Join Date: Nov 2017
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2005 Ram 3500 Dilema
I apologize for this being so long, but I figured the more information given, the better the chances of someone knowing what is wrong and how to fix it. I am getting pretty desperate for a fix, as this all started five weeks ago and I had to have my wife drive 150 miles to get me back home for the holiday.
My 2005 Ram 3500 with 5.9 Cummins, which I have owned for three years, has been a great truck... until recently. While towing a new camper trailer in the rain, I actually at first thought the rear wheels were losing traction when I accelerated. After stopping and checking things over, we resumed our trip, but after a while it began acting strange again; bumping, thuds, and feeling as if it was slipping (tires or transmission?), and felt as though the engine was trying to run backward a time or two with very hard lunges. After a few more stops, we were able to get to our destination. I felt like it may have been a towing issue [I have used it to tow many times before, but this was maiden voyage for the camper]. Anyway, we attempted to take the truck (without trailer) to nearby town but barely made it. I had to throw it in neutral at a stoplight because it did not want to stop without killing the engine. Smoke billowed out exhaust, it bucked hard against braking, and it made loud rattling noises directly underneath us.
It was Saturday and repair shops were closed so we left it at the local Dodge dealership. Monday morning I was there at opening and gave them my best description of what it had been doing — It really is difficult to explain just what ALL was going on with it. The dealer technicians said the only active code it had was for cam sensor, which they replaced. But, $290 later, it was still just as “sick” as when it limped in. They said that there were scan code alerts that indicated some sort of electrical anomalies and that it needed fuel system (pressure, etc) checks, but they couldn’t perform the tests because my truck has an aftermarket fuel system whose lines are too large a diameter for their equipment to connect to. They suggested I take it to someone else.
My brother took me to get the truck and we started on our way to a mechanic he has used for years. We drove about six or seven miles (at 55 mph and under) with absolutely NO signs or symptoms of any problems. I decided to take it back to my property where the camper was left, since his mechanic was booked up for a while anyway. We didn’t drive another five miles before the same issues began again. Only slightly at first, but when we got up to 65 mph on the highway, the problems were back full swing. When I slowed to go down the forest lane to the camper, it died (abruptly) five times before I got it the 1/4 mile. It remains this way to date.
The truck will crank easily, run at idle for several minutes without any (noticeable) sign of problems, then suddenly die. When attempting to drive it, it will sometimes do absolutely nothing when you push the "gas" pedal. It will die abruptly while driving, but has always started right back up by throwing it into neutral and turning the key. It will crank/start right back up immediately 95% of the time.
I bought an OBD scan tool and it stil shows cam sensor error/alerts. It also shows five codes pertaining to other sensor problems; all of which indicate shorts, voltage issues, etc. I have no idea how to checkout the code errors or how to begin finding what is REALLY causing the problems. I will be extremely grateful for any help or suggestions, as this is my main means of transportation and though I enjoy camping, I don’t like being trapped in the woods having to wait for someone to take me for everything I need.
I would like to note something that may or may not be related. After having changed tires about a year ago, I began to notice a slight vibration (which I assumed was in the front end and possibly due to unbalanced tires) when traveling at speeds between 65 and 70 mph. The vibration got a bit worse at times, though sometimes was barely noticeable. I attributed the differences to different road conditions. But now, due to the way the truck vibrated when this problem went full bore, it makes me wonder if the two could somehow be connected?
Also notable: I have an ordinary "key"-- no "fob"; the key will slide out of the ignition switch with no problem in ANY position; there are notable electrical issues, such as, radio volume has a mind of it's own, so do the windshield wipers.
P0237 ($10) — Turbocharger / Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low.
P0652 ($10) — Sensor Reference Voltage B Circuit Low
P2127 ($10) — Throttle/ Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Low
P2121 ($10) — Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor / Switch D Circuit Range/Performance
P0193 ($10) — Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High
P0341 ($10) — Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor.
P0335 ($10) — Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
In live Data mode, FRP is running at 6500 to 6900 at idle. Around 9000 to 9400 at 1,500 rpm. Over 13,000 at 1,800 rpm.
ABS returned “4230”