Pulling the trigger (camper) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2010-2012 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Pulling the trigger (camper)

Looks like I'm finally pulling the trigger on a camper purchase of a 2013 Keystone Hideout 31BHS. I know I won't have any issues with my trucks ratings but I'm looking for some advice on what you all use for hitches. Camper specs are:

Length- 33'
Dry Weight- 6,860lbs
Tongue Weight- 755lbs

I've been eyeballing a Blue Ox brand anti-sway and distribution setup. But there are so many choices out there on the market. Do I spend the Blue Ox money or is Curt just as good? We do plan to make trips to Nat Parks over the years and would prefer something that won't need constant upgrading. Where should I baseline my brake controller at?

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2011 CCLB Laramie 3500 SRW. EGR and DPF delete. AirAid CAI. MBRP 4" TBE. Smarty JR. Hell Bent Steel 2" Level. Bilstein 5100's up front. Loaded with the goodies I wanted.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 06:30 AM
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We have a similar size camper and have a Equal-i-zer 1000 weight distribution hitch. This was a carry over from our previous camper that has served us very well.

For the factory trailer brake setting I typically have it set on 'heavy electric' and 7. I will dial it back to 5.5 when I get into stop and go traffic so the trailer doesn't jerk the truck around as much.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:48 AM
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I have a older Arctic Fox trailer that is heavy. I use a Equal-i-zer hitch and am very happy with it. Used that brand for 30 years of towing. They are noisy but do their job.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:15 AM
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The equalizer, Blue-ox or Husky Ceneterline are all good systems that will do the job just fine. I have a Husky for my camper and it seems to work just fine. Just be sure to order the proper bars for your tongue weight.

Not positive where my controller is set. I just kind of set it based on feel and forget it.

12' RAM 2500 Lonestar ♠ Auto ♠ 6" Zone Offroad Lift ♠ 37" Toyos on 20" MotoMetal 951's ♠ Debadged with Color match bumper ♠ Mini Maxx with Transmission tune ♠ ARP425's
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 01:22 PM
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I use a Husky with the solid sway bars. My camper is a little heavier than yours and it works good even in a decent cross wind. What ever you do don't get a hitch system with the chains. What a PITA!

2012 2500 Laramie, 6.7L 4x4 w/ 68RFE Auto Trans, Mega Cab Short Box w/ AFE CAI, AFE trans pan, AFE rear diff cover, Throttle-Up Industries fuel filter kit, Alpharig steering stabilizer brace
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philandhistj View Post
Looks like I'm finally pulling the trigger on a camper purchase of a 2013 Keystone Hideout 31BHS. I know I won't have any issues with my trucks ratings but I'm looking for some advice on what you all use for hitches. Camper specs are:



Length- 33'

Dry Weight- 6,860lbs

Tongue Weight- 755lbs



I've been eyeballing a Blue Ox brand anti-sway and distribution setup. But there are so many choices out there on the market. Do I spend the Blue Ox money or is Curt just as good? We do plan to make trips to Nat Parks over the years and would prefer something that won't need constant upgrading. Where should I baseline my brake controller at?
Depends on the trailer brakes and their quality. I have played with the trailer controller a bit. With a maxed out load #4 is like brakes in a worn out old car with no ABS and that barely work (like they need to be blead) it's nice though to help, 7 or 8 will stop the truck without using my pedal. I haven't gone to 10

On a nice new dual car hauler trailer that was empty, 5 locked up the tires when I was going 10mph, as soon as I released the squealing and shuttering stopped. I think they were disk brakes.

Hualing a mini excavator in dump trailer I started at 3 and went up to 7. They we're drum brakes. After that car hauler locked up on me I was a little apprehensive about trying someone else trailer at a higher #, but it was a max load and I wanted to be safe.

On wet roads that you are concerned might have some hidden ice use primarily trailer brakes to prevent jack knifing and no exhuast brake on icy/snow roads



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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Slight change in my camper fun. The Keystone got sold the day before I showed up with a check. So ended up going with a Polimino Puma 29QBSS. Should be picking it up by Thursday! They are throwing in a Reese Pro hitch so I will run that for now and see how I like it. Can't really justify spending the extra $$$ on something they are supplying right away. And don't slap my jimmy for the following but...not running an EGT probe. Didn't really think I needed it while no towing was happening. Edge has a promo going on right now and I am ordering my CTS2 and EGT probe setup tomorrow.

I'm currently running the Smarty Jr. on 'performance' mode. My concern is the higher EGT's while towing under that setting. Should I switch over to 'tow' mode and make any timing adjustments prior to my first hook? Let the tranny relearn my tow setting before we make an 8hr trip over July holiday?

2011 CCLB Laramie 3500 SRW. EGR and DPF delete. AirAid CAI. MBRP 4" TBE. Smarty JR. Hell Bent Steel 2" Level. Bilstein 5100's up front. Loaded with the goodies I wanted.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 07:46 AM
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We have a Puma too. Great trailer for the $$.

I'd run the tow setting with the proper timing. My H&S tuning never pushes my truck over 1000 in the tow setting so you should be just fine.

12' RAM 2500 Lonestar ♠ Auto ♠ 6" Zone Offroad Lift ♠ 37" Toyos on 20" MotoMetal 951's ♠ Debadged with Color match bumper ♠ Mini Maxx with Transmission tune ♠ ARP425's
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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What's the proper timing? I'm running stock now.

2011 CCLB Laramie 3500 SRW. EGR and DPF delete. AirAid CAI. MBRP 4" TBE. Smarty JR. Hell Bent Steel 2" Level. Bilstein 5100's up front. Loaded with the goodies I wanted.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Got the trailer home with zero issues. Pulled like a dream! But one issue:

After pulling my 7 pin, the trailer brake icon was still on and letting me know that the trailer was disconnected. And also the ! on the controller itself. It was like this until I got home and cycled the key off and on. Anyone have any ideas there?

2011 CCLB Laramie 3500 SRW. EGR and DPF delete. AirAid CAI. MBRP 4" TBE. Smarty JR. Hell Bent Steel 2" Level. Bilstein 5100's up front. Loaded with the goodies I wanted.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philandhistj View Post
Got the trailer home with zero issues. Pulled like a dream! But one issue:

After pulling my 7 pin, the trailer brake icon was still on and letting me know that the trailer was disconnected. And also the ! on the controller itself. It was like this until I got home and cycled the key off and on. Anyone have any ideas there?
On my 2017, it's always like that. Once I disconnect the trailer, the red trailer disconnect light comes on and stays on until I shut the truck off and restart it. I don't think I have a "!" on my controller, but it's down low and I don't usually look at it. Not sure when I'll be towing next... the vacation travel trailer became my home away from home, literally (permanently working 7 hours from the family and living in travel trailer), but I tow my 20 ft cargo trailer fairly regularly. Maybe next time I tow and unhook, I'll have to look for a "!" light somewhere...

2017 2500 CTD 6.7L 68RFE Crew Cab Longbed; Bright White, Tradesman, Snow Chief, Chrome & Popular packages; 3.42 axle, 275R7018 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires. Added: D-Z tailgate soft drop, BeStep kick-down tailgate step. WeatherGuard toolbox.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philandhistj View Post
Got the trailer home with zero issues. Pulled like a dream! But one issue:



After pulling my 7 pin, the trailer brake icon was still on and letting me know that the trailer was disconnected. And also the ! on the controller itself. It was like this until I got home and cycled the key off and on. Anyone have any ideas there?
This is normal if you unhook the trailer with the truck running. Nothing to worry about at all.

Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
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2012 CCSB Big Horn 4x4 68RFE 3.73
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