Cummins Diesel Forum banner

Complicated Issue - What do we do next?

21K views 151 replies 26 participants last post by  B&W 2500 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay, so since we've been coming to the northeast (NE) for many years now, we've been experiencing everything that comes with the NE -- including rotting tailpipes. So, recently, I was traveling on one of the mountain roads in the area when I began to hear a clanking (metallic) sound coming from the rear of our 2012 Cummins Mega Longhorn (presently under 48,000 miles). Upon a visual inspection, I saw that the truck's tailpipe was dangling from a dampened exhaust hanger, so, long story short, I ended up laying under the track with a cordless grinder (and a few blades) to cut the damned thing off.

As I've been thinking about deleting the fuel-robbing emissions garbage on this particular truck, I didn't run out right away and replace the tailpipe. Fast forward to yesterday...I'm heading south on one of our interstates, at night, when, all of the sudden, I begin losing power on an uphill section. Shortly after that, I begin hearing something that doesn't sound good (a slight knocking)...then I get a check engine light followed by the following dash message: Exhaust Service Required -- See Dealer Now. Needless to say, I pulled off of the road to give the truck a visual. After seeing that the [full synthetic] oil looked its normal black color -- with no visible signs of contamination -- I pulled out a cordless 18V lamp and began inspecting the underside of the truck. As there were no visible signs of trouble, I decided to start the truck and give the engine bay a good listen. As I couldn't hear anything unusual going on, I decided to see if I could move the truck...but, once I pushed on the fuel pedal, it was immediately apparent that the truck wasn't going to build up much power. So, three hours later (at about 28-degrees F), I finally got a flat bed wrecker to take me to my nearest relative's house (my MIL's house), which is where the truck presently sits.

Although I can't feature how the missing tailpipe has anything to do with the Exhaust Service Required message -- that doesn't mean that the Service Manager at our local Ram dealer will feel the same way. We purchased a Mopar Added Care Plus (7 years - 70K miles) warranty when we purchased the truck ... So now that you've [hopefully] made it this far, I'm asking the board for advice. Should I order the tailpipe now, replace it and have the truck moved to the stealer, afterword? Should I simply move the truck to the Ram dealership and give it to them straight?

Thanks very much for your time.
 
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: Gunny Fitz
#2 ·
If you like your truck with that factory exhaust system and performance by all means take it to the dealer as is and let them deal with it, but OTH, if you want to get better performance and fuel mileage from your truck this seems like the perfect time to do a programmer and 4"- 5" TBE and deletes. I had the Mini Maxx and 5" exhaust put on with less than 2000 miles on my 2011. I then, at 25 or 30,000 miles completely removed the EGR using a Sinister delete kit for that and the S&B cold air intake and filter. The only regret I have about it was in hindsight I wish I would have the ARP headstuds installed at the same time before I lost the head gasket. Running factory stock your truck will never stretch the head bolts, and I guess that is alright but I will say I have saved enough in fuel economy to more than pay for all the upgrades on my truck. If you do an H&S Mini Maxx I would suggest doing the tranny upgrade also, I think I paid $250 extra for that. If I had waited and bought a newer Cummins without the DPF system I might have left it stock, but for these 4th gens they are crap in my opinion, at least until they are deleted. If you license your truck where that do a visual and emissions testing you might not want to do the deletes.
 
#3 ·
Truck Down

Den52......First, thanks for your time and your thoughts -- we genuinely appreciate it. One of the reasons I didn't get the tailpipe replaced immediately is because I've been thinking about getting rid of as much of the emissions garbage as possible: as soon as the warranty we paid so much for expires. You're exactly right, I, too, believe that the emissions crap that's forced onto Cummins and/or FCA has exactly the opposite effect relative to its [purported] purpose. In the long run, the EGR system, for example, causes the engine to burn way more fuel than it should and -- given the admittedly small amount I've read about deletes over the years -- must rob the wonderfully-designed Cummins ISBs of a lot of power...but I digress.

