6.7 Surging at cruising speeds - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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6.7 Surging at cruising speeds

I know there are alot of posts about this and many have said alot of different things and none that I have read have have said if any of the things mention fixed the problem. So let's try this again. I have a 2011 Ram 2500 slt crew cab short box. I have dont the dpf and egr delete. I am running efi live with 5 position switch and a edge cs2 monitor with a s&b cold air intake 5 inch straight afe exhaust. Now to the problem I have been noticing a surge at cruising speeds around 1500 to 2000 rpms. It is mainly noticable when pulling my trailer and going up a hill. If I accelerate fairly hard without letting down shift the surge goes away. It dont matter what gear I am in it is still the same in the same rpm range. I have also noticed a mild surge at idle but as soon as I put the truck in gear it goes away. So far I have cleaned the air filter and replaced the fuel filter. One last thing I noticed that the boost gauge on the cts2 will stop working if and when the boost reaches 21 lbs. Fuel pressure at idle is fairly consistent at 5800 and seems to reach 23 to 25 with no problems. I was told to unplug the throttle vain when I installed efi. Any help would be great and if it is a list of sensors that could be bad can any one give me a voltage range or ohm range on given sensor to see if it working correctly. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:36 PM
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so it acts like if you left a choke on? did you verify that the throttle valve is staying open? you can pick up a delete for that for around 70 bucks an less.


edit: what setting are you running on your program?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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It does it on 5 settings no matter the speed or gear just around 1500 to 2000 rpms
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Really no help at all. I'm sure someone has had this problem before.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 09:38 PM
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I have a mystery single tune and similar issue.
Been informed that it's in the tune. Truck is going to the non Dodge dealer I purchased it from. Subscribing for info and hope you get it figured out. If I find out anything before you do, I will post findings.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:24 AM
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You can look at VGT actual vs commanded to see if the turbo is giving you issues. Other than that it's probably in the tune. Data log it and send it to your tuner for a revision

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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I have thought that but not sure how to diagnose that problem. As far as tune I dont believe it is the problem due to it didnt start when I added efi onto it. I done some research and found where the map sensor cam sensor and mass air flow have caused these problems before but not finding ohm or voltage specs to test them either. I just replaced the map sensor on the intake horn due to carbon build up. And that did not fix my problem so time to start throwing parts at it I guess.
[
QUOTE=Cacciatore;29035901]You can look at VGT actual vs commanded to see if the turbo is giving you issues. Other than that it's probably in the tune. Data log it and send it to your tuner for a revision[/QUOTE]
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 11:34 AM
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A VGT issue will present itself as commanded being different than actual.

Data log with EFI live to see if you are getting rail pressure spikes that the CTS2 can't pick up. The CTS2 won't react quick enough to identify issues. I had that issue and it presented itself randomly and needed a re-tune to remedy.

No reason to throw parts at a problem when you have plenty of more troubleshooting tools at your disposal

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ok for anyone that has this problem in the future it is most likely the cam sensor and it is a complete pita to get to. And fyi 2011 does have a crank sensor it is the same part number as the cam sensor and it is on the front bottom of the motor thier is a tone ring behind the homonical balancer. Easy to get to from underneath. Now I had to jack up the truck but a jack stand behind the radius bar take the tire off and inner fender and let the hub down and touch the ground. You'll see it right behind the above the cp3 and in front of the ECU. I used a 1/4 drive 5mm ball Allen socket with a 8in wobble extension a 3/16 is close but be careful not to strip it out. You have to remove the plug first and it has one of them stupid locks on it I used a long straight screwdriver and hope and prayed till I was able to unlock it. Good luck......tomorrow I am doing the crank to just be safe. They are like 43 bucks from advanced for bdp brand
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jengland View Post
Ok for anyone that has this problem in the future it is most likely the cam sensor . . . .
Can you share how you determined that?

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jengland View Post
Ok for anyone that has this problem in the future it is most likely the cam sensor and it is a complete pita to get to. And fyi 2011 does have a crank sensor it is the same part number as the cam sensor and it is on the front bottom of the motor thier is a tone ring behind the homonical balancer. Easy to get to from underneath. Now I had to jack up the truck but a jack stand behind the radius bar take the tire off and inner fender and let the hub down and touch the ground. You'll see it right behind the above the cp3 and in front of the ECU. I used a 1/4 drive 5mm ball Allen socket with a 8in wobble extension a 3/16 is close but be careful not to strip it out. You have to remove the plug first and it has one of them stupid locks on it I used a long straight screwdriver and hope and prayed till I was able to unlock it. Good luck......tomorrow I am doing the crank to just be safe. They are like 43 bucks from advanced for bdp brand
Ball Allens are used as a last result.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Jerry,
To make a long story short it was my last resort in a sense. After hours of internet searches on the possible cause and seeing what ranges the sensors was supposed to check at either at ohms or voltage. I decided to check all the sensors and they all checked good but the map sensor and it was barely within range so I changed it with no improvement. A few of my search results mention the cam sensor with my symptoms but everyone was getting a code and I was not. The cam sensor isnt one you can get to to check so I just replaced it.

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Quote:
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Ok for anyone that has this problem in the future it is most likely the cam sensor . . . .
Can you share how you determined that?
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