The Solenoid Switch Valve (SSV) is actually in the main valve body. It is not part of the solenoid module, so replacing the solenoid will not fix it. The solenoid module is also part of the main valve body assy.
P1776 indicates that the SSV is stuck in one position. It could just be due to a piece of debris that has jammed the valve, and if that's the case, then you can just drop the pan, pull the VB
assy out, disassemble it, clean the valve, and bolt it all back together. But while you're at it, you should check the diameter of the outer end of the SSV bore. It is very common for this bore to get worn oversize, and if that's the case then you should replace the entire VB
assy with a new one from Mopar.
On top of the valve body is a sliding code plate (that moves when you run the shift lever back and forth). Inside the center “chunk” of the valve body, underneath this sliding plate, are two valves - the manual valve (which has a pin that engages the slot in the code plate - this is the valve that moves when you move the shift lever) and the SSV. The SSV is retained by a rectangular plastic retainer, and it has three (3) barrel-shaped plugs at the outer end of its bore. You want to check the size of the four (4) outer lands in this bore (where the plugs slide). The diameter should be 11.544 mm (0.454 inch) max. If any of the lands are worn oversize, replace the entire VB
assy with a new Mopar VB
. The diesel (68RFE) VB
is RL033980AC ($510 list).
The new Mopar VBs are all anodized to resist the SSV wear, so your new VB
should last much longer than the original one. All 2010 MY (and later) RFE transmissions already have an anodized VB
. Note that Mopar uses a "reman" part number for the diesel VB
. This is so we can get the old VB
back for core. But the service VBs are all new (anodized) units now.
Make SURE when you reinstall the VB
that the slot on the code plate's vertical arm lines up with the pin on the manual lever (the one inside the case, that rotates when you move the shift lever). Leave the shift lever in Park when you pull the VB
, and then make sure the code plate is slid to the Park position (fully rearward, with detent roller up against the code plate's vertical arm) before you bolt it in. If it's not lined up correctly, you will break off the pin on the lever, and then you have to pull the trans and tear it down completely in order to replace the lever! Good luck!