2011 Coolant flush - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
2010-2012 General Discussion General Chit Chat About the 6.7L 4th generation Cummins - NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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2011 Coolant flush

Can somebody give me the run down on the correct procedure for a coolant flush on a 2011 6.7? Ive seen a few different ways to go about it as far as diluting or not diluting and so forth and just want to get it right.

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 04:39 PM
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Concentrated G05 Zerex is cheaper than buying the 50/50 premix if you want to save some bucks on the coolant change. When I changed my coolant, after draining the system, I removed the thermostat and filled the engine block as well as I could and installed a new thermostat. Then I filled the radiator, but I have to tell you these 6.7s get airlocks in them and the only way to keep from getting air in it is to pull a vacuum like the dealerships do. I had to drive and fill for a while until it was topped off and no gurgling from it when it was shut off. Not rocket science, more of just a PAI than having to use some arcane knowledge.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:34 PM
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get concentrate. cheaper. flush your system multiple times with straight deionized water with the heater on max. i used 14 gals of deionized water. Make a gallon or 2 of mix before hand to fill your reservoir and for topping off at the end. recommend pulling lower hose and not using the drain valve. They are flimsy and may not seal up.

You have to open the vent near the EGR cooler, it is the highest point on the system and will vent all the air out. There's a arrow pointing at it. Can't miss it. You might need to heat it up as they are glued with red loctite. On your last drain, dump all the g05 concentrate and it will dilute with the water still in the system, top off with water til it comes out the vent.

2011 CCLB. 280k and counting. Original 68RFE. Android head unit. firestone airbag kit. CAT dual filter kit. Falken wildpeak AT3w. Power wagon wheels.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:21 PM
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This is what I did with my '11:

Purchased 20 gallons of deionized water from the local Dollar General @ $1/ea.
Purchased 8 gallons of FLEETGUARD ES COMPLEAT EG (Smurf Pee because of the deep blue color) from my local Cummins Central Power shop @ $9/ea
Purchased 2 gallons of FLEETGUARD ES COMPLEAT EG concentrate from the same place @ $15/ea (yes, I could have made 2 premixed gallons for the price of 1 concentrate)

I drained the entire system via lower hose and pulled the thermostat. Filled, ran, drained with water 2 times. Filled, ran and drained a 3rd time but with a gallon of premix included. I did this simply to ensure that IF I didn't get all the old coolant out, at least I had a good base of new coolant. Then I refilled with 1 gallon concentrate and then the 50/50 Fleetguard. Replaced thermostat and "burped" system via coolant vent and filled reservoir with premix.

I over purchased coolant simply for having some extra on hand. I talked to the Cummins tech people and the Cummins Filtration people and everyone was in agreement that switching to an EG coolant wouldn't hurt anything as long as I didn't use it to "top off" my Chrysler OAT coolant. Something about the reaction between the 2 kinds? When my Cummins is involved, I go to the maker of it, not the dealership that simply 'drops' it in the truck. Maybe I'm just crazy.

I have run the 'Smurf Pee' in my system for a year now, no issues. I like the low maintenance intervals, additive acceptance, various inhibitors, etc.
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2011 CCLB Laramie 3500 SRW. EGR and DPF delete. AirAid CAI. MBRP 4" TBE. Smarty JR. Hell Bent Steel 2" Level. Bilstein 5100's up front. Loaded with the goodies I wanted.
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