As I alluded to, I don't know much about deletes, which is one of the reasons I started this thread. I assume that one of the major factors in the delete process is to change the exhaust system; hence, my hesitation to purchase a new tailpipe for the truck. At this point, however, I'm worried about the knocking I heard just before I got the Exhaust Service Required Message (ESRM) ... so I'm thinking that we get the truck towed to the local Ram dealer, get it checked out and, once I'm told that the engine still has the proper compression, I can always consider our delete options. I'm hoping that I haven't confused the issue further and, of course, I'd sincerely appreciate any more thoughts you -- or anyone else -- might have on the matter. Thanks again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gunny Fitz
#4 ·
If they say anything about the exhaust tell them it happened a few months ago while on a trip and you had to cut it off. You haven't had a chance to get it fixed yet. End of story. You will be fine. I had the 70K warranty on my last Ram. Dealer told me to bring it in right before it expired and they would go through the truck. They replaced the entire front end which worked for me. I had death wobble issues.
 
#5 ·
If you’re keen to keep that warranty intact I’d seriously recommend not deleting yet. If that’s a bumper to bumper, they’ve gotta fix it. If not, well, I think the emissions related components are federally mandated to be warrantied until 10 years or 80k so even if you’re out of your basic factory 3/36 they’ve gotta keep the emissions operational until 10/80. With so many vehicles now coming with 100k powertrain warranties, I can’t imagine they won’t at least get you operational with an extended warranty. A tailpipe isn’t exactly a maintenance item on the factory service schedule so I would think it rotting off in <50k would be a problem.

To be honest I’m impressed. I’m from Pittsburgh and honestly don’t recall seeing one of the factory 409 stainless systems rot out that fast since the early- / mid-90s when we used to still get those legit 5-month winters up there with boroughs going thru metric s**!-tons of road salt every year (and it seemed like OEMs we’re trying to cheap out and use cast-iron manifolds, 409 stainless y-pipes and cats, and junk thin wall 304 stainless mid and tail pipes and mufflers. Those things used to last about as long as brown bananas...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gunny Fitz
#6 ·
Addendum:

You can semi-effectively shut off the EGR with a couple doorman freeze plugs from the local hardware store. Pull the crossover, plug both ends, reinstall, done. You could also unplug the intake elbow valve; it’ll trigger a check engine light and de-rate the engine ~40hp but it shouldn’t affect drivability and it’s 100% reversible for warranty purposes.

There’s a sticky in the 3rd gen 6.7 section called “EGR test results complete” that has a ton of good info in it which you might find helpful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
Was this caused by an EGR component?

El Pozzinator......You seem to have a pretty good idea about what is causing the extreme loss of power we're presently experiencing...In fact, the engine barely runs when the fuel pedal is pressed. If you've seen or heard of something like this before, would you mind sharing your thoughts with the thread? is the dramatic loss of power most likely due to the EGR throwing a code? In other words, is the truck in some kind of limp mode? Your thoughts on the current state of our truck's engine -- and its probable causes -- would be most greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
 
#149 ·
Was this caused by an EGR component?

El Pozzinator......
You seem to have a pretty good idea about what is causing the extreme loss of power we're presently experiencing...In fact, the engine barely runs when the fuel pedal is pressed. If you've seen or heard of something like this before, would you mind sharing your thoughts with the thread? is the dramatic loss of power most likely due to the EGR throwing a code? In other words, is the truck in some kind of limp mode? Your thoughts on the current state of our truck's engine -- and its probable causes -- would be most greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
If you get an engine light about your exhaust and put the truck into limp mode.
 
#8 ·
if you've got one part of the exhaust rotted out you may have leaks elsewhere. And any leak before the DPF will cause issues. Further the exhaust exit Temps are really high and you can melt things under the truck where. Without seeing the exact codes set its purely a guess. Google or search on here for "key dance" and read and record the codes. My guess is it has a leak and isn't able to regent properly leading to a plugged up DPF and the associated message and significant derate.

