68RFE shift lever not moving normally - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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68RFE shift lever not moving normally

Hello All,

I recently bought a 2009 2500 4x4 DCD at auction that was totaled out after the front drive shaft came loose and reeked havoc. It appears that after the T-case split like a melon, the front of the drive shaft stayed attached to the locked front differential while every component within reach took a good beating. The transmission shift cable got wrapped up and yanked out of the steering column. From what I can tell it looks like the drive shaft actually smacked the shaft that the cable connects to on the driver side of the tranny. The very end of the shaft looks like someone smacked it a few times with a hammer (it has some noticable mushroom effect). When I grabbed the linkage that pushes onto that shaft with my channel locks and tried to rotate it to feel the familiar clicks when it shifts, and unfortunately it barely moved and no clicking at all. I'm a bit worried that the shift shaft getting hit may have shoved it in too far and did damage. Do we have anyone here who is very familiar with the inside of the 68RFE to the point that they feel confident they know what's going on with my tranny? If I pull the pan, will I be able to diagnose much further, or will it take lots more digging? Thanks in advance!


My garage: #1. 1991 W250 CTD (passed on to my son), #2. 2000 2500 CTD 4x4, #3. 2009 2500 SXT 6.7L 68RFE
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
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Pictures...
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My garage: #1. 1991 W250 CTD (passed on to my son), #2. 2000 2500 CTD 4x4, #3. 2009 2500 SXT 6.7L 68RFE
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 10:12 AM
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Probably something happened to the fork on the inside. You need to remove the pan and the valvebody.
Easy to do just 1 bolt for the filter and 6 for the valvebody then it's hopefully easy to se what happened.

Patrik Lindblom Sweden
08 Dodge Ram 2500
6.7 Cummins. Carrillo rod's. Garrett gtx4088r/gtx5018r. 2x Tial 44mm wastegate. Stainlessdiesel T4 manifold. Hamilton 188-220 108LSA. Hamilton valve spring's and pushrod's. BBi stage III injectors. Ats twin cp3. Devil's own water meth. Fass 220gph Titanium. ATS stage4 (Revmax OD)68rfe. ARP625. N2O
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lidas, I think I'll have to drop the valve body and take a look. I found a rebuild video that shows how it looks inside and how easily it should move. I'll try to update this with what I find in case anyone is curious. Here's the 68RFE rebuild video with a timestamp that shows the gear select shaft...

https://youtu.be/AfRUocMZPEk?t=6784
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I saw after dropping the valve body. The shaft got knocked into the case deeper than it is supposed to be. I'm not certain if it's bent. The torx screw (T-30) right below it has a pin of sorts built into it that appears to serve the purpose of keeping the shift shaft from sliding too far in or out of the case. The screw/pin looks fine. It's not really clear how this whole shift shaft assembly is removed. Is there a circlip behind the seal?
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My garage: #1. 1991 W250 CTD (passed on to my son), #2. 2000 2500 CTD 4x4, #3. 2009 2500 SXT 6.7L 68RFE
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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And the screw/pin...
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My garage: #1. 1991 W250 CTD (passed on to my son), #2. 2000 2500 CTD 4x4, #3. 2009 2500 SXT 6.7L 68RFE
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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So just in case someone else has to replace their "manual shaft" later and comes across this post, I'll finish documenting what it takes. Mine was damaged (prior to me buying the truck) when struck by a front driveshaft that had come loose after the transfer case split into pieces. The retainer screw/pin (pictured above) prevented the manual shaft from getting knocked into the case, but the shaft was marred pretty bad and no longer moved freely, necessitating replacement. It turns out that in order to remove and replace the manual shaft, the transmission has to be removed from the truck and the gear train completely removed in order to make clearance to swap the $25 manual shaft. Yup, fun stuff! Here is a photo showing the damaged shaft and replacement side by side. (I also chopped the outer portion off with my Sawzall prior to figuring out it still wasn't going to be removable until complete tear down.)

Now after inspection, I guess I'll be rebuilding this 68RFE with at least new frictions and seals. Here is a photo showing some degraded overdrive frictions...
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My garage: #1. 1991 W250 CTD (passed on to my son), #2. 2000 2500 CTD 4x4, #3. 2009 2500 SXT 6.7L 68RFE
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