05 3500 dually rear passenger brake running hot.
Replaced both rotors, both pads, rear passenger caliper, all 3 rubber lines in rear and the metal line. Bled brakes. Passenger rear brakes still running twice as hot. Swapped out the new caliper in case I got a bad one. Still running hot.
What the heck can it be?
When you say it is running hot, does that mean the wheel is still dragging? The E-brake will not drag for very long even if completely engaged before burning out the shoes and the dragging will stop.
Are you sure it is the brake generating the heat and not the bearing hub? If you have a temp gun, start probing around the hub and brake and compare to the other side for temperature variations.
Its been running hot for a while, I been smelling brakes on the one side for a while. You right, the e brake would have been toast long ago. It got so hot I ended up changing the rotor because it warped, so I went ahead and did both rotors, caliper on rear passenger and both pads. Still ran hot so I changed all brake lines in the back, even the metal line and splitter. Today i hit the outside of the axle just under the lug nut cover with temp laser and both were at 115 so its not the bearing. I am going to flush the brake lines even though they are new. What the hell can it be? This is the second caliper we have warranted.
I'm at a loss as well. I suppose the only way to be sure is to unbolt the caliper and check with a clamp if that caliper is seized again. If it is, remove the flex line and check if it unseizes. I doubt that a new flex line would have collapsed but at this point, it doesn't make much sense to assume anything.
Going to jack up rear end tonight and spin wheels after applying brakes. If i feel resistance we will have to pull caliper and check it or maybe swap it out again. ran better today but still 70* hotter than driver side.
Jacked up the truck flush the brake lines with all brand new fluid and the caliper is dragging just a little bit. so we're going to swap calipers again. this will be the third one. if that don't work switch brands
Have you looked at the abs module? I could see something being dorked up with the abs module or the tone ring, the computer freaking out, and the ECM trying to trigger traction control by randomly applying the brakes on that wheel.
That’s the only reason I thought of it. I remember my mom’s old 93 blazer was the first vehicle I worked on with ABS (was a nightmare bleeding those things while laying on a gravel driveway) and it was rear only.
I've had my truck 12 years and just about every time I have gone to do routine brake work, I have had to replace a seized caliper. I think these calipers rely on very clean and moisture free fluid. Routine brake flushes are important for caliper life. Though, I don't think that, in itself, explains the OP's issue.
We were going to warranty a 3rd caliper but over the last three days I have not smell my brakes at all burning. So last night we jacked the truck up and now the tire is spinning free I guess it took an extra long time for that brake caliper piston to break in. I have never seen a brake caliper take 3 weeks to break in
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