I had the stock resonator rot off last year...which without the DPF made the truck stupidly loud in the cab. Replaced the over the axle piece and stock resonator with a resonator pipe style. Truck sounds really good now without usually being too stupid loud (except when you really get into it...)
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: B&W 2500
#9 ·
If you’re getting a complete or almost complete lack of movement when you press the accelerator pedal in gear, that definitely sounds like limp mode. Gotta pull codes. Readers are cheap now; $30-50 at a local parts store, or if you can get the truck there most of them will pull codes for free. Echoing the above, if the tailpipe rotted off you indeed may have pinholes further upstream which are causing exhaust leaks (heat leaks) preventing a proper regeneration process. If the DPF is fully plugged beyond the capabilities of a dealer-forced regen (the autoengenuity or snap-on scanners should be able to initiate), the only solutions are to either remove it and perform a thermal regen (where the DPF goes into an oven and gets baked clean) or replace it. If you’re going to a stealership, I’m sure you can guess what they’ll tell you is the “only” option. Commercial truck shops sometimes have DPF ovens - their interest is keeping trucks on the road as cheap as possible; dealers don’t - their interest is vacuuming your wallet as often and thoroughly as possible. Heck I’d be shocked purple if anyone found a dealer willing to follow Cummins’ instructions for cleaning an EGR cooler rather than insisting it must be replaced every 67,500 miles.

But hey, if it’s still under warranty, let them do whatever they’re gonna do as long as your truck runs properly and code-free when you get it back.

If you can get those codes pulled and post them, we’ll be able to better advise you on a route to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#10 ·
Update

ZOP and Pozz......After driving to the MIL's house, I started the truck twice. The first time, it spit, sputtered, smoked and eventually stalled. The second time around, it started out running rough, but, eventually, it smoothed out and idled normally. As the engine began to idle smoothly, the dash message changed to the following text (verbatim): Exhaust Filter Full - Power Reduced see dealer.

As the engine seemed to be running fairly well, I took the truck for a short test drive, but never really tried to run it on a large road (at speed). I guess I had second thoughts about risking anything, so I decided to turn around and head back to the MIL's house. In the meantime, we had ordered another flatbed tow ... so now the truck is back in our driveway where, at least, we have asphalt and a small garage to work out of.

After reading everyone's posts, I've decided that the next step is to pull the codes from the truck's OSB-II port ... so tomorrow I will begin hunting for a way to either borrow or purchase a suitable reader. Once I have said code(s), I will post them here and ask for more advice.

In the meantime, I'm presently convinced that there is no warranty coverage for our exhaust issues. In short, I have carefully examined the Mopar Added Care Plus (7 year - 70,000 mile) warranty we purchased with the truck and, unfortunately, have found zero evidence that anything in the exhaust system itself will be covered. In fact, the only thing in the emission system that is still covered is the catalytic converter -- and that's actually covered by the EPA-mandated emissions warranty (not the extended warranty). If, on the other hand, the turbocharger needs to be repaired or replaced -- that should be covered by the extended warranty.

By the way, when I spoke to Mopar Customer Care today, the rep laughed when I told her that the dealership had thrown the phrase "bumper to bumper" around when I initially purchased the truck and, in fact, told me that "I hear that one a lot." In closing, and according to Mopar Customer Care, there is no such thing as a true bumper to bumper warranty.

So if anyone has any thoughts to offer on how one can begin the delete process -- without involving the stealership -- I'd be very grateful to read anything I can on the subject. I'd also like to ask if going to the dealership is the only way to restore the ECM and get the truck out of any kind of "limp mode" condition?

I'll get back to the thread with another update after I figure out how to get those codes. Thanks again for your time.
 
