Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Thanked 227 Times in 195 Posts
If you have a 4wd, and are doing the work on the ground, you could lock it in 4wd before starting the job. That would save monkeying around with the breaker bar/towel.
Or put a bar through a u joint where it will brace against the floor or the truck .
maybe on a 2500 with rotor-over-hub-and-lug-nuts style hub, axle shafts will be out and hub will be off while you have to bolt the rotor to the hub on a DRW style hub.
I wouldn't bother with the microfiber cloth, a piece of flat stock (mine is like 0.5"x1"x24") wedged between two lug nuts gives plenty of counter-leverage to torque the nuts on.
another pro-tip: impact gun does take out the rotor to hub bolts nicely, but you can do it with hand tools. factory specs red loc tite on the rotor to hub bolts (and you should be using some on replacement as per FSM), so a little heat with a propane torch and they will come out with hand tools no problem
2006 RAM 3500 DRW 6 speed 4WD QCLB: unit bearing delete, metric delete, all tow no go.
1991 W350 SRW auto 4WD RCLB: Fleetjunk delete, Garmon trans, NASTRUCK
Just say no to metric Daimler-Fiat