Two Part Question - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING -

 26Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 20
Thanks: 52
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Two Part Question

I have a 2017 6.7 2500, low miles around 11,500, it is my camper pulling machine and some occasional use to keep batteries in good shape etc. etc. Im looking to maintain my baby the best way possible

Question 1: Grid heater bolt, should I disconnect? I live in SC and it gets into the Teens- 20's on some winter mornings, ( rarely lower) but mostly the 30's-40's. Maybe a block heater option?

Question 2: I dont like it re-breathing its own poo-poo, cant be good for the engine. If any parts fall off I want to be sure to be able to put them back on for any reason. With that in mind I need a tune that is reliable and will keep everything in a factory like setting ( Im happy with the power it has, and have no desire to rip out my 68RFE). I would like to get it before these things completely disappear.

Thatdarncat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 11:31 AM
Cummins Enthusiast
 
rentalguy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 223
Thanks: 14
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
1. I haven't had a bad experience with the grid heater bolt problem, but I did add the block heater cable as soon as I bought the truck. Yours already has the heater installed. All you need is the cable which can be bought off of amazon a lot cheaper than through the dealership. I would suggest using some of that savings to buy a covered plug that can be easily installed in the lower valance. With the plug you don't have to dog around for the cable whenever you need to plug in and the install looks clean, almost as if the factory put it there. There will be a know-it-all or two on here that will post up telling you that you don't need to plug in at those temps, and they are actually correct. BUT, it sure is nice to hit that remote start button and hearing the beast come to life immediately instead of waiting for the pre-heat cycle to end. I don't live far from you, but it does get a little colder here in the NE TN mountains. Sometimes a lot colder. If the weather forecast says it will get to 32* or less overnight, I always plug her in before I go to bed. It's just easier on the equipment.

2. DISCLAIMER: It is highly illegal to modify your truck in any way that the Gestapo does not like, or may not like in the future. If you do so, the head tree hugger will automatically know it due to the spy software that is installed in your ECM, and they will descend upon you in black helicopters and smack you on the pee pee and try to rob your bank account. Proceed at your own peril and the knowledge that you will be a major contributor to Polar Bears not being able to catch and eat descendants of ice age squirrels due to a lack of polar ice, which is actually growing but we are forced to believe is shrinking because the head tree hugger and his minions are smarter and know better than us.

The emissions systems on this truck is exactly what kills them. That is, unless you are an old-hand, super-trucker that puts 3 bazillion miles on their truck a year while hauling 470,000 pounds of steel across the entire country seven times a day... you know, exactly what these trucks were designed for, which makes us that use them as a daily driver/toy hauler morons for not buying a gasser... but I digress, tuning won't kill the 68RFE. It is a person's driving style that will kill it. I have heard really good thing (on a daily basis), from the only person that I truly trust to work on my truck (me) about the EFI Live CSP-5 tuner. I have heard that you can also get a tune for the 68RFE with this setup that improves pressure management and the shift strategy of this transmission. The horespower and torque being delivered to the transmission will kill it if it is not managed. If you decide to go this route, I highly suggest getting an Edge CTS2 monitor and setting one of the parameters to monitor the transmission line pressure, and then setting an alarm to let you know when you are exceeding the maximum pressure the manufacturer suggests to never exceed. That way, as soon as you hear the little chirp you can back out of the skinny pedal just a bit and keep the trans happy. If you do this, you will probably have to adjust your driving style. You will have to re-learn to pull out easy, gently roll on the throttle until you get to third gear. You will also have to adjust to running in a lower gear at higher RPMs. The happy spot with this setup, while running around town, seems to be fourth gear with the converter locked up, about 1750 RPM and 45-50 MPH.

If you do decide to go this route, I also highly suggest throwing a little bit more money at it at the same time and adding an improved exhaust manifold, a fixed geometry turbo and an aftermarket exhaust brake. FYI: BD makes an air operated exhaust brake that works off the factory switch and is stronger than the stock version. You should also upgrade the head studs at this time. It isn't necessarily required, and you don't need to go over the top, but slightly higher strength ARP head studs will give you added piece of mind. All of this will cost quite a bit of money ($5000 +/- range) and completely void your worthless powertrain warranty, but if you intend to keep the truck forever (as I do), you won't even give this a second thought. Good luck!
Thatdarncat and Buckup like this.

