Join Date: May 2008
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
1. I haven't had a bad experience with the grid heater bolt problem, but I did add the block heater cable as soon as I bought the truck. Yours already has the heater installed. All you need is the cable which can be bought off of amazon a lot cheaper than through the dealership. I would suggest using some of that savings to buy a covered plug that can be easily installed in the lower valance. With the plug you don't have to dog around for the cable whenever you need to plug in and the install looks clean, almost as if the factory put it there. There will be a know-it-all or two on here that will post up telling you that you don't need to plug in at those temps, and they are actually correct. BUT, it sure is nice to hit that remote start button and hearing the beast come to life immediately instead of waiting for the pre-heat cycle to end. I don't live far from you, but it does get a little colder here in the NE TN mountains. Sometimes a lot colder. If the weather forecast says it will get to 32* or less overnight, I always plug her in before I go to bed. It's just easier on the equipment.
2. DISCLAIMER: It is highly illegal to modify your truck in any way that the Gestapo does not like, or may not like in the future. If you do so, the head tree hugger will automatically know it due to the spy software that is installed in your ECM, and they will descend upon you in black helicopters and smack you on the pee pee and try to rob your bank account. Proceed at your own peril and the knowledge that you will be a major contributor to Polar Bears not being able to catch and eat descendants of ice age squirrels due to a lack of polar ice, which is actually growing but we are forced to believe is shrinking because the head tree hugger and his minions are smarter and know better than us.
The emissions systems on this truck is exactly what kills them. That is, unless you are an old-hand, super-trucker that puts 3 bazillion miles on their truck a year while hauling 470,000 pounds of steel across the entire country seven times a day... you know, exactly what these trucks were designed for, which makes us that use them as a daily driver/toy hauler morons for not buying a gasser... but I digress, tuning won't kill the 68RFE. It is a person's driving style that will kill it. I have heard really good thing (on a daily basis), from the only person that I truly trust to work on my truck (me) about the EFI Live CSP-5 tuner. I have heard that you can also get a tune for the 68RFE with this setup that improves pressure management and the shift strategy of this transmission. The horespower and torque being delivered to the transmission will kill it if it is not managed. If you decide to go this route, I highly suggest getting an Edge CTS2 monitor and setting one of the parameters to monitor the transmission line pressure, and then setting an alarm to let you know when you are exceeding the maximum pressure the manufacturer suggests to never exceed. That way, as soon as you hear the little chirp you can back out of the skinny pedal just a bit and keep the trans happy. If you do this, you will probably have to adjust your driving style. You will have to re-learn to pull out easy, gently roll on the throttle until you get to third gear. You will also have to adjust to running in a lower gear at higher RPMs. The happy spot with this setup, while running around town, seems to be fourth gear with the converter locked up, about 1750 RPM and 45-50 MPH.
If you do decide to go this route, I also highly suggest throwing a little bit more money at it at the same time and adding an improved exhaust manifold, a fixed geometry turbo and an aftermarket exhaust brake. FYI: BD makes an air operated exhaust brake that works off the factory switch and is stronger than the stock version. You should also upgrade the head studs at this time. It isn't necessarily required, and you don't need to go over the top, but slightly higher strength ARP head studs will give you added piece of mind. All of this will cost quite a bit of money ($5000 +/- range) and completely void your worthless powertrain warranty, but if you intend to keep the truck forever (as I do), you won't even give this a second thought. Good luck!
2017 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4, Crew Cab, S&B CAI, BD Perf.+ex. man., BW S300SX-E turbo (64.5.mm), BD EB, ARP head studs, EFI Live CSP5 Tune & Trans Tune, MBRP Turbo back 5" exhaust w/MBRP Quiet Tone Muffler, Sinister EGR & Throttle Valve Deletes.