#11 ·
IIRC limp mode for DPF Full is initiated by feedback interpreted by the ECM from the exhaust sensors. if you're going to delete, when you load your tune your ECM will basically no longer be paying attention to those sensors. if you need to stay emissions "intact" for compliance purposes (IE visual), then gutting the filter and tuning should get you out of limp mode. that message on your overhead means the truck has drastically cut power and the trans will be limited to 1st and 4th gears as if you were in a transmission "limp home" mode as well. this can generally be determined by if the truck seems to rev abnormally high in gear, then have a single lurching shift and start immediately lugging at really low RPM for the road speed. if not, that's good and you're probably not in full limp mode yet - but it's not far off. there's usually about a 25 or so mile warning before the truck all but disables itself.

don't ya just love all those appointed people at the EPA with absolutely no accountability to anyone, who get to tell us what we can do and how / when we can use our trucks? i'll spare you the diatribe about how completely pointless and counterproductive current emissions controls actually are when hooked up to a 4-gas analyzer on a load cell dyno. look up what jesse james went thru fighting the EPA...

once you pick a tuner, make sure you let them know what condition your truck is in now. they may have you work off the base file already in the ECM, or they may choose to load a spare clean base file they have and just direct you to overwrite the factory ECM without downloading the stock tune first. give a holler at any of the tuners in the vendors section and go with whomever gives you the best warm-n-fuzzy. any of their tunes will make your truck feel like a whole different animal compared to the anemic crap it was saddled with from the factory to keep the enviro-nazis and the stealerships happy.

far as when you go delete shopping, my humble two cents says a stainless exhaust isn't worth double the cost of an aluminized system with a good rattle-can VHT exhaust paint job on it. most of the aftermarket systems you'll find aren't going to be the same quality stainless as factory, and well, you've seen that even that rots out up there in the rust belt. for how little of a pain it is to cut the old one out and replace it every few years, i'd go with the cheapest aluminized turbo-back exhaust you come across... for EGR deletes, they're all basically the same and only differentiated by the name on the box and what color the intake plates are powdercoated. just pick whatever flavor you like at your preferred price point and roll with it. i had the cheapest one i could find on fleabay mounted up for a few years before my whole intake eloped with the grid heater and stock garbage boost tubes, replaced by (again) the cheapest pieces i could find and only the finest quality ceramic paint and sealer from The Homeless Despot.

hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: B&W 2500
#12 ·
Many thanks to you down in Dixie

Pozz......Really great post! As someone who's invested so much hard-earned into two of these trucks, over the years, I can't tell you how helpful it is to read about the whole debacle that is emissions standards and, much more importantly, how someone who feels as strongly as I do about gov't intervention went about setting things straight! Being a born and bred deep southerner, there isn't any problem with the linguistics, but I do have a few more questions about the terms you chose to describe the technical aspects of this sad/sorry issue...but we can get into that after I get those codes posted. I hope that you -- and anyone else who's interested in how the great Cummins ISBs are being asphyxiated by the powers that be -- will hang with me as this whole process unfolds. I'm not promising anything, yet, but I will get my truck back on the road in a way that makes the most sense to me. Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread and please subscribe for more posts in the very near future.
 
#13 ·
Codes (definitely plural)

Okay, before I begin reading up on them, I wanted to post all of the codes that were displayed on my dash after I employed the 3x Key Dance -- thank you, ZOP.

Here are the codes [to quote everyone's favorite recorded customer service message] "in the order in which they were received":

P-2195
P-1451
P-2463
P-21B4
P-0606
P-0602
P-02E3
P-1508
P-02E8
P-2228
P-1192
P-0562
P-0716
P-02E7
P-0049
P-0606


Any information I can get from the board on these issues would be most greatly appreciated. Thanks again ~ B&W
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gunny Fitz
#15 ·
Clarifying the codes

Here's what my research is telling me about the codes I've pulled from my truck:

