P0191 & p0471 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2010-2012 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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P0191 & p0471

Hi, I have a 2011 Ram 3500 with the 6.7L. This truck has been absolutely wonderful with 178k but recently I've had an issue with the check engine light coming on. I get the P0191 As well as the P0471 codes. I haven't seen anything online with both of these codes at the same time. I haven't noticed any running issues with the check engine light on either. It seems to be intermittent as well the check engine light goes on and off on its own. I do have a tune on it (Smarty jr) I had a problem with the DPF in the earlier years of the truck so I deleted it, I've almost always kept it on the towing mode though. Recently changed the oil and fuel filter to see if it was simple, slightly at a loss and I don't want to take it to a shop yet. Any help would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:10 AM
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I wouldn't think the two codes are related. First one I'd tackle is the p0471, if you have access to a scanner I would see what the value is at key on not running. Then start and see the value, looking for a change. I would expect a change considering it's a performance code and not a circuit code. Next thing would be to pull the sensor, check the orfice on the sensor, pull the small tube see if its obstructed, clean it out, blow it out. That's where I'd start. P0191, can be a whole slew of things and the general consensus is start with the cheapest and start throwing parts. Which I hate aswell (suffer from the same recurring intermittent p0191) I aswell have no performance issues with the p0191 so I'm not throwing any parts at it. But I think the route people suggest is: pull connector on pressure sensor and clean. Replace fuel filter (doubt it) Replace pressure sensor/fuel rail. Then we start getting into cp3 and injectors. At this point I would do a fuel return test and get real values and diagnosis.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:18 PM
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Have you ever towed heavy or seen a sudden drop in your rail pressure? Could be your rail pressure relief valve has popped. From everything I read the PRV is like a can of pringles: once it pops, it canít stop. Itíll start popping at progressively lower and lower pressures until itís basically just WFO any time thereís above-idle pressure in the rail. Easiest way to diagnose it if you donít have a scanner is swap in either a known good PRV from another truck or a rail plug which you can pick up from fleabay for $25-50.

There are YouTube vids showing how to test lift pump flow - should push a certain volume in a certain amount of time. I think genos sells a test kit for it but itís not what Iíd call cheap for what amounts to a bucket, a fitting, and a hose. I think it should push something like half a liter in six seconds with a key-bump but I donít recall exactly.

Might be a dumb question but have you checked your batteries and cables? These things throw all kinds of wonky codes if the batteries are on their last legs.

Hope this helps. Good luck!


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:24 PM
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Today my check engine light came on and I pulled the same two codes. mine is a 2012 with 156K on it and my good friend is a certified cummins mechanic and he told me to just replace injectors. He said out of 10 years 98% of the time the code comes and goes until the injectors are replaced. The breakdown basically boils down to the engine will call for x a mount of fuel and only receive a fraction of what it needs and he explained in detail that over time the problems will only get worse.

I wish it was a cheaper fix but id rather get a handle on it before it gets to far gone that it costs more than 4k.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll tackle the minor things first and go from there. I'll let everyone know my progress. Thanks again!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 10:58 PM
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From my recent experience dont replace injectors yet. I spent alot of time and money chasing the P0191 code last year. Finally ended up being injector tubes not being torqued correctly after 190k miles. Spend hundreds on diagnosing and listened to the mechanic then spent thousands. I sent my old injectors for testing to a certified Bosch facility and was told all the injectors are like new. To do the injector tubes reseating correctly you must follow the Glacier Diesel instructions. Also you'll need to buy new orings for the new feedtubes.I hope this will help anyone with this same code and save someone alot of money.

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Originally Posted by TexasInspector86 View Post
Today my check engine light came on and I pulled the same two codes. mine is a 2012 with 156K on it and my good friend is a certified cummins mechanic and he told me to just replace injectors. He said out of 10 years 98% of the time the code comes and goes until the injectors are replaced. The breakdown basically boils down to the engine will call for x a mount of fuel and only receive a fraction of what it needs and he explained in detail that over time the problems will only get worse.

I wish it was a cheaper fix but id rather get a handle on it before it gets to far gone that it costs more than 4k.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
From my recent experience dont replace injectors yet. I spent alot of time and money chasing the P0191 code last year. Finally ended up being injector tubes not being torqued correctly after 190k miles. Spend hundreds on diagnosing and listened to the mechanic then spent thousands. I sent my old injectors for testing to a certified Bosch facility and was told all the injectors are like new. To do the injector tubes reseating correctly you must follow the Glacier Diesel instructions. Also you'll need to buy new orings for the new feedtubes.I hope this will help anyone with this same code and save someone alot of money.
Glacier Diesel instructions ? I'll follow Cummins directions first.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 03:59 PM
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Glacier Diesel instructions ? I'll follow Cummins directions first.[/QUOTE]


You can follow who evers instructions make you feel fuzzier. The point is dont spend money on injectors before you look into the smaller stuff like the tubes or else you can spend alot of money for nothing like I did. I had this code for over 1.5 years and got a false diagnostic reading from a very known shop. Many others have given thier input on this code and no one ever mentioned to re-torque the tubes the "correct" way.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Glacier Diesel instructions ? I'll follow Cummins directions first.

You can follow who evers instructions make you feel fuzzier. The point is dont spend money on injectors before you look into the smaller stuff like the tubes or else you can spend alot of money for nothing like I did. I had this code for over 1.5 years and got a false diagnostic reading from a very known shop. Many others have given thier input on this code and no one ever mentioned to re-torque the tubes the "correct" way.[/QUOTE]


You finally figured out the erratic fuel pressure problem at idle? How does not torquing in a certain way cause that?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 06:39 PM
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You finally figured out the erratic fuel pressure problem at idle? How does not torquing in a certain way cause that?[/QUOTE]

Its a metal to metal seal so torquing in the proper procedure is very important. When you over tighten the feed tube they can bend or push on the injector causing the feed tube to leak, for example if you go up to a truck that is running just fine and over tighten the injector tube, it can cause the tube to leak at the injector tube/injector fitment point. Glacier Diesel outlines the procedure very nicely with torque specs ect. If you follow GA's channel or Turba Tom on Youtube they have also made videos of the same procedure I'm talking about. My P0191 code is gone and now I'm having other issues. I guess at 242k miles its expected.

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