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06 blown engine

16K views 93 replies 20 participants last post by  rghavana 
#1 ·
I'll be calling around seeing what they charge for a rebuild. I feel like for cost, its probably more worth my time to drop in a p-pump 12v. Would the 12v work with the stock auto trans? Or should I look at a nv4500/ nv5600? The truck is also 4wd and stock. With the exception being a mopar exaughst brake.
 
#2 ·
It would need, engine rebuild, new injectors, new cp3. So 11-12k worth of parts, vs 3-4k for a p-pump 12v, and 1,500 for a 4wd with upgraded input nv4500.
 
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#3 ·
One of my buddies is a Cummins mechanic, he said just rebuild it, more worth your time. So I'll take his word for it. Sense itll need injectors, should I get stockers or something over?
I plan to build this truck, auto will need attention, valve body upgrades are good till 400hp. What would I need to do transmission wise for 500+?
What about fuel side for 500+?
And turbo wise. Compounds or a 66?
 
#4 ·
Buddy just had a shop rebuild his 07 5.9 and it cost him right at $11,000.
 
#5 ·
That seems like a pretty good price.
.. New injectors 30% over tips, 10% stroked CP3, tubes about $4,400
.. Engine kit $1,100
.. Nice Turbo upgrade $2,500
.. Guessing 40 hours Remove, Rebuild, Install $4,000

Damn, I'm $1,000 over budget
 
#6 ·
They didn’t touch injectors, pump or turbo.
 
#7 ·
I know itll be 5k or so just for engine, 2500 for injectors, 800 for cp3. I know right around 8k to get it running.
 
#9 ·
Can I drop in a 6.7? Do I need any extra controllers, or wiring stuff?
 
#10 ·
Depends whats wrong. I bought my 01 with a bad case of blow by . Turns out the previous owned ignored the injectors and a few ring packs shattered.
When I pulled it apart surprisingly the bores really werent scored. I sent my block to a machine shop and they where able to clean it up with a hone only .
I did the rebuild myself. All new bearings gaskets rings redid the head. I was able to go through the whole engine for a 1000$ in parts and machine the shop honing my bores and the piston pins for the rods.
I would take the engine apart and if you have the time and go from there . If you have the time do it yourself It doesnt have to cost much to rebuild a engine . You just have to take your time and pay attention to tolerances.
 
#11 ·
All 6 cylinders are tore up pretty bad.
2 pistons are eaten threw. Didnt get down to the bottom of the engine yet.
 
#12 ·
All will depend on whether block, head and crank are rebuildable.
Good 3rd Gen 5.9 blocks and cranks are getting as rare as panties on one of Trump's wives or women in pubic and as expensive as all his attorneys/law firms paying off the girls and divorce bills.

What are your motor precision assembly skills?
Good local experience Cummins diesel engine machinist locally?

Machine shop sleeving of a 5.9 parent bore block gets real expensive real quick
 
#26 ·
Is the Trump bashing really necessary.
Not a damn thing to do with a diesel engine rebuild...…………..way off topic
GROW UP!
 
#14 ·
I have a VP truck, love it. Sounds way better then the 06. I'm not mechanic, I've done things when needed, like a head gasket, shops wanted 3k to do it. Just the Labor cost. So I did it myself.
That's why I'm leaning towards a mechanical engine, or as mentioned a 6.7. A buddy of mine has a Cummins out of a peterbuilt and and 6 speed Eaton. No idea what size it is, he said he'll look again.
 
#22 ·
No one in their right mind does an inframe on a parent bore 5.9 or 6.7 with extensive cylinder wall damage.
The cylinder wall in that video did no clean up with just a ball buster .Still has excessive blowby crankcase pressure after his tinkering. With bearings looking like that the crank has to be machined.

Still has the same garbage injectors in it that caused the first failures.

Waste of parts, will fail again soon, next time catastrophically.
 
#18 ·
Pretty much any 6.7 would work but if you get the 13 and newer, they had better emissions stuff on them and tend to have less issues. If you go for the 13 or newer, you have to change over the idler pulley and mount to the old style and a couple small things. My engine was a 2016 with literally 1 mile on the odometer. I tore it apart and put all the upgrade parts in it.
 
#19 ·
Sweet man, I'll see what's up when I get around to it, however id delete it right away.
 
#25 ·
Should I be looking for a complete 6.7, or a longblock? Does it matter?
 

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#28 ·
That depends. If you plan on putting on aftermarket stuff, go long block. I am glad I went with the complete. You can use all the fuel rails and tubing, intake horn, radiator fan pulley...etc.

Having all that extra stuff makes life a lot easier when you are transferring stuff over. Sell what you don't use later.
 
#30 ·
Will the 5.9 injector fit in a 6.7 head? Do I need a 5.9 head on the 6.7?
I'll pm you, get your info, and give you a ring when I get a engine.
 
#32 ·
Does a 6.7 need machine work on the for studs?
 