P-2195 O2 Sensor 1/1 Out of Range HIGH

P-1451 Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) System Performance

P-2463 DPF Soot Accumulation

P-21B4 NOX Absorber - Over Temperature

P-0606 Internal Control Processor

P-0602 Control Module Programming Error / NOT Programmed

P-02E3 Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Circuit HIGH

P-1508 Crankcase Filter Restriction - Replace Filter

P-02E8 Diesel Intake Air Flow Position Circuit LOW

P-2228 Barometric Pressure Circuit LOW

P-1192 Inlet Air Temperature Sensor LOW

P-0562 Battery Voltage LOW

P-0716 Input Speed Sensor 1 Circuit Performance

P-02E7 Diesel Intake Air Flow Position Sensor Performance

P-0049 Turbocharger Turbine Overspeed

P-0606 Internal Control Processor

Once again, these codes were acquired via the 3x key dance and they are listed in the exact order as displayed. Thanks for your help.
 
#16 ·
Nothing like a 10-12 emission system to drive you nuts and cost you Millions. Seriously delete or sell and get a different year.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk
 
#17 · (Edited)
An Old Marine's Perspective

Hardcore -

Received your PM and will respond there as well B.
This is a wicked issue you have going on my man. Never seen that many Trouble Codes on one occurrence in my life~! Thankfully, rarely see Trouble codes at all, and can instantly clear on my Edge CTS2) After reading the many replies here, I have to agree w some of them. As a New Englander who only had my 05' as primary rig, I had no desire to do any Deletes on it. Im not saying Deletes are inherently bad. That would be somewhat hypocritical from one who's replaced just about every part of the truck-Pics of my own Exhaust issue included. It all ties in at the end. Promise.

My question to you is this: What are you seeking to gain by Deleting?

If its Performance oriented, then do it 100% brother. Do everything involved w this Mod at once so that it provides you with its intended result. Im talking Tuner, CAI, Turbo Back Exhaust, etc. Since I'm not one to Delete, Im not fully engaged with everything it entails. My Disclaimer.

However, first things first - Get that truck to the Dealer NOW!

You can do all the Deleting you want AFTER they determine exactly what matter you are facing. After all, you purchased that Warranty for a reason, no? Hopefully you have a decent relationship with your Service Writer and can somehow explain the whole tailpipe issue as you see fit. Its exactly what I would've done myself, and also surprising as mentioned above. Sorry Im not more helpful on Diagnosing your misfortune. Don't think I've ever ridden in anything beyond 2005. Also, forgive me if I hit fast forward too hard- is the truck still up at your MIL's POS? (That doesn't mean piece of ---- either man. Perhaps I should've said AOR?) How Copy Over.....?

If everyone wishes to read my Thread on my wicked facelift they can. I'd definetly lose any reader if I dived into it-plus this is your Thread and your move my man. Just offering my assistance on obtaining the gear you may need Post-Surgery (Your Rig) Don't waste your money just replacing the "tailpipe" B. Go further up past whatever muffler you have left. The photo is a 13 Year Flowmaster Exhaust that recently rotted from Tip to Turbo - All on the Weld Seam. That is aftermarket, your OEM system should not be falling off in Rot !!That nifty Warranty of yours cover anything on this?

More via PM. Get that damn truck back to the Stealer, and milk that EW for all its worth BW !
 

Attachments

#18 ·
https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/...codes/dodge-cummins-diagnostic-trouble-codes/

Helpful code list up to early 4th gen trucks. Makes googling to cross reference a lot easier. Also there’s a service manual on carbonitecummins you might do well to go have a sniff thru. Cummins, not mopar, troubleshooting stuff in there. Mucho bueno info, perfect for making your legs fall asleep on the crapper.
Here’s my humble two cents’ worth, with the caveat that my emissions stuff got stolen by the good idea fairy before most of these came up.

0606 no idea what’s up with that but I suspect it’s connected to the battery and ECM codes.

0049 is turbo. Recall these ECMs read this, MAP, MAF, and IAT on the same circuit. Could be any of them.

