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2013-2017 D Truck Drag link recall

181K views 1K replies 176 participants last post by  URDiesel 
#1 ·
I promise I used search and didn’t find anything on this. Please don’t scold me if someone already posted.

Received this notice in my “My Ram” app this morning.

Here is the screenshot.



Seems a little concerning to me when a fix is to replace a broken one or weld a non broken one that is in spec but I admit I am about the least knowledgeable guy posting on this forum (aside from the weight police [emoji3])


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#4 ·
got mine today. sad thing is I just got the others done 2 weeks ago. but I check the nuts every time im under the truck
 
#10 ·
I have this and two other recalls waiting. I'll get this one done when they have the actual fix ready. At this moment it is just a quick fix, not a true repair/replacement. I torqued and loctited and painted reference marks on mine many miles ago so no need to take it to the dealer to get the jam nuts welded to the sleeve. The actual repair needs to address the extremely loose engagement of the threads on the nuts and sleeve. They need to replace them with ones that engage better or they need to replace the whole drag link assembly. The threads are scary loose. From the wording of the recall and from user reports of steering wheels suddenly being 1/4 turn or more off center and from what I noticed when mine came loose, the engagement is so loose that it can jump threads if the jam nut(s) are not tight.
 
#5 ·
looks like this affects me as well.

mine have come loose once so far, added a little red loctite and so far so good.

but if they weld it how is one supposed to do an alignment properly at a later date???
 
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#7 ·
Yeah, lets weld it so I can never center my steering wheel again.. No thanks, I'll pass on this one. I already put lock tight on it.

.
 
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#11 ·
Looks like I will be getting a letter in the mail soon. I wonder what the changed on the 2018's that kept them from being included in this recall.
 
#218 ·
I have a 2018 2500 that was manufactured in February 2018. I purchased the truck new in March 2019. I received a recall in the mail for the drag link as well. So this thing is extending into the 2018 models. I am considering an aftermarket replacement like the Synergy brand drag link bar. https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-13-ram-truck-heavy-duty-drag-link.html?category_id=4060 The money spent for this to put this issue to bed might be worth it in the long run. A 4 wheel alignment with state of the art Hunter Alignment is only $94. So buying the aftermarket replacement for $300, 30 minute install, and realignment is not out of the question. However, like everyone else, who wants to spend the money for this.
 
#16 ·
I was making an appt with a front end shop to do a Thuren spec alignment this week.
I had a dealer alignment done in Oct for free and it seemed like it made my right front tire wear even faster.
I guess I should have the shop align it before the dealer welds it in place???
 
#23 ·
That dealer doesn’t have a welder? If Ram is more than willing to weld a new truck’s drag link, I can’t see why they wouldn’t do it to a used one.
 
#27 ·
After I found mine loose the first time, I put anti-sieze on the threads and tightened them as tight as I could. I do inspect them when I change oil, but they haven't loosened up in over 40,000 miles. I'm wondering if the new piece will be like the Jeeps, a sleeve with clamps on the sleeve instead of nuts.

 
#28 ·
...I'm wondering if the new piece will be like the Jeeps, a sleeve with clamps on the sleeve instead of nuts.
that is how the old drag link used to be. I think the new system is much better. I don't know anything about metal or threads, but I wonder why they use fine threads on these links and so many other bolts. Seems like a coarse thread would hold better, no?:confused013:
 
#31 ·
Threads are basically mechanical wedges. Think of a thread like a doorstop that's wrapped around a cylinder. The finer the pitch, the shallower the doorstop is for a given length. Thus, a fine pitch holds better than a coarse pitch because it's a shallower angle. Think of the difference in doorstop effectiveness, one being a shallow sliver that JUST fits under the door, and the other a clunky 30 or 45 degree wedge. You can get the tip of the thicker wedge under the door... but it doesn't lock in place because the friction relationships are wrong. Likewise, if you're using a wedge to lift a heavy door into place to mount the hinges, you use a thin, shallow wedge and tap it into place gently, not a clunky large angle wedge. You get finer adjustment and more effective mechanical advantage.

Finer threads hold better because of the above.

Because the wedge is shallower and the mechanical advantage greater, it is possible to develop the same stud/bolt stretch preload with reduced torque on finer threads.

Finer threads cut less deeply into the material, and are thus easier to cut into harder materials.

A fine threaded-fastener of the same nominal diameter as a coarse is stronger than the coarse because the major diameter of the fine threaded piece is greater.

The disadvantage to finer threads is that you need longer thread engagements because the area of the thread engagement is reduced, even considering the tighter helix.

Another disadvantage is that finer threads tend to cross-thread and gall more easily, especially in the presence of contaminants.
 
#34 ·
Is there an aftermarket option out there that one could buy and then turn the receipt into FCA and have them pay you? Welding the nut in place just doesn’t set well with me. That’s the worst solution to a problem I’ve heard. Maybe if out in the field and it’s needed to get you home but not something the manufacturer should be doing.

If the nut is jumping the threads one would think either the nut is oversized or the threads are undersized or cut to shallow.
 
#42 ·
Is there an aftermarket option out there that one could buy ....
Heck yeah. Synergy makes a drag link -- and matching tie rod -- with great big replaceable self-centering sealed Heim joints held in place with billet steel clamps, not jam nuts. They put the OEM hardware to shame for strength, maintainability, adjustability, and appearance.
 
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#36 ·
Loctite should be sufficient along with proper torque. Assuming the threads are not damaged.
 
#40 ·
Locktight will work if its coming loose by turning, but like some say it has jumped a thread. If the bolt and thread have enough space to jump a threat locktight is not the best fix but better then nothing. If it was good fix RAM would use it. Something bigger is going on here then just the nut backing off, which is what locktight is made to prevent.
 
#38 ·
Would be curious if FCA would pay for it though.
 
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