48RE Shifting Issue - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:11 PM
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Hi ajust the shifter cable by block the wheel just case. Go under the dash and release the white cable lock then go to the transmission and push the shift lever all the way rearward to much sure it in park then go back into the truck and push the cable lock back in thats the book way. I have always had better luck releasing the white cable lock with the shifter in neutral and playing with it get get all gears it is spring loaded so sometimes you just have to play with the cable, after trying it make sure it only starts in Park and neutral also run it though the gears it should be smooth and all gears light up.


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:10 AM
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If you are sure rooster comb and detent ball/ spring good
then I would double check TRS by
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TRS)
NOTE: For all circuit identification in the following steps, Refer to the appropriate Wiring Information.
1. Raise vehicle on suitable hoist.
2. Disconnect the vehicle’s shift cable from the manual lever.
3. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense pin of the TRS and the transmission
case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
4. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense
pin of the TRS and the transmission case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
5. If the resistance is greater than 5 ohms in either of the previous steps, check for a dirty contact between the tip
of the TRS rod and the valve body manual lever. If the contact is OK, replace the TRS.
6. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Fused Ignition Switch Output
DR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE - SERVICE INFORMATION 21 - 1443
and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is
greater than 5 ohms, replace the TRS.
7. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Transmission
Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 522.2 ohms. If the resistance is not correct,
replace the TRS.
8. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 206.2 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
9. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 108.6 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
10. With the manual lever in the DRIVE position (the DRIVE position is with the manual lever moved three detents
forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX
and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 59.9 ohms. If the
resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
11. With the manual lever in the SECOND position (the SECOND position is with the manual lever moved one
detent rearward of the full forward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 31.9 ohms. If the resistance is not
correct, replace the TRS.
12. With the manual lever in the LOW position (the LOW position is with the manual lever moved to the full forward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed
pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 13.7 ohms. If the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:20 AM
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Hi what is strange is the the gauge swipe test all the gear selector lights should be on with a square lighted box around them, so I am thinking their could be a problem in the gauge cluster. It should pass that test weather not the cable or the range selector is working correct or not.

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rghavana View Post
If you are sure rooster comb and detent ball/ spring good
then I would double check TRS by
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TRS)
NOTE: For all circuit identification in the following steps, Refer to the appropriate Wiring Information.
1. Raise vehicle on suitable hoist.
2. Disconnect the vehicle’s shift cable from the manual lever.
3. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense pin of the TRS and the transmission
case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
4. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense
pin of the TRS and the transmission case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
5. If the resistance is greater than 5 ohms in either of the previous steps, check for a dirty contact between the tip
of the TRS rod and the valve body manual lever. If the contact is OK, replace the TRS.
6. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Fused Ignition Switch Output
DR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE - SERVICE INFORMATION 21 - 1443
and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is
greater than 5 ohms, replace the TRS.
7. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Transmission
Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 522.2 ohms. If the resistance is not correct,
replace the TRS.
8. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 206.2 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
9. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 108.6 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
10. With the manual lever in the DRIVE position (the DRIVE position is with the manual lever moved three detents
forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX
and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 59.9 ohms. If the
resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
11. With the manual lever in the SECOND position (the SECOND position is with the manual lever moved one
detent rearward of the full forward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 31.9 ohms. If the resistance is not
correct, replace the TRS.
12. With the manual lever in the LOW position (the LOW position is with the manual lever moved to the full forward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed
pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 13.7 ohms. If the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
Thank you, I will try this as well.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWR View Post
Hi what is strange is the the gauge swipe test all the gear selector lights should be on with a square lighted box around them, so I am thinking their could be a problem in the gauge cluster. It should pass that test weather not the cable or the range selector is working correct or not.
It could be. The cluster is used and from another truck, my truck came from Alberta Canada and I had to get a USA cluster for it. All this started when I got hit and had my rear bumper pulled off 5 years ago. All the lights on the cluster flickered and my door locks went crazy (unlocked and re-locked 3 times). I have zero codes being thrown so I am at a loose.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:01 PM
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The linkage is likely fine if it displays park and goes into park and other gears mechanically.

The neutral safety switch is a sensor on the transmission that has a plunger that follows the rooster comb detents. It is held on by two small torx screws. One of these screws provides the ground return using the sensor body. This ground is needed to furnish a set voltage the cluster can read to make the right dash display. The neutral safety switch is cheap to try and replace as a fix. Make sure the mounting surface on the tranny is clean in order to make a good electrical connect to the sensor body.

The neutral safety switch is resistor tree, where the plunger/rooster comb selects the "tap" (which resistor in the tree) is going to send a signal voltage to the cluster. There's also a plastic part on the rooster comb that could be damaged too. I think it provides less friction than having the sensor plunger just ride on the metal rooster comb.

