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Dana 80 Restack 2

146K views 201 replies 84 participants last post by  roostonu 
#1 · (Edited)
Here we go guys, restack your DANA 80 and get rid of that stupid 1 wheel peel.
Remove the spare.

Remove the 8 (14mm) outer axle bolts

Pull the axle about 1/2 way out.

Remove the 10 (14mm) cover bolts

Drain the fluid

Remove the bearing cap bolts



Remove the carrier.

Keep track of the bearing cups and shims, keep them on the same sides they came from.


Remove the 8 (14mm) carrier bolts


Seperate the unit, Dont lose anything, keep track of how it comes out.


This is what they look like factory.


This is how you stack them the right way.


Restack both sides, put the carrier back together, put the unit back in the housing, torque the bearing caps, double check to make sure you put the shims back in, clean the cover gasket area, put a small bead of black RTV on the housing, replace the cover.

Cover the outer axle gasket with black RTV on both sides of the gasket, replace the bolts, torque them down.





Dont forget to fill the rear-end back up with the recommend fluid, and friction modifier, and your done.
I hope this helps with any first timers with doubts, and for the rest of you guys, dont critize too much, I put alot of effort into this project just to post it up on here. Thanks guys.
 
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#46 ·
I don't believe the front axles have limited slip. It is usually only in the rear axles.

:flag1:
 
#47 ·
Anyone that needs a parts breakdown with part numbers for the Dana 70 or Dana 80 see: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-5DSD.pdf

It is a 57 page pdf file and covers 1999 to 2001 Dodge Spicer (Dana) Drivetrain Components and has a lot of good info. Other year model are available on Dana website.

Great write-up and photos, thanks.
 
#49 ·
I belive i have a open diff in my truck but im not entirely sure... Can somebody help me find out if I do.
 
#50 ·
I wish I could tell you an easy way, you may find the sticker in the glove box that says "anti-spin" diff, or something like that. Short of taking the cover off and looking in the diff, I really dont know an easier, for sure way to check it.?
 
#51 ·
jack up the rear of the truck. put in neutral, spin one tire. if the opposite tire spins in the same direction you have a limited slip. if it spins in the opposite direction, you have an open diff.
 
#52 · (Edited)
Look at your differential cover. There should be a tag on one of the bolts that says what it is. All Danna 80s are Limited slip differential. If the tag says Model 80 or 286-RBI You have Limited slip differential.
I hope that helps. JJ
 
#53 ·
I have heard that not all dana 80s are limited slip
 
#54 ·
From what I know, they are. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.
You can also spin your tires like yeahkkyle said.
JJ
 
#55 ·
I just did the test and I have a open diff. Really sucks knowing that... now I have to decide what limited slip to get and what it all takes to put a new one in. Some advice from people would be great. I just wanna know whats the best out there for limited slip. I have heard that the yukon diffs are good. Also do I have to buy a rebuild kit to put a new diff in.
 
#111 · (Edited)
Great thread!! I'm getting ready to replace the gears in my 70 which has an open diff and have been searching for a lot of the info that I found here. I even tired different search words for a Dana 70 and only found this by looking at another thread that directed me to here! Glad I found it! :party018:


I've opened up rears that I thought had open diffs that turned out to be worn out LSD's and just needed a rebuild. Also, the factory LSD of this type is a very good unit and is called Power Lock. Chrysler use a few different names and Sure Grip and Track Loc being a couple. The 8 3/4 used the Power Loc and the Borg Warner spin resistant and the Dana 60 used the Power Loc. There are a few differences between the smaller PL's and the 80 I noticed but nothing major. No reason to spend the money on new one when you can probably find a PL in a wrecking yard if you have the time.

Sorry, this is wrong. i have a dana 80 and it is most certianly an open diff. opening the cover has verified this.
Did the 80 ever come with a Track Loc anti spin. If so, they look like an open diff but upon closer examination, you might see clutch packs out board of the side gears or the splined spiders. Most call all 4 gears spiders and so does the parts department at the stealership but the ones that the axles spline to are actually called the differential side gears.


Ok yea I've seen that on the sticker in my glovebox. Just didn't know that was dodge's name for posi-trac
The term 'posi-trac' is GM's term.....even Ford has their own terms for the. Limited slip differential all have their own names from the different manufacturers.
 
