So after months of research I finally bought everything and deleted my truck. I figured I would do a whole write up on the process because I had a lot of questions that the answers to were scattered. I have a 2016 2500 with 20000 miles on it now, the reason I deleted was only to get rid of the emissions I wasn't looking for a ton of power. The reason I wanted to get rid of the stuff was my drive to work is about 10 min which during the summer was fine because I tow a lot but during the other 7 month the truck never got a chance to get hot so I was constantly in regen mode, my fuel economy was down to 11 mpg and always trying to run hot. So I decided to go for it.
So my shopping list-
Edge cts2 with cummins delete-$387 @ diesel ops on Xmas sale -product # EDG-84132
Edge EAS egt probe $120 @ diesel ops- #EDG-98603
Motor ops efi live optimized stock single tune auto cal with transmission tune- $955 @ diesel ops- #MOP-CMM-1316 & MOP-68RFE-Tuning
Deviant egr cooler delete with coolant reroute $187 @ diesel ops -product #DRP-87110
4" Flo pro SS delete pipes $239 @ diesel ops- #FLO-SS868NB
XDP throttle valve delete $62 # xd211 sidenote the bolts this comes with is a 16th to long had to use couple washers. from XDP WEBSITE
XDP special exhaust tip $40
FTE SS resonator 17" $109 before shipping- #RM4417SS from FTE website
Flow master hush power muffler $209 @ amazon- #HP-14020100
3 4" lap joint exhaust band clamps $39 Amazon
Gallon of 10year 100000 mile concentrate antifreeze from the ram dealer $27
1gal of distilled water
Non delete related -steering box stabilizer from hellbent steel 160 shipped. Well worth it really tighten the steering up, more so because it adds a cross member at the front of the frame.
I bought most of my stuff from diesel ops because you get store credit for buying stuff and also they were the cheapest when I bought my edge cts2 but from what I read the cts2 gave egt info which it does but the egt1 is after the turbo. So I left a review on diesel ops to warn other and ended up winning $1000 For leaving a review.
So for 2013+ trucks before you can flash them you have to unlock the ecm using a edge or bully dog or gdp unlock, only if you are tuning using autocals. If you go with ezlynk, mm3, raceme ultra the box for that system will unlock the truck for you. I decided to go with the auto cal because I drive like I have miss Dasiy in the back seat and I was just trying to get rid of the EGR, SCR, DPF So I went with a single tune auto cal.
I didn't like the mm3 or raceme because it resends the tune file every time you start the vehicle I didn't really like the idea of that. Not sure if it really makes a difference.
The ezlynk was just way more then what I needed. Kind of new technology for people that are constantly changing tunes and need tweaking, seems like a very nice system tho.
As far as unlocking goes it's super easy just plug the cts2 into the OBD2 and connect the unlock cable to the port in the engine bay. That's supposed to say front fuel filter.
Under performance setting on the CTS2 is unlock option, follow the steps it will guide you and when it's done you can ebay the unlock cable because you won't need it anymore. Took about 20min to unlock. In the PIDS for the cts2 there are 5 egt options, #1 is post turbo and the rest is further down the exhaust. So you can't actually get header egt until you install a egt probe.
Next was the tuning, it's a very good idea to tune your truck and make sure it drives okay before you pull everything off. The tuning was very easy just pull the cts2 out of the OBD2 port and plug in the efi live autocal follow the manual on how to tune, took about 15min not really much for you to do expect wait. After tuning was complete it doesn't tell you it was successful or anything just tells you to turn off ignition, wait 10sec and then just goes back to full program menu. Not sure if all tuners are the same, this is for motor ops tuners.
Once tuning was done I remove the auto cal from the obd2 and unplugged the four plugs in the engine bay. On the driver side, one is on the egr tube crossing the front of the motor, one on the valve itself on the intake
, one on the throttle valve intake side just bellow the egr valve
and the last one on the passenger side on the egr bypass motor.
Turned the truck on and noticed the DEF tank showed empty which meant the tuning was successful. Went for a drive and everything ran perfect so it was time to pull stuff off.
I wasn't planning on doing it all in one day so I started with the exhaust because you can drive around with the egr in place but not the exhaust, it will plug up without regen.