2017 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4, Crew Cab, S&B CAI, BD Perf.+ex. man., BW S300SX-E turbo (64.5.mm), BD EB, ARP head studs, EFI Live CSP5 Tune & Trans Tune, MBRP Turbo back 5" exhaust w/MBRP Quiet Tone Muffler, Sinister EGR & Throttle Valve Deletes.
rentalguy1 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to rentalguy1 For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 11:52 AM
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,765
Thanks: 119
Thanked 159 Times in 135 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
In no way does he need all that to occasionally pull a camper and drive around town, he said he wants to keep the tranny stock and your list would make him throw more money at it.

OP you can unhook the grid heater at the solenoid under the passenger battery and be fine. Most companies offer stock power tuning so for your needs just unplug the egr, it doesn’t even have to come off, and get or make a delete pipe that way to turn it back to stock all you have to do is push a few plugs back together and reinstall the DPF/SCR and the factory tune.

I ran my truck for 97k trouble free miles completely stock until the clutch started slipping but I suspect being a manual and not lugging all the time like the autos do helped keep my emissions healthy
Thatdarncat likes this.

-1999 2500 white sport QCSB/NV4500/EMS free spins
-1997 2500 12v LWB 5spd, 1998.5 3500 P24V 5spd
-2016 MC Laramie G56 maximum steel/CTT/CTS2/SB3250/37s
nuljas23 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to nuljas23 For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 11:58 AM
Diesel Head
 
RammerJam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,593
Thanks: 103
Thanked 112 Times in 102 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatdarncat View Post
I have a 2017 6.7 2500, low miles around 11,500, it is my camper pulling machine and some occasional use to keep batteries in good shape etc. etc. Im looking to maintain my baby the best way possible

Question 1: Grid heater bolt, should I disconnect? I live in SC and it gets into the Teens- 20's on some winter mornings, ( rarely lower) but mostly the 30's-40's. Maybe a block heater option?

Question 2: I dont like it re-breathing its own poo-poo, cant be good for the engine. If any parts fall off I want to be sure to be able to put them back on for any reason. With that in mind I need a tune that is reliable and will keep everything in a factory like setting ( Im happy with the power it has, and have no desire to rip out my 68RFE). I would like to get it before these things completely disappear.
Leave it alone.
Thatdarncat and Gr8bawana like this.

2017 4X4 SLT Ram Big Horn 2500 SB Cummins
RammerJam is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to RammerJam For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 01:45 PM
Diesel Head
 
Ltngdrvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Southeast TX
Posts: 13,224
Thanks: 19
Thanked 2,237 Times in 1,672 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatdarncat View Post
I have a 2017 6.7 2500, low miles around 11,500, it is my camper pulling machine and some occasional use to keep batteries in good shape etc. etc. Im looking to maintain my baby the best way possible

Question 1: Grid heater bolt, should I disconnect? I live in SC and it gets into the Teens- 20's on some winter mornings, ( rarely lower) but mostly the 30's-40's. Maybe a block heater option?

Question 2: I dont like it re-breathing its own poo-poo, cant be good for the engine. If any parts fall off I want to be sure to be able to put them back on for any reason. With that in mind I need a tune that is reliable and will keep everything in a factory like setting ( Im happy with the power it has, and have no desire to rip out my 68RFE). I would like to get it before these things completely disappear.
First answer to both questions is, you still have a lot of remaining warranty, do you care about keeping it? If so, then don't do either change you are asking about. Any modifications you make can give FCA grounds for voiding the warranty.

Second answer is, I know that currently these grid heater failures are all the rage to get everyone's panties in a twist, overall though, very few failures have occurred compared to the number of trucks on the road. Chances are you'll never have any issue with it.

Third answer, the EGR system on DEF trucks only uses about a 1/3rd the amount as older non-DEF trucks use, and there isn't even any recommended EGR service interval anymore, like there used to be on the non-DEF trucks.

My truck is 5 years old, with 504.5K miles, and all original systems are still in place and operating as designed.
Jumpinjoe and Gr8bawana like this.

2015 RAM 2500 LoneStar Mega Cab CTD 2WD Air Ride PRAIRIE PEARLCOAT 02/09/2015
CCV reset/seatbelt chime disable https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...tml?highlight=
Ltngdrvr is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to Ltngdrvr For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 05:36 PM
Diesel Head
 
RammerJam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,593
Thanks: 103
Thanked 112 Times in 102 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltngdrvr View Post
First answer to both questions is, you still have a lot of remaining warranty, do you care about keeping it? If so, then don't do either change you are asking about. Any modifications you make can give FCA grounds for voiding the warranty.

Second answer is, I know that currently these grid heater failures are all the rage to get everyone's panties in a twist, overall though, very few failures have occurred compared to the number of trucks on the road. Chances are you'll never have any issue with it.