#56 ·
just wondering if anyone else has the same issue with this as me. I did the restack a couple days ago after reading this post and it deffinently spins both tires now. Works awsome, but when I go around turns even slight turns I feel a grinding feeling and can hear it with the window down. Going straight its fine. Is this normal after the restack?
 
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#58 ·
What fluid did you put back into the rear end after you did the restack? If it did not have the proper modifier, it will make noise when turning and not work properly.

:flag:
 
#59 ·
I put Lucas High performance 80w 90 in it. The bottle said it was for limited slip diffs. ?
 
#60 ·
Saying for limited slip does not mean the additive is present. MY suggest is drop two containers of LS additive in immediatelly and hope you no scored the discs. Now we know reason dana no addemble clutches even. They sensitive as all get out.
 
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#61 ·
I have read some more about this on the net. Seems like Dodge stacked them even like that on bigger trucks, like bread vans. On our trucks the back end is to light. So they stacked them the way they did. I think my clutch pack is worn, So restacking should be ok. I plan on restacking after the snow melts. Has anyone else restacked theres??? How is it holding up??? What about tire wear???
 
#63 ·
I checked on the gear oil and it said on the bottle that no special additives were needed. It is starting to quiet down some and posi is still workin good. Maybe it will be fine.
 
#64 ·
To shed some light on a Dana 70: I recently tore my Dana 70 apart to replace the clutch packs which I somehow managed to break. I used a power-lok rebuild kit from East Coast Gear Supply to fix it. The clutches in 70's are already alternately stacked and I believe there would be a decrease in performance if the clutches were restacked in a different way in a 70. The kit I installed is working great! If you are going to tear down your rear end whether it be a 70 or a 80 be advised the carrier is heavy.
 
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#165 ·
Any other 70's out there been restacked? I definately have an anti spin 70, but somethings not working cuz regardless of conditions I only spin one tire. I hate to spend $350 on a rebuild if I can just restack them.

Thanks
 
#65 ·
That makes sence to me. Both dana 70's I have had almost always spun posi. When I broke the pinion in my last 70 I found an 80 and it needed the restack
 
#67 ·
This is really cool!!! I might have to check mine sometime and do it!:blues:

Most expensive part is buying the gear lube and additive!:doh:
 
#70 ·
What is all this talk of additive!
I was told only gl-5 synthetic 75w90 by my diesel shop, but after i was told about ls additive, i decided to visit chrysler. according to chrysler, no ls additive is needed, just synthetic 75w90. they also tried to sell me some... at 48 dollars a liter. hahaha
 
#69 ·
If ya want your clutches to hold better mix water in with the gear oil..... Then run it about 300 miles in a straight line then get of the interstate and make a turn... LOL that rear end will hold nice and tight then break loose.


nice write up.
 
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#73 ·
this should work on all dana 80's correct? not just the ones with the anti spin diff from the factory?
 
#75 ·
1. Its called a limit slip differential. NOT trying to be a dick, just trying to keep terminalogy as correct as possible. Wrong terminalogy causes more confusion then anything else I think.
2. The purpose of the restack, is to organise the clutches (which are part of the limit slip design) in a way that allowes the clutches to engage properly.
There is no clutches in an open differential.
 
#74 ·
I believe it will work on all Dana 80's with anti-spin from the factory, but will not work unless it has anti-spin.

:flag:
 
#77 ·
Anyone know if this stack will work with the newer AAM 11.5" rear axles?

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I've never broken down into my AAM axles yet to find out what they're all about. Truck only has 40K on it....

PM'ing me would be a better way to let me know, since I don't frequent this forum much.

Thanks in advance.
 
#80 ·
No, the AAM axle in the 3rd gens use a desing similar to the True trac using torsional force on helical gears to provide the anti-spin/limited slip function. If stuck and spinning, to place more more torsional force on the gears and more torque transfer to non spinning wheel, try slightly dragging the brakes. Since there is no clutch plates or clutch material in this design NO friction modifier is required, only the factory spec of synthetic gear oil.

All factory Dana 70/80s that are limited-slip/anti-spin use clutch pack designs and will require friction modifier.

Detroit Truetrac Differentials
 
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