2500 Laramie Oil Change - through wheel well or take air intake off of turbo? - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2013-2018 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 2013 model year differences 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING - Sponsored by: StarLite Diesel

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 03:14 PM
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You don't need a bag or any filter cap, or any special tools when you go through the top. No reaching through some hole in the fenderwell, that on auto trans trucks is partially blocked by the cooler lines.

But, as I have stated before, to each his own.

I, personally, find it much easier, cleaner, easier to see what I'm doing, by going through the top.


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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianF View Post
Yep, pick your poison. I chose to remove the intake ducting. While I have only done a few changes thus far, I do not mind it and probably will not deviate from it.

I am also the guy that likes to inspect the truck as I work on it. The more I get my hands on, the more I can check things out.
Ditto! Pick your poison! The "easier" way is just a matter of personal preference.

Helped a friend do it from the "top" one time. I prefer the wheel well--for me it's just less hassle. I just sit on a small garage stool for the entire oil filter R&R. 5-minutes and I'm done. No high altitude nose-bleeds from having to climb up high on top of the engine--lol!

If you choose the wheel well method, highly recommend investing in a filter plug to guarantee yourself zero drama for each and every oil filter change. Check out the plastic Lisle 57180 filter plugs. They're cheaper than the aluminum versions and work just fine. Yes, you can use zip lock bags if your tranny lines aren't too close together. However, if your tranny lines are especially close, they will tear those zip lock bags (even when they're double bagged). When they tear you will have one hell of a mess on your hands.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 06:34 PM
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I'm 6'1 and have, as some would say, long ganglion arms, not caveman like but close. With a stool I can hover over top the engine bay and have easy access to R&R the filter. Now it wasn't until the 3rd change that I actually made a mess under the hood. Bumped the half full filter when bringing it under the hood. Oil everywhere. Did what I thought was a good job draining the front filter. Not the case, popped the filter out and fuel all over the damn place. Good help is hard to find these days...

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 08:55 PM
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If you look at the filter installed through the wheel well you will see it has a slant. The bottom of the filter tilts forward towards the bumper/radiator. The first time i tried to go through the wheel well i could not get the filter started. Once i realized it had a slant i can hit the threads perfectly every time, even blindly.
I also found that on my past 14 and current 15 i can slip the filter through the opening real easily if the base goes in the cutout first and has an upwards slant. Slips right in easily then i rotate it to the platform below to remove the Genos tool.
I have never worried about any dirt getting in the filter. By the time it gets installed i have cleaned the base and all around everything i can touch. It helps to keep the engine bay clean as well. If you donít clean the motor you do not love your truck.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 11:00 PM
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"there is a spring clamp for the crankcase vent tube, squeeze it with pliers and slip it down the hose"

On my 2016, the spring clamp for the crankcase vent tube had rubber molded around it and could not be moved without cutting the rubber away first.

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terb View Post
"there is a spring clamp for the crankcase vent tube, squeeze it with pliers and slip it down the hose"

On my 2016, the spring clamp for the crankcase vent tube had rubber molded around it and could not be moved without cutting the rubber away first.
Sorry, forgot about that, first thing I did when I took it off the first time was cut the rubber retainer off. That's been quite a long time ago, and many oil changes.

You can cut the rubber retainer off before taking the clamp loose the first time.

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:41 AM
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Do you guys like Fords...or Chevy's?

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf6175 View Post
You do not even need that tool. Use a ZIPLOCK bag. Using a filter wrench loosen the old filter slightly so you can now spin it off by hand. STOP. Take filter wrench off and slide ziplock bag up over filter. Spin it so it drops in the ziplock. Close ziplock and pull out. If you have OCD condition like me and need to fill some oil in new filter just reverse the procedure using a second zip lock.
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I beg to differ. I used a ziplock the first few times. I snagged it on the way out the last time and got oil all over the place. I then bought the screw-on cap.

I have no problem going through the wheelwell except I don't much care for pushing a clean filter up into a spot I cannot see. Every time I do it I think there could be some debris/dirt that gets knocked off of something and it falls into the filter unknown and unseen.

I did the same thing. Ended up buying the filter cap thing, ripping that stupid plastic tray out of there and have been happy going thru the fender.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 05:42 PM
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I didn't remove anything and can remove the filter through the wheel-well in about one minute.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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HUGE thanks to everyone for the feedback! After reading all the posts and in particular Jared Herzog's post I am confident that I will have a better experience going through the wheel well for my next oil change. The advice to notice that the oil filter is tilted will make all the difference in the world as I had a heck of a time last time getting the filter to start threading as I must have been holding the filter straight up and down instead of angled. I found last time once the filter is off it is impossible for me to see the threads. I know people recommend trying to clean the base where the filter is attached, but it is a blind task and I would rather leave it alone instead of getting dirt or something on the base that could fall into the center of the filter and straight into the engine.

I appreciate all the advice, but after reviewing the comments I am not sure if I am comfortable going under the hood and taking things apart - the less things come apart the better in my experience.

Thanks everyone!!
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:04 PM
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If that stupid gap in the wheel well for the filter was just 1/2 inch bigger there would be no problem. I use the wheel well exit.

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:20 PM
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There's another reason for getting the tool to cap the filter when going through the wheelwell hole. The t-handle makes pulling the filter out through the tight hole in amongst the hard lines a piece of cake... rather than trying to keep an oily grip on it with fingertips.

I found it very difficult to align the first time. Thereafter, it just seems to slip into place. I guess it's just a question of getting the right feel for it.

Do those of you who go through the fenderwell pull the right front wheel? I find that my lift/tire combination is just right to look like there's enough room when there really isn't...

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