Dually Rear Brake Replacement - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Dually Rear Brake Replacement

I am planning to replace my rear pads and rotors on my dually. I have the FSM but was looking for a decent video that showed the process. Attached is a 5 part series that shows how it's done.

Except, the videos don't show how to remove/torque the rotor/hub bolts and torque the axle shaft bolts without rotating the assembly while trying to rotate the breaker bar/torque wrench. My idea is to place a breaker bar, wrapped in a microfiber towel, and place the bar between the axle studs to hold everything stationary while torque is applied to the bolt and to torque all the bolts in a crisscross pattern. The towel will help protect the wheel studs. Any other ideas?


I do have 2 questions: Included with my Mopar pads are new clips. I assume I could reuse the old ones but will plan on replacing them? And besides needing to possibly lube the caliper slide bolts, is brake grease needed to be applied to the underside of the clips where the pads slide into? I assume yes to grease application there as well.


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 01:26 PM
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That will work fine.

The bolts that hold the rotor to the hub are special and expensive from the stealership if you break one. If you mildly heat them before removing, the loctite usually gives them up.

The rear seal usually resists going back on the axle stub, use care to avoid damaging it. If you keep the outside bearing in place by hand and following the hub it helps with alignment to get the seal in place.

A bad thing about the dually setup is that the rear seal is fragile and can be damaged easily by brake heating. Long downhill grades under heavy braking can take out the seal. Then you have fluid creeping out and running onto the rotor and pads resulting in no braking power.

The outside axle gasket is easy to make if you buy material. They should not be reused. I'm sometimes tempted to use RTV gasket maker but think that might make it harder to come apart later.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, I priced out those bolts and the hubs...Dodge is awfully proud of those parts... I plan to use copious amounts of penetrating products to help dis-assembly. And I have new seals too. Looking forward to some intimate times with 13 year old parts.....patience is the virtue here.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:54 PM
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I’ve done lots of these. Once you’re done you will think it’s not so bad. Make sure you have the special socket for the axle nut. The rotor to hub bolts aren’t that bad either. Just use an impact gun and it’ll zip them off. Clean the bolts off and use loctite to put them back in.

Also, don’t use an aftermarket hub seal. I’ve had the best luck with the OEM Mopar hub seals. I’ve used all the other brand name seals and they have either leaked right away or shortly after.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evildiesel View Post
Iíve done lots of these. Once youíre done you will think itís not so bad. Make sure you have the special socket for the axle nut. The rotor to hub bolts arenít that bad either. Just use an impact gun and itíll zip them off. Clean the bolts off and use loctite to put them back in.

Also, donít use an aftermarket hub seal. Iíve had the best luck with the OEM Mopar hub seals. Iíve used all the other brand name seals and they have either leaked right away or shortly after.
Thanks. I have the tools (hub socket and the seal press plate). And I bought all Mopar parts. Thanks for the impact gun tip...that and the penetrating fluid and heat, hopefully, will do the trick.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:12 AM
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I've done this job several times and never broken one of the hub to rotor bolts. As Evildiesel stated, am impact gun zips them out in no time. And good plan to change the inner wheel bearing seals while you are there. It's not uncommon for old seals to start seeping after pulling the hubs off and reinstalling them. It's cheap insurance to just replace them now while you are doing rotors.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:17 PM
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If you have a 4wd, and are doing the work on the ground, you could lock it in 4wd before starting the job. That would save monkeying around with the breaker bar/towel.
Or put a bar through a u joint where it will brace against the floor or the truck .
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grit dog View Post
If you have a 4wd, and are doing the work on the ground, you could lock it in 4wd before starting the job. That would save monkeying around with the breaker bar/towel.
Or put a bar through a u joint where it will brace against the floor or the truck .
maybe on a 2500 with rotor-over-hub-and-lug-nuts style hub, axle shafts will be out and hub will be off while you have to bolt the rotor to the hub on a DRW style hub.

I wouldn't bother with the microfiber cloth, a piece of flat stock (mine is like 0.5"x1"x24") wedged between two lug nuts gives plenty of counter-leverage to torque the nuts on.

another pro-tip: impact gun does take out the rotor to hub bolts nicely, but you can do it with hand tools. factory specs red loc tite on the rotor to hub bolts (and you should be using some on replacement as per FSM), so a little heat with a propane torch and they will come out with hand tools no problem
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:07 PM
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Great Information Here. In the next year or so this will be on my TO DO list

Thank You all

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
I've done this job several times and never broken one of the hub to rotor bolts. As Evildiesel stated, am impact gun zips them out in no time. And good plan to change the inner wheel bearing seals while you are there. It's not uncommon for old seals to start seeping after pulling the hubs off and reinstalling them. It's cheap insurance to just replace them now while you are doing rotors.
Yeah I use an impact to get mine out, one of those cordless 1/2" Dewalt 20V Max XR model. But if the rotor bolts don't loosen up right away, don't push it. My impact did break one once, then you have to extract the broken stud and pay dearly for a replacement.

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