Battery question - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Battery question

For years i have needed 12v dc power in the bed of my trucks to run agitators in fish tanks in the bed and i have always essentially cannibalized a heavy duty extension cord and hooked it to my trucks battery positive and negative terminals and grounded the ground wire on a metal to metal bolt somewhere. Then run the cord to the bed of the truck to an outlet and mount it to a headache rack. This being my first deisel i am unsure which battery i need to use or if it matters. I went ahead and hooked it up to the drivers side and it seemed to work fine but im curious if the other battery would be better. Theres less stuff hooked up to the passenger side battery but theres also more hot parts on that side that i dont want the cord to be close to. Got ideas? Oh and ive had battery "professionals" tell me how im ruining the battery in my truck by doing this but trust me guys we.ve been doing it for years on many trucks and we have never once had a battery fail in an unusually short amount of time.


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:08 PM
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The truck's batteries are connected together in parallel, makes no difference which one you hook any accessories to.

But, as to 12v power in the bed, if you have the trailer prep, then there is a constant hot in the trailer plug that's already in the bed.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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I wish i had the trailer prep. But unfortunately i bought mine off the lot without it.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Abell34 View Post
I wish i had the trailer prep. But unfortunately i bought mine off the lot without it.
Well, all the trucks have the trailer plug in the bumper, you could tap into it there.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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True. May still do that thanks for the battery info.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:06 PM
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I doubt thereís enough amperage in the trailer plug to run multiple aerators.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jhenderson View Post
I doubt there’s enough amperage in the trailer plug to run multiple aerators.
It gets direct battery power, so should be as good as running a new wire to the battery. Has enough power to operate trailer brakes, hydraulic pumps that operate RV trailer slide outs, so should be enough.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ltngdrvr View Post
It gets direct battery power, so should be as good as running a new wire to the battery. Has enough power to operate trailer brakes, hydraulic pumps that operate RV trailer slide outs, so should be enough.
1st, those are each separate circuits from the 12 volt keyed circuit. 2nd the high amp trailer slide outs are powered by the trailer battery which is recharged from the keyed 12 volt circuit. Do you realize how long it takes for that light gage wire to transmit enough juice to recharge the trailer battery after the slides are all run in or out? 3rd we donít know how many amps the aerators draw.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I also doubt that a tapped power source would be ideal. Hence the extension cord. Plus no wire splicing. It works fine as is. Ive wired them with and without fuses never had an issue i was just wondering if the batteries had different functions or as stated were just ran parralel for shared duty. Appreciate the knowledge

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ltngdrvr View Post
It gets direct battery power, so should be as good as running a new wire to the battery. Has enough power to operate trailer brakes, hydraulic pumps that operate RV trailer slide outs, so should be enough.
Maybe, maybe NOT....
The only way to tell for sure is by knowing what the amp load the OP wants to run off that circuit and then determine if the trailer plug charge wire is large enough to SAFELY handle that current.
Also importantly, given the sensitivity and complexity of the newer can bus elcrcial systems, IMO it would be best to run a separate fused wire from the batteries just to keep the oem trailer wiring safe from auxiliary loads so that just in case something happens to the added circuit/equipment, the trucks wiring remains safely functioning and undisturbed.

Just my .02

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhenderson View Post
1st, those are each separate circuits from the 12 volt keyed circuit. 2nd the high amp trailer slide outs are powered by the trailer battery which is recharged from the keyed 12 volt circuit. Do you realize how long it takes for that light gage wire to transmit enough juice to recharge the trailer battery after the slides are all run in or out? 3rd we donít know how many amps the aerators draw.
I run trailer slide outs often with no battery in the trailer, just plugged into the truck socket.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:15 PM
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I also doubt that a tapped power source would be ideal. Hence the extension cord. Plus no wire splicing. It works fine as is. Ive wired them with and without fuses never had an issue i was just wondering if the batteries had different functions or as stated were just ran parralel for shared duty. Appreciate the knowledge

"It works fine" is definitely different then adding electrical accessories and/or wiring safely with the understanding that when something with one of your air pumps/agitators DOES go wrong (dead short), you don't bunt your truck down with it.

That being said, of course it is your truck and your money so you should do as you wish.

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