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rounded off nut fuel filter housing

6K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  Audiowriter 
#1 ·
I have rounded off the plastic nut on top off the fuel filter housing,any Ideas on how to get off. thanks
 
#3 ·
They make aluminum replacements. I've been considering one myself. I always hate breaking that cap loose. Always feel like its right on the edge of stripping.
 
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#12 ·
Do it! I finally spent the money on one and I’m so glad I did after many fights with the stupid plastic one. It’s worth it to eliminate the headache from the stock one.

Follow Camperman’s links to Geno’s.
 
#5 ·
The first time I changed mine someone from the dealership used a lot of force... I ended up using a strap wrench around the head in conjunction with a 6 point socket. The combination of these 2 helped mine break loose. I'm not sure if a strap wrench around the cap would help you or not now...
 
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#6 ·
I use a 28mm 6 point socket & ratchet. No extensions. Keeping a steady pull on the ratchet seems to work best. Very first filter change, the cap was on really tight.

I do NOT torque the cap down. I just snug it up good. I do check for leaks after starting. Knock on wood, no leaks yet. Make sure you do replace the "O" ring and coat it with oil before installing.

I also turn the cap counter clockwise a bit or so to let it seat down on the threads to aid in the prevention of cross threading the cap in putting it back on.
 
#7 ·
I ran into this issue on a buddies truck (a 2011 IIRC) we used a large pair of channel locks, after i ran home to grab them of course. Make sure they are the style with the angled cut outs, not the straight teeth. The ones we used are in this picture, they are the red and black ones, for your reference

 
#11 ·
#13 ·
Man, I don't know how on earth you guys can use a strap wrench or vice grips on it even when stripped and still get leverage. Even with my correct socket and extensions I use it still takes a sh*t ton of torque to get the thing to budge, i feel like i am going to rip the entire canister off the mount!
 
#14 ·
I don't use extensions, just a ratchet & socket. Since I'm on the short side, I use a 2 step, step stool to stand on. That helps me get closer & more over the fuel canister. Keeping a steady pull on the ratchet works best for me.
 
#21 ·
I have one from them. When it arrived and the next filter change out rolled around, I put it on, but found it was going to rub two metal transmission cooler lines that went directly behind it. (If I am describing this correctly) I put the factory cap back on. I chickened out on the side of caution, thinking solving one issue could possibly cause another one. Anyone else have this same conclusion using the Billet cap from Geno's?
 
#23 ·
^^ You raise a great question. To be honest, I've never looked that closely, and for sure have not used a mirror. I will have to check more closely next change out. I have used a flash light to aid in checking for a fuel leak tho. Guess I thought if no leaks, it was good, now what you suggest, maybe I'm doing it wrong. Thanks for the heads up.
 
#24 ·
Your not doing it wrong. Just not sure how close the cap is going. It may work fine that way though, but next time check for the hell of it. I bet if I was to use a torque wrench and torque to 20 ft. lbs or whatever they state, it would not seat 100% either from what I am feeling what it takes to fully seat.
 
#25 · (Edited)
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/...ice-data-part-s.html?nojs=1#goto_threadsearch

I found this while looking for the torque value on the filter cap. Can't put my fingers on it at the moment. I did think that the above might be useful to a more recent owner with a 2010-2012 truck. Please scroll up to post #1.

I do remember reading that torquing the cap to the recommended value was asking for a big headache the next time it was removed. Seems that 20-22 ft. lbs was recommended.

PS. Fuel filter part # FS53000 is the Fleetguard part #.
 
#27 ·
Weird how some torque the cap/all I do is make sure it is not cross threaded and tighten by hand and it comes off relatively easy the next time :|
 
#28 ·
I found the torque value for the fuel filter cap. It was hiding in the Diesel Supplement Guide:

CAUTION! (Continued)
• Do not prefill the fuel filter when installing a new
fuel filter. There is a possibility debris could be
introduced into the fuel filter during this action. It
is best to install the filter dry and allow the in-tank
lift pump to prime the fuel system.
1. Ensure engine is turned off.
2. Place drain pan under the fuel filter drain hose.
3. Open the water drain valve 1/4 turn counterclockwise
and completely drain fuel and water into the approved
container.
4. Close the water drain valve.
5. Remove lid using a socket or strap wrench. Rotate
counterclockwise for removal. Remove used o-ring and
discard it.
6. Remove the used filter cartridge from the housing and
dispose of according to your local regulations.
7. Wipe clean the sealing surfaces of the lid and housing.
8. Install new o-ring back into ring groove on the filter
housing and lubricate with clean engine oil.
9. Remove new filter cartridge from plastic bag and
install into housing.
NOTE: Do not remove cartridge from bag until you
reach this step in order to keep cartridge clean.
10. Push down on the cartridge to ensure it is properly
seated. Do not pre-fill the filter housing with fuel.
11. Install lid onto housing and tighten to 22.5 ft lbs
(30.5 N.m). Do not overtighten the lid.

12. Prime the engine using the procedure in “Priming If
The Engine Has Run Out Of Fuel.” Then start the engine
and confirm there are no leaks.

Think I'll stick to what has worked since truck was new.
 
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#29 ·
Unlike a spin-on filter, tightening the cap has to do two things:
1) Seal the canister by making contact with the o-ring,
2) Make contact with the gaskets on the filter's ends.
If the lid's not torqued down enough, you could potentially get diesel/water/dirt "short-circuiting" around the ends of the filter. Just because you don't have an external leak is no guarantee that crud can't get past the filter element, and, since there's no way of knowing, all we have to go by is tightening to the specified torque in hopes that it's enough to make good contact with the filter.
 
#30 ·
unlike a spin-on filter, tightening the cap has to do two things:
1) seal the canister by making contact with the o-ring,
2) make contact with the gaskets on the filter's ends.
If the lid's not torqued down enough, you could potentially get diesel/water/dirt "short-circuiting" around the ends of the filter. Just because you don't have an external leak is no guarantee that crud can't get past the filter element, and, since there's no way of knowing, all we have to go by is tightening to the specified torque in hopes that it's enough to make good contact with the filter.
👍👍
 
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