Third answer, the EGR system on DEF trucks only uses about a 1/3rd the amount as older non-DEF trucks use, and there isn't even any recommended EGR service interval anymore, like there used to be on the non-DEF trucks.

My truck is 5 years old, with 504.5K miles, and all original systems are still in place and operating as designed.
Yeah, well -- We're all pretty sure you made a deal with the devil

2017 4X4 SLT Ram Big Horn 2500 SB Cummins
RammerJam is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to RammerJam For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 06:31 PM
Diesel Head
 
Ltngdrvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Southeast TX
Posts: 13,224
Thanks: 19
Thanked 2,237 Times in 1,672 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by RammerJam View Post
Yeah, well -- We're all pretty sure you made a deal with the devil
Well, if I did, then boy-oh-boy it sure was a crappy deal!
RammerJam and Thatdarncat like this.

2015 RAM 2500 LoneStar Mega Cab CTD 2WD Air Ride PRAIRIE PEARLCOAT 02/09/2015
CCV reset/seatbelt chime disable https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...tml?highlight=
Ltngdrvr is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to Ltngdrvr For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 07:45 PM
Diesel Head
 
Jimmy N.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: The actual Midwest
Posts: 10,352
Thanks: 340
Thanked 586 Times in 540 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
And when you disconnect the grid heater (why wouldn't you?), do it at the battery instead of at the solenoid.
Easier to get to, and safer.

Oh, and to be nice to the batteries, get a BatteryMINDer or some other maintainer with desulfation. Less cold starts, better for the batteries.
HeavyTwo and Thatdarncat like this.

Maybe if we start telling people that the brain is an app, they will start using it?

'14 1500 V6, '17 3500 C&C, plus a '19 3500 6.4 in the household.
Jimmy N. is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to Jimmy N. For This Useful Post:
Thatdarncat (01-19-2020)
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 20
Thanks: 52
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy N. View Post
And when you disconnect the grid heater (why wouldn't you?), do it at the battery instead of at the solenoid.
Easier to get to, and safer.

Oh, and to be nice to the batteries, get a BatteryMINDer or some other maintainer with desulfation. Less cold starts, better for the batteries.
I need to get to one, I e already had to replace both batteries after 18 months. When I bought the truck, they put in two brand new ones on the dealership lot. One battery went bad and the dealership only replaced the bad one. So I took both out and replaced with two new ones. Sometimes the truck might sit around for 2 weeks before I warm her up.
Thatdarncat is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 12:07 PM
Diesel Head
 
Jimmy N.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: The actual Midwest
Posts: 10,352
Thanks: 340
Thanked 586 Times in 540 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
It should handle two weeks without any problems. We've had them sit for months, and only one time did a 2500 not want to start.
Of course, two things working against it was that it'd been cold (maybe in the teens for highs) and that it was a Laramie.
My Tradesman doesn't seem to care, unless I leave the MM3 plugged in. Then a battery maintainer every two weeks or so is helpful.

Maybe if we start telling people that the brain is an app, they will start using it?

'14 1500 V6, '17 3500 C&C, plus a '19 3500 6.4 in the household.
Jimmy N. is online now  
post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 02:02 PM
Diesel Head
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,743
Thanks: 138
Thanked 140 Times in 127 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by rentalguy1 View Post
Care to expand on that? I have all the original pieces that came off my truck. I can take pics and show you what the emissions systems can do in less than 20k miles. EGR half clogged. VGT clogged. But please, share your experience. I want to know why deleting and upgrading the turbo is such a horrible idea...

Because in 98% of all cases, deleting a truck based on unfounded fears of what "might" happen is internet hyperbole. Why someone would delete a new truck, still within the warranty period and who has not had any EGR/DEF related issues not covered by warranty is being completely irrational.

2016 3500 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab, Long Bed, SLT trim
5th Wheel Tow Pkg, Factory Rear Air Suspension
Delmonico Red
Minnow101 is offline  
post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 02:46 PM
Diesel Head
 
Jimmy N.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: The actual Midwest
Posts: 10,352
Thanks: 340
Thanked 586 Times in 540 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnow101 View Post
Why someone would delete a new truck, still within the warranty period and who has not had any EGR/DEF related issues not covered by warranty is being completely irrational.
Well, in my case the rationale was that my (already derated) C&C ran so poorly that it'd loose a drag race to a Toyota mini based motorhome.

Bought all the delete stuff, and then the C&C started running good. All by itself, so the delete stuff is still in its boxes.
Thatdarncat likes this.

Maybe if we start telling people that the brain is an app, they will start using it?

'14 1500 V6, '17 3500 C&C, plus a '19 3500 6.4 in the household.
Jimmy N. is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome