Many of you know I have been trying different things with the EGR. The mission was to try to fool the EGR to think it was working while leaving it totally stock looking.
Unplugging stock EGR
Just unplugging the EGR is very effective by itself. However it is not conclusive to removing all the soot from the intake. The EGR valve bleeds off the soot and condensation as you drive. It's possible it only does it when the exhaust brake is in use. But I am pretty sure, high speeds has enough pressure to push the valve open, defeating the purpose, but it's better than nothing.
This is the best way to do it. All the other attempts to fool it were failures.
Blocking the EGR Valve
This is a good idea, but soot piles up on the blocker plates. Condensation piles up as well. Test Run was 500 miles
I tried drilling some bleeder holes in the plates, but they weren't enough. While there was no condensation, the soot was still there. In 500 miles, the weep hole did reduce the soot some.
Complete Blocking EGR System
I then plugged the end of the cross over tube with a freeze plug. Dorman #555-020 This worked well, maintained the stock look. I made new blocker plates and put them in with the tube plugged.
Partial blocking EGR
I drilled a 1/16 hole in the end of the Cross Over plug and re-installed the bleeder plates. I plugged in the EGR. This worked for about 30 miles, but threw the truck into a frenzy, causing it to go into Regen with the Code Free Gen 2 in place.
I enlarged the same hole to 5/16 and tried it again. Same results, but in 45 miles.
My next step was to put the flapper back in. This ran for about 150 miles, then the truck went into a limp mode. Had to unplug the EGR to get the truck back on line.
So the final conclusion is the EGR cannot be mechanically fooled. For the best results, completely delete it or put the freeze plug and blocker plates in the system so it looks real. But I warn you, the truck will get squirrelly with the valve plugged in.
Just unplugging it works, but not complete. With it just unplugged, the following was observed.
*Lower intake temps by 20 to 25 degrees
*Lower EGT's by as much as 200 Degrees
* Longer warm ups
* Exhaust gas is still leaking into the intake. A complete block will reduce the EGT's by 50 degrees and the intake by 5 to 10 degrees.
So my test #2 and #4 is the best of all. I suggest you all follow suit to achieve the best results.
Now I have to figure out how to get that plug out of my cross over so I can replug it