1192, 1508, and 2228: since you’re getting these and the 0049, it’s probably due to the overall condition. 1508 would be triggered if the ECM gets confused about how much vacuum the turbo should be applying to the CCV and it’s “seeing” less than it thinks it should see.

2195 is a lambda sensor stuck lean (prob soot-caked). Not seeing correct A/F ratio in exhaust. Likely indicates limp mode from truck injecting barely enough fuel to stay running. These things idle at like 30:1, so imagine how lean it is to get “stuck” too lean.

02e3, 02e7, and 02e8 are throttle valve. Prob ECM trying to richen up in self-preservation mode by closing the throttle valve further than it can close. Diesels get hotter as they get richer. More fuel means more heat means active regen. Truck is probably trying to initiate active regen against its own limp mode parameters and is getting confused, causing it to brain-fart and throw random codes.

0716 is your torque converter input sensor (works on the lockup circuit). Truck is trying to unlock the converter or thinks it should be unlocked but it’s getting confused. Or the truck is idling abnormally low. Or you have a broken crank or sheared flexplate (unlikely if the truck starts and moves).

1451, 2463, and 21b4 I think are connected to a failed attempted active regen.

I saved the easiest two for last:

0602 and 0562: before you do anything else with the truck, pull your batteries out of the truck and go get them load tested. I’m betting one or both of them is bad. These generally indicate the ECM saw an input voltage fluctuation it didn’t like. Sorta the equivalent of a perp riding the lightning when the boys in blue get to yell “taser taser taser” and giggle amongst ourselves later. No permanent damage but it sure shuts your brain off like a light switch for five seconds. Seems like some trucks will get 7-8 years out of a set and others get run over by the struggle-bus trying to make it 3 years on a set. Depends on how / where you use the truck and how much idle time it sees vs turning over ~1300rpm where the stock anemic 130 amp alternator (which most of us have unless we optioned up or lucked out) puts out enough to run all the systems and charge the batteries.

It honestly wouldn’t surprise me if you find one or two bad batteries, replace them, clear these codes, and half of them don’t come back. If one is bad, replace both. These ECMs DO NOT like input voltage issues. Check your cables, terminal clamps, and grounds for corrosion. If any of your cables are bad replace them all. Kits aren’t that expensive (aftermarket HD cables, not mopar replacement) - you should see less than 0.1v drop per linear foot and no more than 0.5v drop across entire length of any of your main cables. Grounds, I wouldn’t tolerate anything over 0.1 when you ohm them out. I’ve had bad batteries do all sorts of weird stuff like pop the transfer case into neutral when I hit a bump, activate the wipers when I put the truck in reverse, and the exhaust brake activating triggered the high beams during a 14-hour drive.

Far as needing to go to a dealer for a re-flash, I’d suggest avoiding it if possible unless absolutely necessary. They probably won’t let your truck leave without insisting on several thousand dollars in “repairs” (where they’ll just put all new emissions crap on which will basically just stave this issue off for a few more years again). Give any of the tuners in the vendors section a call and they can tell you if they’ll need your truck to be dealer-reflashed first. Might be able to find a ma-n-pop diesel shop (you know, the folks who actually know what they’re doing, unlike most stealership minimum wage parts-replacers) who’ll just clear the codes so you can flash a tune if need be.

Hope this helps.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#150 ·
https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/...codes/dodge-cummins-diagnostic-trouble-codes/

Helpful code list up to early 4th gen trucks. Makes googling to cross reference a lot easier. Also there’s a service manual on carbonitecummins you might do well to go have a sniff thru. Cummins, not mopar, troubleshooting stuff in there. Mucho bueno info, perfect for making your legs fall asleep on the crapper.
Here’s my humble two cents’ worth, with the caveat that my emissions stuff got stolen by the good idea fairy before most of these came up.

0606 no idea what’s up with that but I suspect it’s connected to the battery and ECM codes.

0049 is turbo. Recall these ECMs read this, MAP, MAF, and IAT on the same circuit. Could be any of them.

