issues on 5.9 engines with the connecting rods breaking. I personally like Wagler rods and if you are patient, you can get good deals on them.

I am not sure why you need to replace the cam if it looks good and you aren't running serious power. I put a hamilton cam in that helps my turbo spool earlier but isn't setup for high rpms. If you change the cam, make sure to change the tappets also.

Appreciate the input, Ideally I'll just get back on the road first. But I was considering rods. I plan to add a trans, s364 on 25% tips.

CumNewb 10-03-2019 08:34 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Dropped the tank for a lift pump, as I thought the tank is completely full of algae. I'll be washing out the tank, anyone have any ideas for the fuel lines?
I was thinking cycle the key, an let the lift pump run and have a bucket below where the fuel line runs to the factory filter, and drain it into a bucket with adding killems fppf and about 5 gallons of fuel used as disposable fuel. Then running fppf for until the bottles empty. (One 16-OZ bottle is supposed to be good for 1300 gallons)

Anybody have any comments, questions, or thoughts for this?

CumNewb 10-11-2019 11:21 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I'm thinking change the
oil pressure sensor
Cam sensor & crank. While it's out of the truck, anything else you'd recommend?
Does it matter electronic wise or anything in particular I need sense it's a 07 motor in a 06?
Forgot everyone likes pictures, here ya go.
$3000 for a 90k mile complete running motor

GNR 10-12-2019 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cerberusiam (Post 29030117)
Fine for what is my question, definitely NOT in any performance engine I would build. I have had these shops tell me the CR and 24V rods are the same, tell me the CR rods are forged, they are goo to 800 hp, 6.7's don't have HG problems, and the steam ports are extraneous equipment (all this while they 30 6.7 block in various stages of rebuild and 2 weeks out on work). They can spew that crap it isn't THEIR engine and they are not warrantying a performance build, it is total BS.

While the rod may hold 800 HP you had better have them magnfluxed and checked before using them and NEVER put too much boost or fuel into any cylinder. The iron powder rods have more tensile strength than forged, are cheaper to manufacture, and it ends there. You cannot balance them effective. there isn't enough material to do it, cannot resize and make them round again with boring them and using an over size bearing, they will NOT bend they break and window the block. A forged rod will bend and start vibrating so you know you hurt it but it won't window the block with no warning. Worst of all the weights vary so much ALL you can do is try to get the pistons that are up at the same time as close in weight as possible (maybe 10 grams apart). Example is the one in my shop now, 100 grams difference across all rods, 8-10 grams on pairs, pistons were under 3 grams different. Crank is 0 balance so we balanced rods to 1 gram and called it good across ALL 6 not just pairs. Finding some to balance a Cummins crank is like finding a local shop to do a fire ring. Plenty of them around here and none have the equipment large enough to handle the components.

If you want a learning exercise ask yourself and research WHY the 6.7 really needs a fluid damper and why drive train vibes are such a problem in these trucks. There are REASONS for the vibe issues and it starts at the engine. The brand new 6.7 engine has gone back to forged rods and graphite impregnated block for both strength, reliability, and NVH reasons. As HP goes up problems ensue if tolerances are not tightened drastically, Cummins engineers are no dummies when it comes to this stuff.

Are you saying the Common Rail engines have powered rods? Everything I have read said they are forged steel and fracture split. Is that not correct?

Thanks.


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