Lack of Power while Towing - New Tranny - Page 3 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
3rd Gen. Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:59 AM
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I did not read all posts. But you need a trani rebuild and/or up grade. It has a bad(worn out ) torque convertor or clutches or both(burnt and metal). Then add power or re-gear.


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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 03:05 AM
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As cerb said, test WG controller by crimping off the WG hose on front of the turbo and try drive test again. Post results. My guess, either WG leaking off, 15 year old boost hoses worn out and leaking or worn out mechanical section of FCA causing under fueling.

Also dump a triple dose of Power Service Diesel Kleen and a qt of Walmart TC-W3 outboard lube oil in full tank of fuel. Take it out and try to pull the guts out of it after you get the EGT gauge on it, keep EGTs under 1300d F. Best done with high wide heavy load behind. Burns the carbon out of cylinders and off injector nozzles. Gummed up carboned injectors cause poor fueling which causes low boost. Will be lots of carbon buildup from that low boost poor fueling.

Only towing 6k behind that 4.5 325 hp running right and built tranny will get you all the CHP blue lights behind you and more than you want up any pass in Cali. Don't even need the Smarty, adds to tickets numbers.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:27 AM
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That is more that is more than enough boost to make good power, once you get past 12 psi boost it is all about the fueling curve. Unless you are rolling black smoke more boost is not going to help.

Like I said before, crimp the boost reference hose and see what you get for boost. Stock 325 should be able to make and hold 35 psi with the hose crimped, 40 psi at read line with enough load.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steelhead1 View Post
As cerb said, test WG controller by crimping off the WG hose on front of the turbo and try drive test again. Post results. My guess, either WG leaking off, 15 year old boost hoses worn out and leaking or worn out mechanical section of FCA causing under fueling.

Also dump a triple dose of Power Service Diesel Kleen and a qt of Walmart TC-W3 outboard lube oil in full tank of fuel. Take it out and try to pull the guts out of it after you get the EGT gauge on it, keep EGTs under 1300d F. Best done with high wide heavy load behind. Burns the carbon out of cylinders and off injector nozzles. Gummed up carboned injectors cause poor fueling which causes low boost. Will be lots of carbon buildup from that low boost poor fueling.

Only towing 6k behind that 4.5 325 hp running right and built tranny will get you all the CHP blue lights behind you and more than you want up any pass in Cali. Don't even need the Smarty, adds to tickets numbers.
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Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
That is more that is more than enough boost to make good power, once you get past 12 psi boost it is all about the fueling curve. Unless you are rolling black smoke more boost is not going to help.

Like I said before, crimp the boost reference hose and see what you get for boost. Stock 325 should be able to make and hold 35 psi with the hose crimped, 40 psi at read line with enough load.
Thanks everyone. I will try the hose and possibly the fuel additives this weekend.

I did do seafoam in the fuel filter when I bought the truck a year ago. I then imediatly changes the fuel filter
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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So I tried a few things this weekend and neither made a difference.

First I pinched off the wastegate activator hose with vise-grips and re-installed all the air hoses and tested. One a side note, I forgot to hook back up my mass air flow sensor prior to testing and 2 things happened... Lol. I got a check engine light on (I read about how I have to cycle start the truck 9 times with the issue resolved before it will self clear) and the second thing was a complete and total lack of ANY power! Crazy how important that sensor was... So once I installed and drove again, while the power was better than before I pinched off the hose... The problem of fluttering boost while flooring persisted. And I still was unable to get anywhere near 40PSI.

Second I removed the FCA and cleaned it before reinstalling. Once again nothing changed, not even subtility.

Any other ideas before I just end up taking it I. To a shop and pay $159 /hr to have them run diagnostics on it?
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:58 PM
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Did you measure the lift pump pressure into the CP3 with a pressure gauge, hammer down full load on road minimum 3 psi.

Did you get your fuel rail pressure gauge installed?
What's the WOT rail pressure reading hammering it on a long freeway on ramp or up hill?
Should see a steady 20,000 psi+ until it shifts.

FCA is a wear service replacement item, no definitive testing except with high end scan tool and Mopar Cummins software package, replace only.

Pull the outlet hose off the turbo and spin the blade, should spin freely with no drag and continue to spin. NO dirt or oil. Man be just heavily coked up exhaust side turbine and/or bearings

If good
then
I'd do a boost leak test, may only leak at higher pressures, yours looks like about 30 psi leak defect opens up. Instructions and pictures in several threads this forum. Parts from Home Depot Lowes.
The OEM boost hoses flex dozens of times per mile especially towing heavy. 14 year old boost hoses millions of flexes. Tire sidewalls wear out, hoses wear out. Small tears are difficult to see. OEM boost hoses take a heat pounding in Central Valley Cali. If you have to replace, go with the silicone upgrades.
Another sneaker leak is the insulator gasket under the grid heater on intake

Run the error codes trick, engine off, key on>off three times, last time leave on, codes will come up in odometer window, write down. finishes with DONE

Dodge Mopar dealers are the worse places to buy parts or get service on the Cummins. They lost their real Cummins techs to the higher paid commercial diesel market, their parts are Cummins with a 150% market.

Cummins parts counter or online Geno's Garage for parts.
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