Also there is a ground strap from the rear back of the engine to the drivers tunnel heat shield that is an important system ground connection.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:04 PM
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Yes, the following is right, the TRS (transmission range sensor) is what I call the neutral safety switch.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rghavana View Post
If you are sure rooster comb and detent ball/ spring good
then I would double check TRS by
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TRS)
NOTE: For all circuit identification in the following steps, Refer to the appropriate Wiring Information.
1. Raise vehicle on suitable hoist.
2. Disconnect the vehicle’s shift cable from the manual lever.
3. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense pin of the TRS and the transmission
case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
4. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Park/Neutral Position Sense
pin of the TRS and the transmission case. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
5. If the resistance is greater than 5 ohms in either of the previous steps, check for a dirty contact between the tip
of the TRS rod and the valve body manual lever. If the contact is OK, replace the TRS.
6. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Fused Ignition Switch Output
DR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE - SERVICE INFORMATION 21 - 1443
and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is
greater than 5 ohms, replace the TRS.
7. With the manual lever in the PARK position (the PARK position is with the manual lever moved to the full rearward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Transmission
Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 522.2 ohms. If the resistance is not correct,
replace the TRS.
8. With the manual lever in the REVERSE position (the REVERSE position is with the manual lever moved one
detent forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 206.2 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
9. With the manual lever in the NEUTRAL position (the NEUTRAL position is with the manual lever moved two
detents forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 108.6 ohms. If
the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
10. With the manual lever in the DRIVE position (the DRIVE position is with the manual lever moved three detents
forward of the full rearward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX
and the Transmission Range Sensor 5V Supply pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 59.9 ohms. If the
resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.
11. With the manual lever in the SECOND position (the SECOND position is with the manual lever moved one
detent rearward of the full forward position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor
MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 31.9 ohms. If the resistance is not
correct, replace the TRS.
12. With the manual lever in the LOW position (the LOW position is with the manual lever moved to the full forward
position), measure the resistance between the Transmission Range Sensor MUX and the Back-up Lamp feed
pins of the TRS. The resistance should be 13.7 ohms. If the resistance is not correct, replace the TRS.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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The linkage is likely fine if it displays park and goes into park and other gears mechanically.

The neutral safety switch is a sensor on the transmission that has a plunger that follows the rooster comb detents. It is held on by two small torx screws. One of these screws provides the ground return using the sensor body. This ground is needed to furnish a set voltage the cluster can read to make the right dash display. The neutral safety switch is cheap to try and replace as a fix. Make sure the mounting surface on the tranny is clean in order to make a good electrical connect to the sensor body.

The neutral safety switch is resistor tree, where the plunger/rooster comb selects the "tap" (which resistor in the tree) is going to send a signal voltage to the cluster. There's also a plastic part on the rooster comb that could be damaged too. I think it provides less friction than having the sensor plunger just ride on the metal rooster comb.

Also there is a ground strap from the rear back of the engine to the drivers tunnel heat shield that is an important system ground connection.
I did get a replacement plunger from O'Reilly's and I got neutral but Park and 2nd would not light up any more so I put the old one back in. I will look to see see if the grounding strap is there or not and see how dirty the connection is to the plunger.

Thank you for the help.

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 10:41 AM
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This is the part you need:


I replace a lot of these, and always keep them in stock. Do not use an aftermarket. Those things are bad right out of the box more often than not. I honestly do not know how they get away with selling that crap.

It is also possible that the plastic cam on the rooster comb is worn or damaged, but given the fact that the "Park" position is all the way in, and the "1" position is all the way out, I would not suspect that. The plastic cam is replaceable, too, if needed. I keep those around here all the time as well.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 11:44 AM
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Aftermarket range selector are crap i agree with that!

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic View Post
This is the part you need: https://www.amazon.com/DODGE-Neutral.../dp/B00LOWRHZE I replace a lot of these, and always keep them in stock. Do not use an aftermarket. Those things are bad right out of the box more often than not. I honestly do not know how they get away with selling that crap.

It is also possible that the plastic cam on the rooster comb is worn or damaged, but given the fact that the "Park" position is all the way in, and the "1" position is all the way out, I would not suspect that. The plastic cam is replaceable, too, if needed. I keep those around here all the time as well.
He's right.

Right now I have the R light out on mine. I suspect the aftermarket part, and have bought an OEM one from the Steelership to try out. I have tried a number of aftermarket ones over the years and they don't seem to hold up.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic View Post
This is the part you need: https://www.amazon.com/DODGE-Neutral.../dp/B00LOWRHZE I replace a lot of these, and always keep them in stock. Do not use an aftermarket. Those things are bad right out of the box more often than not. I honestly do not know how they get away with selling that crap.

It is also possible that the plastic cam on the rooster comb is worn or damaged, but given the fact that the "Park" position is all the way in, and the "1" position is all the way out, I would not suspect that. The plastic cam is replaceable, too, if needed. I keep those around here all the time as well.
Thank you for the link, I will be ordering one next week.

Where is the plastic cam and the rooster comb? Sorry if it is a dumb question, just do know where they are located.

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