Who else has a hard time drawing the line? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING -

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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Who else has a hard time drawing the line?

I tend to overdo things, I work and drive in some very desolate places with no cell service and little to no traffic. So when performing work or a project on one of my truck I like to eliminate any potential weak links but admittedly get carried away more often then not.

I was planning to get a new truck but havenít been thrilled with any of the new offerings so decided to keep my 16 and do some things Iíve been putting off like having line-x sprayed on my replacement bumpers and around the bottom of the truck, it goes in next week for that. Iím either going to add some Carli suspension parts front and back or do gears as reverse with the G56, a dual disc, 37s and 3.42s kind of sucks. Iím leaning toward gears to keep the new clutch and driveline happy even tho Iím not sure Iíll love highway RPMs with 4.10s.

Gears/rebuild kits themselves are reasonable and my truck having over 101k and all hard parts stock minus the clutch Iíll want to do balljoints, u joints, wheel bearings and track bar while Iím at it.

Hereís my problem tho, while Iím in there I might as well add an ARB right? If I need onboard air no reason not to get a good compressor so the ARB twin compressor it is. Rather then spend 500 on unit bearings I should delete the cad with a 1 piece passenger axle and add free spin hubs. Putting all this money and work into the front axle iíd better weld on a thuren truss

So a 2k project turns into a 5k+ project pretty quick, most of which I wonít get back when I sell it and isnít worth taking off to sell separately. Anyone else have this problem?


-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:00 PM
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Don’t know where to start. So I’ll start with this..what problem are we looking to solve here?
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:13 PM
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Admitting you have a problem is the first step!! Gears are a yes but do your go far enough off road to need CAD delete and an ARB? Suspension is also s yes. Just do what you need to make it reliable and yours!!


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2017 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 Laramie , 35" Toyo AT's / Center Console Shifter Mod. SOLD---- 2012 Ram 2500 4X4 Crew-Silver- 4:10's / Carli 3" Coils w/35" Toyo AT2's / Ranch Hand Bumper / Center Console Swap w shifter SOLD!!!
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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None really lol, it’s more I’m already in there so I might as well make some unnecessary upgrades. I guess I just like building the most solid setup I can
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-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SRich12 View Post
Admitting you have a problem is the first step!! Gears are a yes but do your go far enough off road to need CAD delete and an ARB? Suspension is also s yes. Just do what you need to make it reliable and yours!!


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4.10s will be completely different for me then you auto guys but I think it’ll be tolerable on the highway.

Me and my truck live offroad for work and we see some pretty nasty sites and right of ways very far off the beaten path most times. Extra traction and reliability are never a bad thing out there but I’ve made it this far without it. The only time I get concerned is when I’m the last person on site and there’s no service which does happen. I just have a hard time not doing these things when it’s the opportune time to do them.

I will do suspension and gears I was just picking which one to do first while I’m laid off and I’m leaning toward gears. Suspension is straight forward I know exactly what I’m getting

-Carli 3” coils
-Carli 5 leaf add a pack
-Carli fox 2.0s
-Carli track bar
-DOR gear box brace
-Already have DOR long arm setup

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
I just like building the most solid setup I can

'18 6.7 S472-5 Blade 2018 Build
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
4.10s will be completely different for me then you auto guys but I think itíll be tolerable on the highway.

Me and my truck live offroad for work and we see some pretty nasty sites and right of ways very far off the beaten path most times. Extra traction and reliability are never a bad thing out there but Iíve made it this far without it. The only time I get concerned is when Iím the last person on site and thereís no service which does happen. I just have a hard time not doing these things when itís the opportune time to do them.

I will do suspension and gears I was just picking which one to do first while Iím laid off and Iím leaning toward gears. Suspension is straight forward I know exactly what Iím getting

-Carli 3Ē coils
-Carli 5 leaf add a pack
-Carli fox 2.0s
-Carli track bar
-DOR gear box brace
-Already have DOR long arm setup
Sounds like you have the suspension figured out!! Good choice!! I would recommend AAM gears. These guys can't be beat!! https://cmgearworks.com/

2018 Ram 2500 4X4 SLT Bighorn White 4.10 Gears/Carli Level/295 Toyo AT2's /Full Console swap w shifter /Projector Headlights with HID's-LED Highs/ B&W Turnover Ball----
2017 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 Laramie , 35" Toyo AT's / Center Console Shifter Mod. SOLD---- 2012 Ram 2500 4X4 Crew-Silver- 4:10's / Carli 3" Coils w/35" Toyo AT2's / Ranch Hand Bumper / Center Console Swap w shifter SOLD!!!
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nuljas23 (01-19-2020)
post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SRich12 View Post
Sounds like you have the suspension figured out!! Good choice!! I would recommend AAM gears. These guys can't be beat!! https://cmgearworks.com/
Yep already going with AAM and C&M lol. Iíve had my shopping cart ready to go for a few days now just havenít pulled the trigger until I decide how far Iím going
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-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nuljas23 View Post
I tend to overdo things, I work and drive in some very desolate places with no cell service and little to no traffic. So when performing work or a project on one of my truck I like to eliminate any potential weak links but admittedly get carried away more often then not.