1192, 1508, and 2228: since you’re getting these and the 0049, it’s probably due to the overall condition. 1508 would be triggered if the ECM gets confused about how much vacuum the turbo should be applying to the CCV and it’s “seeing” less than it thinks it should see.

2195 is a lambda sensor stuck lean (prob soot-caked). Not seeing correct A/F ratio in exhaust. Likely indicates limp mode from truck injecting barely enough fuel to stay running. These things idle at like 30:1, so imagine how lean it is to get “stuck” too lean.

02e3, 02e7, and 02e8 are throttle valve. Prob ECM trying to richen up in self-preservation mode by closing the throttle valve further than it can close. Diesels get hotter as they get richer. More fuel means more heat means active regen. Truck is probably trying to initiate active regen against its own limp mode parameters and is getting confused, causing it to brain-fart and throw random codes.

0716 is your torque converter input sensor (works on the lockup circuit). Truck is trying to unlock the converter or thinks it should be unlocked but it’s getting confused. Or the truck is idling abnormally low. Or you have a broken crank or sheared flexplate (unlikely if the truck starts and moves).

1451, 2463, and 21b4 I think are connected to a failed attempted active regen.

I saved the easiest two for last:

0602 and 0562: before you do anything else with the truck, pull your batteries out of the truck and go get them load tested. I’m betting one or both of them is bad. These generally indicate the ECM saw an input voltage fluctuation it didn’t like. Sorta the equivalent of a perp riding the lightning when the boys in blue get to yell “taser taser taser” and giggle amongst ourselves later. No permanent damage but it sure shuts your brain off like a light switch for five seconds. Seems like some trucks will get 7-8 years out of a set and others get run over by the struggle-bus trying to make it 3 years on a set. Depends on how / where you use the truck and how much idle time it sees vs turning over ~1300rpm where the stock anemic 130 amp alternator (which most of us have unless we optioned up or lucked out) puts out enough to run all the systems and charge the batteries.

It honestly wouldn’t surprise me if you find one or two bad batteries, replace them, clear these codes, and half of them don’t come back. If one is bad, replace both. These ECMs DO NOT like input voltage issues. Check your cables, terminal clamps, and grounds for corrosion. If any of your cables are bad replace them all. Kits aren’t that expensive (aftermarket HD cables, not mopar replacement) - you should see less than 0.1v drop per linear foot and no more than 0.5v drop across entire length of any of your main cables. Grounds, I wouldn’t tolerate anything over 0.1 when you ohm them out. I’ve had bad batteries do all sorts of weird stuff like pop the transfer case into neutral when I hit a bump, activate the wipers when I put the truck in reverse, and the exhaust brake activating triggered the high beams during a 14-hour drive.

Far as needing to go to a dealer for a re-flash, I’d suggest avoiding it if possible unless absolutely necessary. They probably won’t let your truck leave without insisting on several thousand dollars in “repairs” (where they’ll just put all new emissions crap on which will basically just stave this issue off for a few more years again). Give any of the tuners in the vendors section a call and they can tell you if they’ll need your truck to be dealer-reflashed first. Might be able to find a ma-n-pop diesel shop (you know, the folks who actually know what they’re doing, unlike most stealership minimum wage parts-replacers) who’ll just clear the codes so you can flash a tune if need be.

Hope this helps.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can do your own battery test with a test if you have handy. Pull the postive side off because the batteries are hookup in series. And then test the battery.
 
#19 ·
Edit:
I keep forgetting about your extended warranty!