I was expecting a real fight with the exhaust so to make life easy I went and bought a compact impact wrench from harbor freight. Some earth quake xt something rather, well worth it. This thing is 2.4 pounds half the length of a normal impact wrench and packs a good punch for $100.
Made taking exhaust bolts off super easy. I started with the tail pipe kroiled the hell out of the hangers which are right above the axle.
If you follow the tail pipe towards the front after it goes up over the axle and back down there is a clamp, i loosened that, grabbed the end of the tail pipe and pulled while twisting it back forth till it split at the clamp. I didn't take the tail pipe all the way off.
After that I unplugged everything on the SCR 4 plugs and the DEF line right at the front of the SCR. To get that def line off just squeeze the clip towards each other and pull up.
Towards the back of the SCR the last sensor goes to a box bolted onto the frame, I just unplugged that and unbolted the box from the frame and took it off with the scr.
I had a transmission jack which I strapped the SCR to before taking off the 4 bolts that connect it to the dpf. If you don't support the SCR it will probably snap the bolts as you loosen them that thing has some weight to it.
With the SCR out of the way it was very easy to get the DPF out without having to screw around with the cross member. The DPF has 3 plugs to take off, I unplugged those, left the DPF hanging on the hangers and unbolted from the down pipe. The gasket in between can get ruined in the process so make sure you order another gasket. Flex-pro 61744.
Once the DPF is out of the way putting in the exhaust is pretty simple. Just straight pipe is loud and had tons or drone noise in the cab. So I added the FTE resonator after the down pipe flange but before the first hanger. The 17" resonator fit right in there without a problem. I connected the rest of the exhaust and went for a drive, the drone was gone but still was pretty loud. The exhaust brake sounded awesome tho, more like a jet motor start up.
It was still to loud for me so i put in the hush power muffler.
The delete kit comes with 2 sections of 4", 2 exhaust band clamps, and a hanger clamp that can go anywhere on the pipe. The first piece bolts on and is straight the second piece however has a slight bend in it to line up with the factory tail pipe. Very important to keep this bend or nothing will line up and you'll end up with the tip of your exhaust looking funny.
So to install the muffler I cut part of the first section off after the welded on hanger so that the second section which is spread to allow the pieces to fit, sits almost up against the weld on the hanger on the first piece.
I took the second piece once again and cut it about 6" inches ish after the bend that allows 3" to go into the muffler which is just barely larger then the 4" pipe. After that I measured from the end of the muffler to the inlet of the tail pipe cut a section of the pipe that was remaining and put the clamps on.
Fired it up and it was perfect, just a tad louder then stock no noise in the cab and no drone noise at all.
When cutting the exhaust just make sure to account for the few inches that goes into the FTE and the muffler.
I also did that throttle valve delete the same day . I read a lot of stories where people had weird issues with their delete weeks after that were caused by the factory throttle valve some how closing. If you are doing just a basic delete there is no performance gain from doing the throttle valve delete just a piece of mind. If that valve some how shuts at 3k rpm it will do some damage to the motor.
The throttle valve delete was very easy took only half hour once I found the 4th bolt. The three are very easy to find the 4th one on the back side sits almost flush with the throttle valve body. I had to shove my camera in there for find the bolt and then used a 1/4 deep socket to get it out. I think they were a 10mm.
Once I got the factory one off I had to take a razor knife to the old gasket to clean it up, made sure to not to get any in the intake hose. Putting the XDP throttle valve delete on was easy expect the bolts were a 16th to long so I just added a couple extra washers to each bolt.
Reconnected the intake hose put the heat shield back on and was done.
Then came the dreaded EGR delete. I was surprised how easily the cooler came out, It took me way longer to put delete kit on.
For the EGR the driver side is pretty self explanatory four bolts and a V clamp and drive side is off. There is a small bolt under the egr pipe in the very front of the motor kind of a pain to get. another V band clamp and the pipe comes out. There is two nuts that hold the heat shield on I removed those and then the bolts behind it. The front of these top bolts are where the heat shield nuts were screwed onto.
Removed the bottom two bolts and then 4 bolts on the butter fly motor and that whole assembly came off.
From there i took off the bolt on the side of the cooler that holds the coolant line in place and the nut holding the transmission dip stick.