I was planning to get a new truck but havenít been thrilled with any of the new offerings so decided to keep my 16 and do some things Iíve been putting off like having line-x sprayed on my replacement bumpers and around the bottom of the truck, it goes in next week for that. Iím either going to add some Carli suspension parts front and back or do gears as reverse with the G56, a dual disc, 37s and 3.42s kind of sucks. Iím leaning toward gears to keep the new clutch and driveline happy even tho Iím not sure Iíll love highway RPMs with 4.10s.

Gears/rebuild kits themselves are reasonable and my truck having over 101k and all hard parts stock minus the clutch Iíll want to do balljoints, u joints, wheel bearings and track bar while Iím at it.

Hereís my problem tho, while Iím in there I might as well add an ARB right? If I need onboard air no reason not to get a good compressor so the ARB twin compressor it is. Rather then spend 500 on unit bearings I should delete the cad with a 1 piece passenger axle and add free spin hubs. Putting all this money and work into the front axle iíd better weld on a thuren truss

So a 2k project turns into a 5k+ project pretty quick, most of which I wonít get back when I sell it and isnít worth taking off to sell separately. Anyone else have this problem?

Sounds perfectly reasonable to me. If you've got the money to spend, spreading it around does nothing but good for the economy! If I'd known about the free spin hubs when I had my knuckles off, axles and ball joints out, I'd have added them. I hate unit bearings with a passion. If I had the guts out of the axle to do gears and hubs and ball joints, I'd weld on a truss and consider an air locker, but I don't think I need it. I've already got a good compressor mounted up. I mean, I needed that for the air springs, right? It's not like the axle housing will be empty very often, and despite the reinforcements our axles have received as compared to earlier units, the truss is going to make it a lot stronger.

When you go with the free spin hubs, make sure you've got hollow center wheels to let them poke through. I've got custom extra long dually wheel adapters up front because of my wider steel wheels, and it looks like I need to have slightly different versions on hand to mount up to the free spin hubs....so sometime I've got to draw them up and get them hogged out of billet....
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 11:51 PM
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Do you go off-road often?

You need to almost "Rock Crawl" to be in a position to need and use a front locker.

I've considered adding a front locker. Then I decided I that I don't off-road my HD hard enough to justify a front locker.

If you decide you want a selectable locker, I'd avoid "Air Lockers". ARB makes an awesome product, it is very strong. The issue is Air Lockers have too many failure points. Electric, air, and mechanical are the common fail points. Id go with an "E" locker, less fail points to deal with.

When I'm off-roading with groups of people, it tends to be the guys with Air Lockers that have issues. Air compressor not turning on, air leak, hose ripped off, and so on.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EricPeterson View Post
Sounds perfectly reasonable to me. If you've got the money to spend, spreading it around does nothing but good for the economy! If I'd known about the free spin hubs when I had my knuckles off, axles and ball joints out, I'd have added them. I hate unit bearings with a passion. If I had the guts out of the axle to do gears and hubs and ball joints, I'd weld on a truss and consider an air locker, but I don't think I need it. I've already got a good compressor mounted up. I mean, I needed that for the air springs, right? It's not like the axle housing will be empty very often, and despite the reinforcements our axles have received as compared to earlier units, the truss is going to make it a lot stronger.

When you go with the free spin hubs, make sure you've got hollow center wheels to let them poke through. I've got custom extra long dually wheel adapters up front because of my wider steel wheels, and it looks like I need to have slightly different versions on hand to mount up to the free spin hubs....so sometime I've got to draw them up and get them hogged out of billet....
You seem to think like I do! Money isnít a concern but I donít like to spend it frivolously either, some would say this falls under that category I suppose. I run free spins on my 97 and 99, the 16 has aftermarket wheels so no concerns of them not fitting through the bore.

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HeavyTwo View Post
Do you go off-road often?

You need to almost "Rock Crawl" to be in a position to need and use a front locker.

I've considered adding a front locker. Then I decided I that I don't off-road my HD hard enough to justify a front locker.

If you decide you want a selectable locker, I'd avoid "Air Lockers". ARB makes an awesome product, it is very strong. The issue is Air Lockers have too many failure points. Electric, air, and mechanical are the common fail points. Id go with an "E" locker, less fail points to deal with.

When I'm off-roading with groups of people, it tends to be the guys with Air Lockers that have issues. Air compressor not turning on, air leak, hose ripped off, and so on.
I’m offroad nearly every day for work. While I don’t “wheel” or beat my truck we do get into some nasty situations and when I’m alone with no service is when I’ll need it.

While I agree about air lockers there really aren’t many selectable options for the 9.25, I run an ox locker in my 97 and LOVE it but ox doesn’t support the 9.25 unfortunately. I’ll be adding compound turbos in the near future and feel the ARB is the strongest option available.

People certainly have issues with compressors, air lines, electronics and such but I feel a lot of those troubles are self inflicted by the installer. Done properly and kept out of harms way you shouldn’t have any issues. Especially me since I’m not rock bouncing the truck

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
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