Solving the blown fuse problem for e-fans - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Solving the blown fuse problem for e-fans

I've chatted with a few people who have mentioned the reset-able fuse that goes in-line with the e-fans goes bad after a while. I dont have that type of fuse and use just a regular 30A fuse. In looking for a way to solve this problem I came across a current in-rush current limiter (see links below). This device should fix the fuse problem for us e-fan users. The way it works, in a nutshell is it provides a greater resistance at higher currents. The way I understand it, heat is what blows the fuse and it takes a certain amount of time for that heat to weaken the fuse element for it to melt. The P/N I am going after should solve this problem. I will update this thread as I go.


FWIW, my fans draw 28~29A on hi (when AC kicks on, goes straight to hi). I have 2 feed wires for each fan, one off each battery.


Websites:
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ele...alculator.html

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1025-ND/749865

https://www.ametherm.com/blog/inrush...inrush-current


Another way to fix this is to kick on the low speed prior to the high speed. The low speed would need to be in an on state long enough to spin up the fan, maybe 1 second is long enough. My original thought was to use a delay timer to control that sequence. Then I found the above solution.




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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Update:... already.... I contacted Ametherm about this and already have a reply, they are going to provide a recommended P/N.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Another update:

P/N MS35 1R040 should work OK provided the startup current is not choked out. Testing will need to be done.

P/N MS35 0R550 has less startup resistance and may be needed if the above does not work.

Getting samples of both.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:56 PM
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My flexallite draw 36 Amps. I'm using a standard marine 50 amp breaker instead of a self resetting style. Working well.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:19 PM
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my Brother runs e fans on his truck and we put one of these in.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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These parts are $10ea and are designed for this problem. By going big on the fuse/circuit breaker you run the risk of melting a wire creating a short and possibly having a fire. I speak from experience with the melted wire & fire part.

The quick fix is to put the 40A fuse in there which I will do if needed before getting parts in hand.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broaner View Post
My flexallite draw 36 Amps. I'm using a standard marine 50 amp breaker instead of a self resetting style. Working well.
thats 18A per fan right?

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
These parts are $10ea and are designed for this problem. By going big on the fuse/circuit breaker you run the risk of melting a wire creating a short and possibly having a fire. I speak from experience with the melted wire & fire part.

The quick fix is to put the 40A fuse in there which I will do if needed before getting parts in hand.
We didnít use that one it was a example but looks just like it and was a 50amp. Itís the initial start up amp draw that blows fuses usually.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02smokin View Post
We didnít use that one it was a example but looks just like it and was a 50amp. Itís the initial start up amp draw that blows fuses usually.
Yeah understood, i did not have a peak hold function on my clam amp meter to find out what the peak current was, i suppose i could have hooked up a sense resistor and measured it along with the duration.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:15 PM
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I don’t have any fuses , just strait off the battery to 2 grid heater relays than to the fans .
A/c triggers the low side ,temp probe triggers the high side .
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 10:13 AM
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steve,
did you try slow blow fuses?
ANL's are good
Bussmann (BP/FMX- 30>60 amp Female Maxi Fuses also work

Dangerous to use automatic reset circuit breakers in a vehicle high current electrical system such as the grid heaters. Engine fires with pressurized diesel fuels burn forever until the battery goes dead or tank runs dry.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
These parts are $10ea and are designed for this problem. By going big on the fuse/circuit breaker you run the risk of melting a wire creating a short and possibly having a fire. I speak from experience with the melted wire & fire part.

The quick fix is to put the 40A fuse in there which I will do if needed before getting parts in hand.


Your running too small of a fuse, thatís why itís blowing. Rule of thumb is fuses should be 125% of amp draw to protect the wire from melting (assuming the correct wire to load was used)



Solving the blown fuse problem for e-fans-11484fd6-b8d6-4153-b4a7-fe5e6cc1ac25-94703-00002f06448f9ea6.jpg


https://www.bluesea.com/support/arti...t_Installation



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