Removed Zone 4.5in Kit and installed Thuren... - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING - Sponsored by: StarLite Diesel

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yes that is where the Zone one I had on before pointed. More to the left of the track bar bolt.... but now that I am lower I need to remove the zone one and go back to OEM.

The stock one I have ( the part number cast into it matches the above part number for OEM) points more towards the right with the steering wheel straight. It has 4 keys. If I take both pitman arms and I line the OEM one up over the Zone one by the keyways ... and say the Zone one is 12 o clock... the OEM one I have points at like 12:05. Is that right?

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 04:40 PM
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Making sure the wheel is centered left to right, also correct number of turns lockout to lockout, I would install Pittman arm and adjust draglink as needed. If they can’t figure it out something is very wrong or they haven’t a clue what they are doing.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 04:41 PM
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It is the factory drag link right? There should be more then enough adjustment in it especially if your just going back to stock. Should be easy day. It also shouldn’t be much further off then it is now bc the drop Pittman arm is supposed to drop down almost where the factory one was. Are they installing the tre on the correct side of Pittman arm

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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He said I had like 3 turns one way and only 3/4ish of a turn the other way... also said he has been doing alignments for 25 years...

So if the 3 turns one way and 3/4 turns the other way is correct... it sounds like he just needs to spin my steering wheel a full turn before putting the pitman arm on right?

How many degrees does the pitman arm sweep from left to right?

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOx View Post
He said I had like 3 turns one way and only 3/4ish of a turn the other way... also said he has been doing alignments for 25 years...

So if the 3 turns one way and 3/4 turns the other way is correct... it sounds like he just needs to spin my steering wheel a full turn before putting the pitman arm on right?

How many degrees does the pitman arm sweep from left to right?
I have never done a pitarm on my ram but I have done full steering on a 66 mustang and 94 F150. Hopefully this is helpful knowledge. But I always counted the turns in the steering wheel, then divided by two and rotated the steering wheel to that number and held the wheel in place with a tie down. Then installed all my suspension parts and had an alignment shop do the alignment. I never had an issue. But if you have 3 turns one direction and 3/4 the other with the wheels straight that’s not right. I would think taking the pit arm off and making sure the steering box is half way through and reinstalling will fix all these issues.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:19 PM
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Seems to me if you have a stock pitman arm and a stock drag link, the two should work together. Is one end of the drag link turned further into the sleeve than the other? That would reduce the adjustment range.

I did not realize the drag link ends had tabs on them. I assume that is to keep the two ends aligned. If that is the reason, your shop needs to be very careful to align the ends so they do not bind when the suspension flexes. I don't know if they are in the same plane when correct or if they are offset when correct.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:28 PM
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Is your shops goal to have a straight pitman arm or a straight wheel with the same number of turns each side?

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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I am hoping the later...

I am assuming the different clocking of the stock to drop pitman arm is normal then... Hopefully, he gets it right this time. I think the manual on the shop computer was confusing him. He was adjusting the Tie Rod which was only adjusting the toe on the drivers side. He needed to probably do nothing with the Tie Rod and only adjust the length of the Drag Link.

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:11 AM
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Tie rod will need adjustment as your caster will change a little. But first thing would have been to get new Pittman arm on, I suggest leaving tie rod alone, center steering wheel, adjust drag link and get the truck to a reputable shop and give him thurens alignment specs. A shop that uses experience rather then a computer to tell them
What tolerances and measurements to use

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOx View Post
I am hoping the later...

I am assuming the different clocking of the stock to drop pitman arm is normal then... Hopefully, he gets it right this time. I think the manual on the shop computer was confusing him. He was adjusting the Tie Rod which was only adjusting the toe on the drivers side. He needed to probably do nothing with the Tie Rod and only adjust the length of the Drag Link.


Proper procedure is bring total toe to 0.00 and then once that’s set. Leave it (tie rod) alone. Then adjust the adjuster sleeve on your drag link that has two bolts, one on each side. If steering wheel is really out of whack then remove drag link from pitman arm. Straighten wheel. Then reattach drag link to pitman arm. Then fine tune with sleeve
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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That is what I was expecting him to do, and what I told him to do when I went over there yesterday. Keep your fingers crossed...

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:18 PM
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Order a synergy drag link and throw that old one out. First of all its a defective product and the recall will wants it to be welded, but worst yet yours has been modified for the first pitman arm change. For $300 for a new better drag link seems like a no brainer.

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