The coolant line comes off very easily they are just o ring press fit so just wiggled it and popped right off. Removed the other hose crossing over the cooler for the breather line. Made sure to cover that up so no coolant gets into the turbo intake.
Took off the four bolts on the straps over the egr cooler and then the very back two nuts. Just a 15mm deep socket with a short extension it is pretty tight but not difficult at all.
Another v clamp and the whole cooler came out pretty easily. Then took off the two nuts under the cooler holder took that out and then the last two nuts on the piece in front of the cooler.
The very front nut is hard to get to any other way. If you take the egr cooler out it's very easy to get to the front nut on the motor side the one most people complain about.
Once everything was off putting the delete kit on took me forever, one because I was pretty tired I was doing this late at night and second the instructions sucked. If I was doing it over i would have relocated the coolant nipple to the 5th cylinder before putting any of the egr delete back on. It's kind of weird but you take the coolant nipple off that the egr cooler was going to on the engine block, plug that hole with the plug from the kit and then take out the plug between cylinder 5 and 6 should just be a 3/8 ratchet fitting remove the factory o ring from that nipple and put it into the spot you opened between cylinder 5 and 6. Lucky I had a 25mm wrench and it was slow going. After that I loosened the exhaust pressure sensor
on the header so I could rotate the thing, it gets pushed forward towards the cab and has a spot on the new bracket. The coolant nipple that comes with the kit gets installed in the coolant supply with two o rings.
To install the new bracket I took off the top bolt on the header at cylinder #4 used the factory spacer on the all thread that came with the kit screwed in into the cylinder #4 hole in the header so it felt like I had enough of a bite then put the nut on till it was tight against the factory spacer. On the end of the all thread goes another spacer that will position the bracket and then a nut to hold the bracket.
Once the bracket was on the pressure sensor gets bolted into the hole closest to the cab. The hole above it gets the transmission dip stick and the hole after it gets the coolant line bracket bolted to it with a spacer.
A week after doing the delete I decided I didn't like the motoops trans tune because it was way to aggressive for me. It held 3rd gear till almost 40mph which when driving around town sucked. If I was doing 35mph and let off the throttle it would snap my head forward and when you touch the throttle it would snap it backwards. Some people might like it, I personally didn't care much for it I enjoyed the somewhat smooth ride.
I got a hold of motor ops to see if I could get the shift points changed and ended up with 40 emails back and forth over a month and a half and multiple different tune files that didn't get me what I wanted.
Motor ops customer service was very frustrating in their lack of communication I would ask the guy questions and he would just ignore my questions and send me more tune files that would cause my transmission to do all sorts of weird things.
After being fed up I asked for just a optimized stock tune without trans tune which they sent me. I loaded that on went for a drive with my wife and kids only to hear a noise that I had never heard.
It was a rattling sound that was very noticeable through all gears and all rpms even my wife asked if that was normal. I contacted motor ops about it because it would only sound like that with the tuning that didnt have trans tune and surprise no response. After switching back and forth between tune with trans and tune without and deciding it was the tuning causing it I was completely fed up I started thinking about putting everything back on and putting the truck back to stock. I decided to look into that sound and found other people with the same issue which by the way is a timing issue and came across HPP tuning.
At this point I had to decide wither to put more money into this project or just say screw it.
After speaking with Brandon at HPP I decided to take the leap of faith and bought HPP tuning. I got lucky in that motor ops allowed me to unlock the auto cal from them and load on HPP tuning.
WOW what a difference, the truck sounded so much better the noise I was hearing went way the engine noise at idle sounded like stock and the exhaust was way quieter.
The next morning I remote started my truck walked out side and noticed the exhaust brake wasn't on even tho the button was pushed. I contracted HPP and the same day Brandon sent out a new tune file, turns out I had gotten their old tune. The new new tune is perfect everything works like it should the truck sounds great the exhaust brakes always stay on if you want them to and the def gauge reads 100%. I am very happy with HPP I would highly recommend learning from my mistake and just go with HPP from the get go. I did just the engine tune with HPP and am considering the trans tune. The older tune from HPP did have some shift flare but the new one they must have done some work on the trans as well because there is no flare between 3rd and 4th but it is still very smooth.