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Leaf springs.

2K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Sazabizc 
#1 ·
Wanted to get some opinions . My leafs are shot, 340k pretty sure they are the Original , they have a mopar part number on them . They had a hard life , original owner hauled fire wood in the bed , 2nd owner had a camper in the bed. And I’ve haul saw dust, horse manure, hay, farm stuff ect. They are starting to sag I’ve noticed my bed is slightly lower then the front of the truck . Back when I put my coil spacers on the truck , the back of the truck was at least 1 and a half inches higher in the back. They are twisted and I get back axle wrap even unloaded some times when I back up.

I’ve found a spring and radiator shop not far from me. They use aftermarket springs but the guy said they are made in the USA and with US steel . He said they come from Pittsburgh. He told me the company but I can’t remember the name. They have 2 options on weight ratings. 2,600 which I believe is what my current ones are rated for . And they have a set rated for 3,300 pounds . I’m leaning towards the 3,300 cause of all the towing and hauling I do but don’t want my truck to ride like a tank unloaded . The guy I was talking to said it probably would stiffen up the ride going to 3,300 pounds he said they are noticeably thicker . But he wasn’t sure how much it would stiffen the ride up. I also have timbrens , so I thought well maybe I should just get the 2,600 pound ones and let the timbrens Handel the rest.

Doing some maths and I know there 2920 pounds on my rear axle unloaded . So that 5,200 pounds both springs can handle. Subtract 2,920 and that leave me 2,280 pounds left. That isn’t much and I’ve put more in the bed on several occasions. Which is why I’m thinking about the 3,300 pound springs. With the 3,300 pound springs I would have 3,680 pounds . Or is all this irrelevant since the timbrens can Handel 6,000 pounds [emoji23]. The 3,300 pound springs were about 150$ more each. So what’s your guys and gals thoughts ?


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#2 ·
Put in the 2600lb stock springs, then add the progressive add on overloads if your truck doesn't have them already. Rides with light loads on the main springs, extra weight pushed the back end down onto the overload hangers. That way, you're not riding all the time on the spine pounders.

Measure and order by leaf count, leaf width and spring pack thickness.

Love the HELLWIG LOAD PRO SERIES HELPER SPRINGS

Springs last much longer with good HD high pressurized nitrogen shocks all the time.

Timbrens are hard on wheel bearings no give
 
#3 ·
Yeah I saw those over load springs you are talking about . I looked into them , some people complained it made the truck ride really ruff even unloaded . Unless I hit a really big bump , I don’t even know the timerens are there. When they do touch the axle with weight in the bed . It makes the truck ride so much better and very little sway side to side . But I’ll look into those springs again.
The 2,600 pound springs were the same number of leafs I have now. One over load on the bottom and 4 setting on top. The 3,300 pound ones I think had 5 or 6 leafs I believe.


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#4 ·
Or go to the local pic a part and get a set of leafs for $100.
About 998 out of 1000 HD leaf springs aren't anywhere near wore out when the vehicle is junked.

If budget is of any value anyway.
 
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#5 ·
Or go to the local pic a part and get a set of leafs for $100.

About 998 out of 1000 HD leaf springs aren't anywhere near wore out when the vehicle is junked.



If budget is of any value anyway.


That’s true . Unfortunately I don’t think there are many junk yards around me . There’s a few but I don’t think they have any hd rams unfortunately. Or at lest last I check that is .

To any one that has replaced leaf springs . How often do the blots come out with out fighting . I’m kind of worried one or more of the blots are going to be rusted into the sleeves and I’m going to have to cut them . Not sure how much they are from the dealership. Watched a video on line of two guys replacing leafs and the truck was a rust bucket but they got all the blots out with little fuss . They also said they couldn’t oder the blots from the dealer. I haven’t checked into that yet.


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#7 ·
Bolts, man...bolts.
Depends how rusty yer truk is.
I'd at least have a source for new u-bolts before tearing into it.
IMO, that's one of the things that I probably wouldn't even dink with if I was putting new springs on. $30-40 for a new set. Cut the old ones off in 10 minutes with a whizz wheel or torch and get to installing the new.
 
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#9 ·
Got my leaf spring on. Truck sets about 2 inches higher in the back now. Had a problem with one of the spring . It wasn’t arched right, and the truck leaned to the passenger side . The company I got the springs from gave me a new one and once I got it on the truck now sets pretty level . Driver side from the top of the tire to the wheel well is 9 and 7/8s passenger side is now 9 and hair above 3/4. I wish it was the same on both side but that’s not to bad. I didn’t expect it to be 100% except. Truck now rides better and handles loads good . Had the tractor on the trailer about 15k and with the new springs and timberlands the truck sets level .
Blots didn’t give me much problems. Only the blots on the hangers holding them to the frame . Had to heat those . Other then that it wasn’t that bad. Kind of awkward to get them out and the new in. It helps to have two people . Also helps to have two jacks . One to Jack the frame And one to drop the axle.



Old ones were worn out and twisted

New springs on the bottom pictures . Phone goofed the oder up.

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#11 ·
What aren’t you sure about ?

Yeah all in all it wasn’t that bad . One problem I did have is some of the blots didn’t want to come out not due to rust but do to they were in a bind . That was a pain to have to play with the jacks or use ratcheting straps to move the axle forward or backwards a little . Also just a head up to anyone . The two blots that hold the springs on closest to the front . On the drivers side there not enough room to back it all the way out the ratchet will hit the gas tank. Maybe with a universal and wobble extensions might be able to get it out , but then then t60 Tworks bit also sticks out about 2 inches . So the only way I found to get it out was to either drop the gas tank or cut the blot . I cut the blot off and went to tractor supply got a 5/8 grade 8 blot about 5 inches long if I recall correctly. Used that and some grade 8 washers and a lock washer and it turned out very nice . I’m actually thinking. About replacing all those funky t60 torxs blots with grade 8 hex blots . Unfortunately once the shackle is bolted to the spring and and frame of the truck there’s really no way to get a t60 bit and torque wrench on it to tighten it . The frame is in the way. Have to tighten it to specs and then hope to the good lord it’s going to line up with the frame hanger as you slowly lower the frame down on it . Be much easier with a hex blot . Could use a wrench on one side to hole it and the torque wrench on the other side were there’s more room. Also oem blot is a 16mm 2.0 thread pitch about 5 inches long if anyone was wondering .


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#13 ·
Bolts....lol
 
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