Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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^ FWIW, I've changed alot of oil too, fleets of trucks.
IMO, I'd never use loctite on a diff cover. 1. It's in a corrosive environment area, so over the years, it's likely to get it's own brown loctite (rust). 2. the chances of getting every hole completely clean of lube so the loctite works is alot of work and of diminishing returns in this case. 3. It's not like if a bolt comes loose, it's a catastrophic failure (and through many years and many more vehicles than years, this has never been an issue I recall). Couple bolts loosen up, worst case is a little drip, you see it, tighten them, loctite em if it were to actually vibrate loose again.
In general, from growing up working on cars in the rust belt both personally and as an early career choice, I typically only loctite internal parts (can't get back to em without disassembly of ____) if called for.
On older wore out equipment, sometimes there's that odd bolt that likes to vibrate itself loose and needs glued in.
90% of all nuts and bolts on undercarriages get anti seize or at least some grease on them in anything I work on. Wheel lugs, brake calipers, driveshafts, etc. You tend to learn what rusts together by broken knuckles and rounded bolt heads and snapped bolts and try to prevent those being future occurrences.
And I'd put some good syn gear oil in it and run 50-75k miles before I thought about changing it again.
07 5.9 Mega, G56, SB Single disk Ceramic clutch, OE 1 piece Al driveshaft, 60hp Industrial injectors, Triple dog, Glacier 2mic filter, BD exhaust brake, ATI Super Damper, BD steering brace, Firestone bags, Big Wig swaybar, 4th Gen 20s and some home made Stableloads.