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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Rear brake issue

Hello everyone! I'm a proud owner of a 2004 ram 2500 with 140k on her. New to the forum, and I have spent quite some time looking for an answer to my question before asking any to make sure that I'm not intentionally asking boring repeat stuff. That being said, here we go:

My trucks rear passenger brake gets hotter than my rear drivers side. Upon first notice I had just left the dealership where I bought it and drove 49 min home. When I got there, the side in question was smoking and smelled like burnt rubber/plastic. I did the customary checks like pull release parking brake. I thought that maybe the truck sat too long at the dealers so maybe stuff was "locked" up. So I take apart that side to inspect...brake pads although are original they have plenty of life and have EVEN wear (so I left them alone). Took rotor off and inspected park shoes that where in about same condition as pads (I was mainly checking to see if gear oil leaked out indicating bad seals) area was what I consider dry aside from oily surface on axle (about as much oil as on a teenage face), so I ruled that out. Now I turned my attention to the caliper...saw that the piston cups had cracked missing seal boots so I didn't even mess with it and replaced it with a new one. Bled the system (used a one man bleeder and my wife in drivers seat so I could stay at the brake. I had her push brake down and hold it repeatedly until the new caliper filled with fluid, and made sure to tend the master with additional fluid. Once the new caliper was full and pads touching rotor, I bled as normal.

Took truck for a test drive at night to get some kind of base line on left/right temp difference. I drove 1/3 the distance as when I bought it and then checked wheel areas for heat. Passenger side is still a lot hotter than drivers. What could I be missing? Would my wheel bearing cause this heat up? Is it even suspect at 140k

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 04:18 PM
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warped rotor?
stuck slide pins?
bad "rebuild caliper"?
rubber hoses collapsing, metal hose damaged?

jack truck up does wheel bearing feel okay, same on both sides?
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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I lubed new pins, caliper bleeds fine so no collapsed brake line...unsure about warped rotor. I could put a straight edge on it to better than guess I suppose. The new caliper functions as to be expected, so I can rule that out. The bearings seem ok...as in I don't hear grinding or feel grinding when rolling tire by hand. I'm missing or misdiagnosis something, but I have no clue. I even adjusted my park brake all the way in so it stays off the rotor...
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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You would also think if I had bad bearings, my seal would probably be leaking, coating my ebrake with diff lube and turning all black and nasty....right?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 06:24 PM
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if bearings just started ie pitting, to go, seal could still be okay
check gear oil ?
Have seen rubber hose internally break, becomes like one way valve usually seen as soft, bigger diameter section where damage is with pressure applied.
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We have quite a few issues with rebuild calipers we always try to get new ones if possible.
No abs issues/codes ?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:20 PM
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I'd say rubber line. Just cause it bleeds doesn't meaan a thing. Also did you replace the calipers in a set?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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I'm doing my outer wheel bearings and seals. Ordered them online should be here in a few days. Now, I did not replace the drivers side caliper, but what got me to do seals and bearing is I took off the other side to compare and that side was coated in gear oil and wet...went back to the problem side and looked closer at ebrake shoes and they seem to have a lot of glaze build up on them and I can see where they have been polishing the inside of the rotor. After I replace bearings I'll be sure to check my oil level. And I'll also have the wife hold the brake pedal and check for collapsed line (good tip). I'll let yall know how it goes. I've read up on how to go back with the axle nut, but I'm a little uneasy about setting it correctly. It's funny, I build steam,nuclear,gas turbines but I'm chicken to correctly set a nut on my truck...
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 12:14 PM
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Do the hose before condemn the bearings.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 12:22 PM
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If you found gear oil replace both seals and axle flange gaskets. Your bearings are good. Next check the park brake cables. I thought mine were fully release till I unhooked them and I could release them further. Turned out to be a bad springs on the cable end. They were just weak over time.

But I would replace both calipers, and the flex lines. Then do both seals since you said there was oil.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Can I remove park brake cable and leave it off? Or do I have to replace it. I'm the type that never uses it... for that matter, can I just delete the page brake components all together?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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I can leave park brake cable off? Or do I have to replace it? For that matter can I just delete all the parking brake components all together?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Oops! Didn't mean to double post...srry.
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