2001 Ram 2500 Ball Joint Replacement Cost - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Ram 2500 Ball Joint Replacement Cost

I have a 2 wheel drive 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 and I was told by a mechanic that I needed new ball joints. He went on to say that it would cost $1,200.00 to have them replaced. Is that I fair price?

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 09:31 PM
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thats way to much in my opinnion,if your mechanically inclined spend 3-$400 on parts and do it yourself.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks - He also said that it was unsafe to drive it with bad ball joints. Is that true?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 02:54 PM
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not a pretty sight when you loose a balljoint while driving.

red qclb 2wd,3rd gens w/295 terra graps,built trans,airdog fuel,adrenaline,custom intake,5" out the back aftermarket lights all around.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 03:12 PM
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ball joints are like 45 bucks cost about 180 dollars for parts at auto zone.

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on the duramax thing now.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 03:22 PM
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If you were to post where you were located you might even get some help from fellow members. The whole project should not be even close to 1200.00 bucks. But they got overhead and need the money, lol. I could get that done with alot more parts and upgrades for alot less money. Don't go back to that shop, lol.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 04:25 PM
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sounds about right for what a shop would charge. I did mine in about half a day and about $200

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-12-2010, 04:17 AM
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Depends if you want cheap parts or good parts.

If you go buy the parts yr self. Good parts will cost you any where from $200-$400

and most good shops will charge you $400 for Labor to do upper & Lower on both sides.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 07:15 PM
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It's heavy dirty labor, no question about it. Needs a few specialty tools, and the desire to lay on the ground, bashing knuckles and the rest. Hard enough on a big block car from years past. Needs alignment afterwards, too.

The advantage to DIY is to take your time, clean, scrape, sand and paint. Do some other jobs while under there (steering, shocks, springs, etc) if they may need it. So the savings isn't just some $$. You can "renew" the front end. Treat any system as a whole NEVER component-by-component and you will be miles ahead. If it's worn, replace it. If I never want to get under here again, replace it.

No question that pullers, air tools, specialty tools, etc are necessary and make the job far better. As does a helper. Pay for premium parts (dealer, IMO, or maybe NAPA), collect everything you may need ahead of time and have a go getter parts car for the stuff you forget.

Start Friday, finish Sunday, alignment shop Monday.

I would actually start the job the week before by steam cleaning the undercarriage and front end. Get all the crud off. And soak fasteners with KROIL (never that PB sht). Jack the rear and take the rear wheels off to clean/paint wheelwells and clean backside of tires/wheels. You'll do the same once the front end is being disassembled later.

Good luck.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2010, 05:28 PM
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$200 where? I called Napa a couple weeks ago, for prices on a pitman and idler arms, asked how much balljoints were out of curiosity, and my price was about $400.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 12:47 AM
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I did mine in about 6 hours taking my time. The only tools aside from hand stuff is a ball joint press and a set of pickle forks. Get the Moog greasable joints.

For safety sake, run a piece of chain though the spring so that if it does pop out it will not go that far or into your face.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2010, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denham View Post
$200 where? I called Napa a couple weeks ago, for prices on a pitman and idler arms, asked how much balljoints were out of curiosity, and my price was about $400.

ya buy the Moog Ball Joints...just about parts store will have them....i know if you go to the Advanced Auto Parts Web site they usually have 10-15-20-25% off the sale price! so you save a LOT of money using their website! i paid

$223.98 for TWO (2) MOOG - LOWER Ball Joints
$149.98 for TWO (2) MOOG - UPPER Ball Joints

Then I was STUPID and bought all 4 Tie Rods TRW Brand and i kid you not guys......they were falling apart with in the first few days! i had to take them back and bought all 4 new MOOG Tie Rods! and let me tell you..they were worth EVERY SINGLE CENT!!!

I pretty much replaced EVERYTHING on my suspension at the same time....If you see my posts awhile back on here, i did everything about a week after that i just have been too busy to post a COMPLETE parts list of ALL the parts i built to rebuild ALL of my suspension.

but ya ill post pictures, prices, and all that good stuff!

i also put on new brakes and rotors and i already wrapped the rotors with in 6months!! haha

I mean i know i drive my Cummins hard...real hard and use every cubic inch, every LB of boost every bit of power my Stacked chips put out....but come on now!.....$93.00 PER ROTOR! and they are already trashed? jeez!
I'm gonna try to catch the Store manager at Advanced one day and see if instead of giving me new stock style rotors i can just get my money back and buy some after market cross drilled and slotted rotors!

anyways...i will post a full price list and pics ASAP!

p.s. my lift pump is crapping out! i can only run my edge on 2.....good thing i have a Air Dog 100 laying on my floor right now, going to install it soon, along with a 4inch turbo back, steering stabilizer bar, Fluid-damper, cold air AEM intake, BD-nv-4500 short shift kit, ect ect ect....buying injectors in the coming week or two, maybe some springs too? also i need a POSI real bad and some Track bars!

Thomas Gabriel Jr.-"SOOT FOOT": White '99 CTD RCLB|2WD|3.55 Open|NV4500 1-3/8"IS|Valair DD Clutch|Smarty|Quadzilla Adrenaline PV2|VP44 Stealth Cover|150HP FBD Sticks|AEM Brute Force Intake|AIRDOG 100|Pusher Intake Elbow|MBRP 4" Exhaust|HX35|
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