This place is a damned curse - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING - Sponsored by: StarLite Diesel

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post #1 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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This place is a damned curse

, just saying. I’ve had no issues with my grid heater. All the sudden the Cummins forum engineers wanna fix the possible issue and this morning, p2609!!!!!

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post #2 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 10:58 AM
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Clean the terminals on the relay for the heater under the passenger side battery and put dialectic grease on them. That seems to resolve these grid heater codes. It did for me.

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post #3 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Start easy first, I get it thanks

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post #4 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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FYI the jiggle test proves a solid connection at heater

--2015 2500, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, G56, Maximum Steel
- To Do List, 6" suspension,37" tires,4.56 Gears
--2006 2500 4x4 4 door long bed auto, 8" BDS, 37s
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post #5 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjgoode View Post
Clean the terminals on the relay for the heater under the passenger side battery and put dialectic grease on them. That seems to resolve these grid heater codes. It did for me.
How hard is it to access this relay

--2015 2500, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, G56, Maximum Steel
- To Do List, 6" suspension,37" tires,4.56 Gears
--2006 2500 4x4 4 door long bed auto, 8" BDS, 37s
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post #6 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:46 AM
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This place is a damned curse

My relay is easy to get to. It is extremely visible under the passenger battery. Just off to the side. I can pull it out easily flat footed standing on the ground. I am disconnecting the outbound positive cable today before the truck sees another key cycle. I am just not going to mess with it anymore. I have been turning the key without waiting for over a year with no ill effects. But, i recently found this still cycles the grid heater once idling. I just skipped the pre heat cycle. I want it to not cycle at all.
Is there a better way? At least while under warranty?
If i were you K9 and got that code i would not be able to resist tearing all the way into it to make sure that bolt is intact. That code is a sign it is failing IIRC. If you remove the cable that code wont pop anymore but the bolt could still drop into number six given the fact you got the code signaling an issue. Also, IIRC you will get a code once you disconnect unless you turn the key immediately before the wait to start light goes out. I am thinking not cycling the grid heater will help my batteries last longer also.
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post #7 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:52 AM
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Ha! Any knowledge beyond push button, pull lever, step on pedal IS a curse you will never break!!

Considering the propensity for that innocuous little bolt to totally ruin the holidays, and your wallet thickness, the FIRST thing I would do is pull the plenum cover and grid heater to see what it looks like. A proactive exercise will make the holidays a LOT more enjoyable.
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post #8 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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I gotta crack fuel lines and such to do that right ?

--2015 2500, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, G56, Maximum Steel
- To Do List, 6" suspension,37" tires,4.56 Gears
--2006 2500 4x4 4 door long bed auto, 8" BDS, 37s
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post #9 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:59 AM
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This place is a damned curse

This forum is a curse. But, i cant tell you how much i have saved working on my own trucks with the advice from members here. Most drivers never know they could lose a motor or the head with such a stupid bolt design. They just get out their credit card at the dealership and spend months paying for a repair which is avoidable.
If they are at least educated to the issue they may be able to get it warrantied or hold onto their receipts if a recall is ever issued for a reimbursement.
Head in the sand is definitely the way to live life stress free. It just costs a lot more money.
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post #10 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 12:00 PM
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This place is a damned curse

Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Kodi View Post
I gotta crack fuel lines and such to do that right ?


Gotta remove all lines except maybe one. Just do it. I think some have left #6 and some were not able to. Out of warranty i will remove mine. Or if i get the pending death code.
You could check connections etc. but in the end of the day you will never know for sure what caused the code until you get eyes on the stud/nut.

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post #11 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 12:17 PM
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What do the terminals look like on your relay? Are they dirty or corroded? Mine look new and clean but we donít get snow or salt and i never take the truck near saltwater. Thats one variable i know nothing about since terminals here last forever. If they are bad do like the other poster said and clean them. I just know for me i could not rest until seeing that bolt unless corrosion was obvious or i could find a sure sign of a failure point. My advice just applies to what i see here and what i would do. Tearing in, making the repair and removing the grid heater for good, and reassembling everything would likely take me a day, but i am slow.

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post #12 of 121 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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The wire going to the grid header near the intake manifold is clean and tight. Doesn’t have any wiggle but has some flex as I would expect a plastic stud/tab to allow. I will check the relay when I get home.

--2015 2500, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, G56, Maximum Steel
- To Do List, 6" suspension,37" tires,4.56 Gears
--2006 2500 4x4 4 door long bed auto, 8" BDS, 37s
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