Front and rear diff fluid change on a 2007 5.9 qcsb - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Front and rear diff fluid change on a 2007 5.9 qcsb

Went to the dealer and had a oil and fuel filter change. Was waiting for my truck to get done and the service manager came out and showed me my rear differential drain plug. It had all little metal shavings around it. I know the rear plug is going to have some metal shavings on it from being a new rear when its breaking in.He said the rear diff and front diff should be changed at 15,000 miles. I bought the truck brand new and its never been off road. Cant see it needing a diff change so soon. I was thinking more like 50 thousand miles change all the fluids. I only have 30,000 miles on the truck now. He said dodge rears are a weak link. I have a 2500 5.9 4&4 qcsb. What would you guys recommend on rear and front diff change. Would you use mopar fluids also? Thanks


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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 10:48 AM
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id run fully synthetic of your choice do it yourself too and save a ton of money it is about as easy as it gets.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglestrokermotor View Post
Went to the dealer and had a oil and fuel filter change. Was waiting for my truck to get done and the service manager came out and showed me my rear differential drain plug. It had all little metal shavings around it. I know the rear plug is going to have some metal shavings on it from being a new rear when its breaking in.He said the rear diff and front diff should be changed at 15,000 miles. I bought the truck brand new and its never been off road. Cant see it needing a diff change so soon. I was thinking more like 50 thousand miles change all the fluids. I only have 30,000 miles on the truck now. He said dodge rears are a weak link. I have a 2500 5.9 4&4 qcsb. What would you guys recommend on rear and front diff change. Would you use mopar fluids also? Thanks
Not true, these rears are plenty robust. It's not uncommon to have the metal fuzz on the first change. Now big particles that's another story. The 15,000 mile change interval is a severe duty schedule recommendation.
---
The rears specify syn fluid anyway. Any good brand should be fine. Some folks use the 90W-140 weight but I think it's overkill unless you're at max GCVW.
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Unless your towing real heavy I don't think the 15k interval is required. I decided I would do a 25,000 mile span on my trucks using the regular wieght synthetic stuff 80W-90.

------> Oh yeah, there isn't a differential drain plug unless the previous owner added a aftermarket rear diff cover. You have to remove the rear diff cover to drain the fluid on a stock unit.


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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 12:05 PM
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Most fall into severe service... do people always go by it? No... Unless your towing alot, driving in the city, hard on the throttle with those 35's i would just change it every 30k. Use a good synthetic 75-90w NOT anything else unless your sled pulling or DD towing with the thing. the thicker fluids make it harder to reach the outer bearings in your axle and will cause them to burn up. it has happened to me before. Dont forget to add 4oz of mopar limited slip additive to the rear if your axle has anti spin. lift the rear of your truck so the wheels are off the ground. with the t-case/trans in neutral spin the rear wheels. if both turn the same direction you need additive. if the spin opposite directions you do not need additive. The brand of fluid is up to you, i like royal purple, or amsoil, but we use valvoline synthetic at work with no issues. hope this helps. btw podiesel is right their is no drain plug on factory covers. Also the fluid i specified applies to American axles, ALWAYS verify what you have in your truck before just dumping and filling the fluids. Never go by what someone else claims you may have. Just check before you do anything.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 12:18 PM
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if you have the aam axle its a helical gear not clutch pack you sholdnt need the additive

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 01:20 PM
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Thats why i said verify what axle you have. The service information of dealer connect says to use 4oz of additive if axle is equipped with anti spin. Either way if you add additive its not going to hurt it if you dont need it.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 07:31 PM
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i have a anti spin and dont run the additive on another note if you run it do not get any on your hands it stinks way worse than the gear lube youll be putting in.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 11:06 AM
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Straight off the back of a Mopar lsd additive. If you have Anti spin you NEED to add this

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 11:21 AM
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Straight off the back of a Mopar lsd additive. If you have Anti spin you NEED to add this
The Sure Grip and anti-spin diffs are in the 1/2 tons not the HD trucks. The LSD used in the AAM 11.5 axle does not require any additive, only a GL-5 rated fluid.

The first change should be done at 15k to get any shavings out from break in period. After that, 30-50k depending on how hard you use the truck. You will see the fluid start getting dark once it is contaminated.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 11:48 AM
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Not trying to step on anyones toes. Just want to show you what I found. This is the build sheet showing my 3/4 HD is in fact equipped with a anti spin differential. I even included the VIN for ref. Its your call on weather or not to use it. They say to use it in ALL diffs equipped with anti spin. Last time i decided not to listen to them i replaced bearings. This is just MY experience

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006_5.9 View Post


Not trying to step on anyones toes. Just want to show you what I found. This is the build sheet showing my 3/4 HD is in fact equipped with a anti spin differential. I even included the VIN for ref. Its your call on weather or not to use it. They say to use it in ALL diffs equipped with anti spin. Last time i decided not to listen to them i replaced bearings. This is just MY experience
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Stuff View Post
If you have the diesel, you've got the AAM (American axle manufacturer) 11.5" rear end. If it has a limited slip, it's a helical worm gear style. No clutches, No cones. Period. It works by building fluid pressure within the 2 helical worm gears. This is the ONLY differential made for this rear end except for the open diff. It does not use limited slip additive either. There is nothing electrical about it. You might have the electronic tranfer case (push button 4wd) as opposed to manual lever on the floor. Chrysler service manual says to use 75W-95 synthetic gear lube for all 11.5 rear ends. :thumbsup
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...id-choice.html

QUOTE=Michigandodgeguy;5516991] you wont need a additive.. ive never used one, i think most synthetic fluids are good enough lubrication for what you will ever need. The limited slip that comes with these things (if you paid for it) is a joke.. just garbage.. I dont think it matters if youre limited slip or not, youre still going to get all pressure on one side and basically none on the other if you are in slippery conditions.. not to put it down, but i am disappointed with the limited slip.. and as far as i know there are no additives that will help that. ive researched a cure to make the limited slip work better, and the only option ive found is a rear end locker system.

hope that answers the question [/QUOTE]

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07...gear-lube.html

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 12:20 PM
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dodge rears are a weak link???! since when?! have you seen our axles? the diff is absolutely massive and strong as hell

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