Cant get my wheel hubs off. HELP! (Video) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Cant get my wheel hubs off. HELP! (Video)

One of my bearings and both U joints on the front axle are shot on my 2004 2500 Diesel 6Spd. I found this video on how to get at the U joints and he ran into the same problem I am having. My wheel bearing unit is not coming off the axle. When pounding the hub, my bearing is starting to come apart instead of coming out as a single unit. Pounding partly threaded bolts from the back isnt working either!

Here is the instruction video:
https://youtu.be/Hl5v2l_7xJ4?t=156

Here is my video of what is happening with my truck. Short of taking a Plasma Cutter to this thing, what the hell can I do??

https://youtu.be/bv5hGuNnXuE

I'm currently trying to hit it with a torch, but that's not doing anything...

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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:55 PM
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Use a 27-32mm socket placed between the ear of stub shaft axle u joint oriented horizontally & the axle housing.
With the truck running, have a friend turn the steering wheel to use power steering to hydraulically press it out. Work it back & forth. Have friend crank on steering wheel hard. Might have to give it some hammer blows while applying pressure.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:17 PM
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Cutting torch and dynamite...Stand back and watch the show!
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03 QCLB- 19 to 25 mpg with electric parts, and engine mods....
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:34 PM
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What Rayvin said. That method has worked for me on my 2nd and 3rd gens. The hubs are a pain!

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:46 PM
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When you do finally get it off put some real truck hubs on instead of those failure prone unit bearings.
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03 QCLB- 19 to 25 mpg with electric parts, and engine mods....
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator1 View Post
When you do finally get it off put some real truck hubs on instead of those failure prone unit bearings.
Someone on FB suggested manual locker hubs. Although I dig the idea on some level, losing in-cab switching sounds like a downgrade. Also, the hubs on Amazon were like $1700!! Which sounds outrageously expensive for what you get.




Again, links to "rear truck hubs" would help your argument.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyson031781 View Post
Someone on FB suggested manual locker hubs. Although I dig the idea on some level, losing in-cab switching sounds like a downgrade. Also, the hubs on Amazon were like $1700!! Which sounds outrageously expensive for what you get.

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA.../dp/B0078U9ZEM

Again, links to "rear truck hubs" would help your argument.
I can engage my locking hubs while I drive... and $1700 is pretty cheap for a part that won't fail, leaving you stranded, or dead...

03 QCLB- 19 to 25 mpg with electric parts, and engine mods....
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator1 View Post
I can engage my locking hubs while I drive... and $1700 is pretty cheap for a part that won't fail, leaving you stranded, or dead...
Just dropped Dynaloc hubs on. Amazing. If I anticipate snowy or icy conditions, if I want, I can lock the hubs and drive around with the front axle live but not engaged to the transfer case like Dodge designed (which is stupid as it wears out the driveline and creates quite a bit of drag), and then switch to 4wd in the cab with the dial. When I don't anticipate needing 4wd, unlock hubs and enjoy easier steering and much better (at least for me) fuel mileage. Plus, beefy bearings that won't fail. I've had two unit-bearings fail on me a a couple year period. Not worth it. Do it once, do it right.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 08:04 AM
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Rent , Buy, borrow or make a puller.
I used OTC 7901 Front Hub Puller for 4WD Vehicles
https://www.otctools.com/products/fr...4wd-vehicles-0
cheaper then replacing steering components when you damage them, using it as press

04 QCSB HO Automatic
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 12:13 PM
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The hub puller is a good idea but I think the issue is that the puller puts outward force on the wheel mounting surface by bolting onto the lug nut studs. This would continue to pull his unit bearing apart. But it's no big deal if you pull that unit bearing in two... heck it opens up a little room for you to work

This guy too had a LOT of problems getting that hub assembly off:


He eventually gets it with lots of hammering of chisels into the interface between knuckle and hub.

If you do use heat, heat the knuckle portion as it surrounds the hub and when it expands it should increase the diameter loosening it's grip on the hub.

Heat, impact/hammering and chiseling are probably your best options at this point.

When you do get it done and put it back together... anti-sieze my friend... lots of anti-sieze.

I just replaced my u-joints this past weekend and practically pulled everything off by hand after unbolting. My truck goes offroad quite a bit and those parts are often under water + all the bad conditions winter throws at it in the midwest. I anti-sieze everything like this and it really makes a difference the next time you have to work on it.

Sincere good luck to you friend!
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, that puller would just spilt my hubs. I put a 6t puller on and tried the steering trick. It took two people, but we got it! On the second one, my 6T puller exploded! What an absolute nightmare!!

As the second axle came out, I walked over to the laptop and placed the $1700 order for the manual hubs.

Terrible OEM design all around!!

Now I'm ripping into my rear end and have questions there, but will put into it's own thread under non-powertrain.

Thank you all for the help and support!
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:15 PM
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You'll be so glad you did once you get it changed over!

03 QCLB- 19 to 25 mpg with electric parts, and engine mods....
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