Considering Gears for 37's-- help if your geared or deleted - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING -

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 12:22 PM
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Nitro 4.30's


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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jroyster06 View Post
he said send it to a shop. Im having trouble finding a reputable shop around me.
The problem is 99% of shops arenít capable of or willing to do the job correctly. My advice is buy the tools and do it yourself so you know itís done right. AAMs are easy. They have screw adjusters on the carrier and use a crush sleeve on the pinion. Just take your time setting the pinion depth and the rest is easy. Yukon is what I use and they come with a pretty good instruction manual.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 07:04 PM
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3.42 with 37” tires with a tune is asking for problems, especially if you tow. If you can find a good shop, do gears. Having said that, I’m running 37” mud tires with 3.42, tuned, but I’m special.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 12:41 PM
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I went to 4.56 after reading a bunch of people here that said 4.10-4.56 wouldn't be a big difference. I tow a 10k trailer regularly in hilly areas, so I thought this would do me better... 75 MPH at 2000 rpms is a bit annoying when I'm not towing, but not unbearable. It has been amazing for towing. Driving up several grades that normally put me at about 1400 degrees, the temps never broke 1000 the last time I towed... and the exhaust brake is awesome now! If I had to do it again, I would go 4.10, but I don't regret my decision... I'm the guy who would have always thought, I wonder if it would have been better at 4.56...

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Welp fellas, I went right in the middle. I ordered nitro 4.30's on Friday. I decided on the 4.30 because after using a calculator, to hit stock numbers, I needed a 4.15. So 4.10 would have been fine but I figured with my heavy rolling stock and frequency of towing the boat in the summer, 4.30's will be the happy medium...

Also, decided to do it in my driveway. Buying a harbor freight press to do the job and am planning on the install on 1/4 due to my work schedule. It allows the wife and I to be home at the same time so she can take care of the babies while I work on the truck. Im excited but continuing to research.

The company tried selling me their oil for 250 bucks a case-. Problem is that I have mag tech covers. I plan to run a cheaper break in oil and run a quality oil after. Not 18 bucks a qt oil but I figure Mobile 1 will be fine for running. Hose brand oil will be the break in..
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2013 Mega Laramine longhorn. 6" BDS Long arm, 22" Hostages, 37x13.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Fusion Bumpers, Back flip, AMP steps, Mag-Hytech, 4.30's, rough crunchy steering stabilizer, Thuren Track bar 1 Piece aluminum Driveshaft.... 3 previous cummins
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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FWIW I have 37's and I went Nitro 4.30's as a compromise between the 4.10 and 4.56. 40k on them now. Broke in according to spec. No issues and happy with my choice. Just my experience.
Thats the route im going...
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2013 Mega Laramine longhorn. 6" BDS Long arm, 22" Hostages, 37x13.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Fusion Bumpers, Back flip, AMP steps, Mag-Hytech, 4.30's, rough crunchy steering stabilizer, Thuren Track bar 1 Piece aluminum Driveshaft.... 3 previous cummins
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 10:00 PM
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Definitely appreciate the info that you have supplied!

I was an idiot and did things in a backwards order, if I was to do it again gears would have been #1 on my list.

I deleted my truck first, then added in a billet valve body, I am finally looking at gears...

I currently run 35's, tow <10k infrequently. I am probably going to go with the AAM 4.30s you linked. I was curious though, what would it cost per axle to have someone do this? I figured just in materials I will have $1500, then another $600 or so in labor?

Currently searching for shops in my area to have it taken care of in the upcoming months.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 01:36 AM
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Deleting and gears are two completely different things. Gears first, then delete. Youíll love it

Get some
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 08:57 AM
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Deleting and gears are two completely different things. Gears first, then delete. Youíll love it

I already screwed that order up, I am deleted and have the valve body already... I didn't do my research before hand, I just kept hearing everyone say delete it, its the best thing you can do... We'll I don't dislike it but I think gears would have been the right call.

I am just trying to collect the funds to have the gears done. I'm not sure what a fair rate is to have someone install them, what would a fair price be per axle?

parts and what not seem to run $1200 to $1500 (for the pair).
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 12:05 PM
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Check out C&M Gearworks. Good Pricing. I'm going to have mine done soon and 1300 for both install only.

2018 Ram Big Horn. Crew Cab Short Box. 6.7Ltr. 68 RFE. Thuren Suspension, 4.10 AAM Gears
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 12:17 PM
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OP, could you please try to do a write up for us? I know Nick did one and it's great but he also had a master mechanic helping him. Be good for me at least to see how hard it is for the "average joe" to complete in their driveway.

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 12:44 PM
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OP, could you please try to do a write up for us? I know Nick did one and it's great but he also had a master mechanic helping him. Be good for me at least to see how hard it is for the "average joe" to complete in their driveway.
I can tell you it f'n sucks if you have never done it before, or it's cold, or you turn 4* too far and over-crush the crush sleeve. Basically, it sucks....but I'd do it all over again.

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