:doh:

With that applying, get it in and let them worry about it. If they tell you it’s gonna require full emissions replacement then have them show you in writing where your emissions isn’t covered (if they try to charge you).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Hey, lots of info here but wanted to start by saying both of your messages you received are no big deal or reason to do anything drastic. Exhaust service required-see dealer now is incredibly common. In fact theres 3 other threads on here about it now. All it means is you need to burn some PM off your particulate filter. DPF full is just confirming this. Take the truck out on the hwy and let the exhaust get up to temp and drive it for an hour or so at hwy speed. Bet both of those go away and 90% of your other codes go away. A clogged filter will throw all those codes you mentioned, we see this all the time on class 8 trucks I work on. An emissions problem will load up a ton of other codes. You just need to get out on the hwy and get up to temp and let your truck regenerate and burn off the PM. If that doesnt work, then yes, replacement DPF is in order and you might consider a delete then. Most of the time just letting it regen will clear everything up. These exhaust systems need to see heat to function properly.
Before you do this tho, check to make sure the tailpipe is not aimed at anything under the truck. It will run over 1000 degrees when it regens and definitely could melt something.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Batteries

El Pozz......As you suggested, I got out and removed both batteries from our sick truck. Despite the bitter cold freezing my hands like ice cubes, I was very happy to get the batteries into a semi-warm garage and onto a slow charger. After roughly six hours, the first battery is still drawing about 3.5 amps ... and the second battery is waiting its turn. Once I get both batteries charged up, I will arrange to have them load tested and get back to the thread with the results.

Right now, I have a question about removing the batteries for an extended period of time. According to my brother back home in Dixie -- a Ford 6.7L Scorpion F250 owner -- you're not supposed to take the batteries out of a modern/electronic truck without providing some sort of back-feed voltage source to the truck's electrical system. As you seem to have a pretty good grasp of the electrical side of these 4th generation trucks, I'd like to get your thoughts on this.

Thanks for sticking with me ~ B&W
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gunny Fitz
#22 ·
They're totally fine to remove and leave out indefinitely. Yes your radio and clock will reset. I think memory presets for stations will keep though.
 
#23 ·
2011.5?

ZOP......Thanks for explaining that a voltage backfeed is not necessary when removing both batteries from a 2012 6.7L Ram. As a [former] 1998.5 5.9L Cummins ISB Ram owner, I've got to ask: What is a 2011.5 model? I just read your signature closely and I'm very curious. Thanks again ~ B&W
 
#24 ·
ZOP......Thanks for explaining that a voltage backfeed is not necessary when removing both batteries from a 2012 6.7L Ram. As a [former] 1998.5 5.9L Cummins ISB Ram owner, I've got to ask: What is a 2011.5 model? I just read your signature closely and I'm very curious. Thanks again ~ B&W
11.5 has a beefy tork converter

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
Batteries Tested

As stated in Post 21, I charged up both of our batteries and had them load tested (at two separate locations). It's really a bittersweet thing, but both batteries tested OK under the prescribed load. Why bittersweet? Because @El Pozzinator had suspicions about a dead cell causing some of the litany of trouble codes I've pulled from the truck -- and that rang loud and clear to me. Yeah, I'm glad that we don't have to buy a pair of $$$new batteries$$$, but I'm also sorry that we're still unable to diagnose some of those codes I listed [perviously] in this thread.

Okay, so now that (9) days have passed since we were first stranded by our wonderful 2012 6.7L emissions technology, we will now be able to take advantage of our AAA Plus benefits tomorrow and have the truck flat-bedded to a dealer that [reportedly] is "...set up for diesel trucks." After I have more on this, I'll be sure to update the thread. It is my sincere hope that someone else in our situation will benefit from our misfortune. ~ B&W
 
  • Like
Reactions: El Pozzinator
#26 ·
At the dealer

Although we did get the truck to a recommended Ram dealer for service, we're [presently] being told that it will be at least a couple of weeks before any work will actually be performed.

Although the news about how long it might take to make progress on our truck isn't the best, I am glad that we can now have the truck towed without breaking the bank and, furthermore, we are one step closer to finding out if our 6.7L emissions-related breakdown caused any kind of powertrain damage.

I'm certainly not going to sit around and meekly wait for two weeks to pass, so I'll be calling the service department on Monday to discuss the possibilities. When I get more information, I will be sure to share it with the thread. Thanks for your time ~ B&W
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top