#34 ·
Just makin sure. I believe I had to for my 3rd gen 5.9
 
#36 ·
Transmission wise, if you don’t plan on being around 800+ don’t do the billet intermediate shaft. I’ve heard that stocks break around that power but when they break they make a clean snap, when the billet ones break they send splinters in your trans and can cause damage. So, with that said, you’d want billet flexplate (just go SFI approved), billet input and output, billet torque converter (I’m sure a single disk would be fine for upwards of 500 but a triple disk is a nice touch in my opinion of owning one), upgraded valve body and upgraded clutches. They make different strengths of billet shafts, so kinda pick and choose for what you see yourself using the rig for, towing and just getting on it from time to time? The basic billet would work, racing and boosted launches? Probably look into phatshafts. For converter, have it custom stalled for your pickup and your turbo. When I got my trans used before I had it rebuilt, the converter was stalled for a 75ish turbo so stall was around 2500 I think, way too doggy for a stocker, when I got it rebuilt the local shop to me (Ultimate Transmission) stalled it for 1400/1900 for a 64ish size turbo, it was perfect after that. Just have a reputable shop do it for you, not a basic side shop.
 
#37 ·
Not exactly the same, but I bought a long block for just under 5K installed for 5K in a marine application 1999 6BT 5.9M (m for marine, have an aluminum pan). I had nearly new turbo, exhaust manifold, balmar alternator; replaced all the hoses. Electrical was fine.

Outside the 10K, I had to replace the exhaust elbow, prop and thrust bearing, something that you don't need to consider.
I don't know what the pricing is for an 06 but you might what to check out long bock as an option. Seems like a truck might be less of a job since you don't need a haul out and all the other stuff entailed for a boat re-power.

I like the suggestion to go up in power with a used 6.7; it wasn't an option that I considered. my 99 is a 210; having more power would have been nice but not critical. Rather have a trolling valve for the zf transmission.

FYI, engine re-power because of the number 1 bearing cracking when the oil pump disintegrated and ran too long.
 
#39 ·
I'm definitely going to build it, I'll redo the whole thing from scratch. This truck has been sitting in a field for the past 2-3 years. I'm shooting for 500-700 anywhere inbetween there, I'm guessing 85%, 100s, and a 363/475 or s480 combo.
And build the tranny of course.
 

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#42 ·
I do like the cow puncher on the front.. Wanna sell it??<img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Stick Out Tongue" class="inlineimg" />
LOL
Nope that's alright, you're better off finding one in your area anyhow.

No matter what 6.7 you get you had better do a rebuild.

It will require new 5.9 injectors and if you are doing that then BBI is the top choice for quality and power, it will cost though.

Tear the engine down and toss the cracked crap rods in the engine and source a set of 24 forged rods and balance them, there is a REASON the 6.7 trucks have so many vibe issues and it is in the engine itself. Nothing good can come of rods that have a 100 gram difference in their weights. <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

While the block is apart get it fire ringed and get the custom head gasket, if you are pulling all the safeties off and going for power it is the only smart way to go. Make sure the block and head are both true and make sure they smooth then really, really well.
Do you mean 24v forged rods?
I was thinking arp studs 425's or 625's and stock gasket, no matter where it leaves me I can always get a Cummins head gasket.
BBI will not get my money. Seen it with my eyes 2 many times how worthless they are. I'd rather buy DAP tips or exergy.
 
#41 · (Edited)
No matter what 6.7 you get you had better do a rebuild.

It will require new 5.9 injectors and if you are doing that then BBI is the top choice for quality and power, it will cost though.

Tear the engine down and toss the cracked crap rods in the engine and source a set of 24V forged rods and balance them, there is a REASON the 6.7 trucks have so many vibe issues and it is in the engine itself. Nothing good can come of rods that have a 100 gram difference in their weights. :(

While the block is apart get it fire ringed and get the custom head gasket, if you are pulling all the safeties off and going for power it is the only smart way to go. Make sure the block and head are both true and make sure they smooth then really, really well.
 
#46 ·
No matter what 6.7 you get you had better do a rebuild.

It will require new 5.9 injectors and if you are doing that then BBI is the top choice for quality and power, it will cost though.

Tear the engine down and toss the cracked crap rods in the engine and source a set of 24V forged rods and balance them, there is a REASON the 6.7 trucks have so many vibe issues and it is in the engine itself. Nothing good can come of rods that have a 100 gram difference in their weights. <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

While the block is apart get it fire ringed and get the custom head gasket, if you are pulling all the safeties off and going for power it is the only smart way to go. Make sure the block and head are both true and make sure they smooth then really, really well.
I'm looking for a reliable 5-700hp.
Anywhere inbetween. Would I need custom pistons for 5.9 rods? Can you or anyone give me a straight forward build list of everything I'd need?
I'm not opposed to making it a 6.4, for the most part I'm going to make it a DD and occasionally tow / have fun DD.
Do I need to look for a specific year 24v rod? Will the 06 rods work?
Appreciate it.
-edit-
I'm not rich, but if I can get a complete list of everything I'd need that would be a huge start. Have some odds and ends to tieup on my 2nd gen, then I'm going full force. I'm guessing 12-17k total to build it up. Just ain't got no idea what all I'd need.
I want it to be as reliable as possible for 5-700hp. If 6.4 isn't a correct route I gotcha, I'd read a 6.4 was a more stout / stable build then a 6.7. I'm a Cummins newb looking for the advice of those who've been there done that already.
 
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