Another Valve Lash Thread? Sorry? this one's different? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Another Valve Lash Thread? Sorry? this one's different?

I'd like to issue a Gigantic Thank you to All of Cummins forum for both causing and hopefully resolving my current predicament :-P

I just passed 202,000 miles on my '07 ram 6.7 and because of a coolant leak from my Mishimoto radiator, It was time to pull it in the ship and disassemble some things.

One of the items on my list was a long over due valve lash check.

I googled "how to" found a few instructions on here, and went to work. following guide lines for "2003 to 2014 24 valve".. Setting my Lash (which was way out) to .010in and .020ex...
however while replacing my valve cover I noticed a label that says ".010in and .026ex" for the lash settings.... This gave me a moment of pause.

and i googled again. finding many threads here on CF that seem to be split down the middle about if the 6.7 should follow Dodge/Cummins guide lines of .026ex or to tighten them up to .020 as the old 5.9's had. (especially on the deleted trucks)

I've also found people on here that claim that Cummins/Dodge moved it back down to .020 in the model year 2015 and later..adding to the confusion.


So my question, is has anyone here been running their '07ish 6.7 - deleted truck - at at 0.020 on the exhaust side with heavy towing and factory exhaust brake for any length of time?

the obvious concern is for me I don't want to burn up a valve or 12 next time I hook up to the camper or skid loader and climb a big mountain.

but I also don't really want to open the sucker back up and loosen them back out to .026 if that's not really needed... especially since most people here report increased fuel economy and power after adjusting the lash...


2007 3500 6.7 QC SRW 4x4 6spd smarty sr+edge with Juice ; deleted : 5" TBE : 285/75/17's - 2" HBS level kit
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:05 PM
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You aren't going to burn up a valved because they are 5 thousandths tighter. As long as you have an EGT gauge and keep those in check it will be as good as it gets. If nothing else it will help smooth out the engine somewhat. We typically run the valves at .008 and .018 for spool and smoothness.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
You aren't going to burn up a valved because they are 5 thousandths tighter. As long as you have an EGT gauge and keep those in check it will be as good as it gets. If nothing else it will help smooth out the engine somewhat. We typically run the valves at .008 and .018 for spool and smoothness.



Thanks for the reply!

I do have a edge tuner with cts and the egt probe in the rear manifold egr block off plate
I rarely ever see egts above 1200. But Iíll hold 900-1100 for 20-30 minutes when pushing up a long hill with my camper.

I donít usually back off the throttle unless I see water temps above 215-220...

Thatís in check right?

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 08:51 PM
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It sounds reasonable. Just keep in mind that plate is not really in the exhaust stream so it might not read as accurately as it could.

What settings are you running the Smarty on? Assume you have an S-67?

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
It sounds reasonable. Just keep in mind that plate is not really in the exhaust stream so it might not read as accurately as it could.



What settings are you running the Smarty on? Assume you have an S-67?

I have heard that about being out of stream.. I guess I just used it that way because the kit came with the hole tapped and I wasnít keen on tapping my manifold... I suppose if I burn up a turbo or something someday Iíll get more serious about it.


Yes s67 on 2 ď60hp no timingĒ

Edge Juice with attitude adds timing and I can ramp it up if I want but I usually run their 2-tow for towing and ď3 driveĒ for normal stuff.
Itís a work truck that doubles as a minivan for us so itís not racing, doing burnouts or pulling sleds..

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muduck18 View Post
I'd like to issue a Gigantic Thank you to All of Cummins forum for both causing and hopefully resolving my current predicament :-P

I just passed 202,000 miles on my '07 ram 6.7 and because of a coolant leak from my Mishimoto radiator, It was time to pull it in the ship and disassemble some things.

One of the items on my list was a long over due valve lash check.

I googled "how to" found a few instructions on here,
nd went to work. following guide lines for "2003 to 2014 24 valve".. Setting my Lash (which was way out) to .010in and .020ex...
however while replacing my valve cover I noticed a label that says ".010in and .026ex" for the lash settings.... This gave me a moment of pause.

and i googled again. finding many threads here on CF that seem to be split down the middle about if the 6.7 should follow Dodge/Cummins guide lines of .026ex or to tighten them up to .020 as the old 5.9's had. (especially on the deleted trucks)

I've also found people on here that claim that Cummins/Dodge moved it back down to .020 in the model year 2015 and later..adding to the confusion.


So my question, is has anyone here been running their '07ish 6.7 - deleted truck - at at 0.020 on the exhaust side with heavy towing and factory exhaust brake for any length of time?

the obvious concern is for me I don't want to burn up a valve or 12 next time I hook up to the camper or skid loader and climb a big mountain.

but I also don't really want to open the sucker back up and loosen them back out to .026 if that's not really needed... especially since most people here report increased fuel economy and power after adjusting the lash...


Your good to go with what I see in your signature. Top end exhaust side runs cooler. Less expansion. Now with your clearances tighter it opens farther and breathes more. Intake and exhaust.
Should be noticeably quieter. It’s amazing what a 2019 sounds like at idle from the footage I have seen with 0 clearance.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:36 PM
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I would take that EJ off and sell it, their tendency to run too much timing and pressure is simply not good for any engine especially one that has more fuel added. Too much timing and too much plus injectors going south will not be a good ride.

The 2019 doesn't have 0 lash it has hydraulic lifters, just can't hear the lash it has.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
I would take that EJ off and sell it, their tendency to run too much timing and pressure is simply not good for any engine especially one that has more fuel added. Too much timing and too much plus injectors going south will not be a good ride.



The 2019 doesn't have 0 lash it has hydraulic lifters, just can't hear the lash it has.



The smarty has been on the truck since it was deleted ~160,000mi ago or so... the juice has been on it for the past 30k ish. I liked just the smarty itself for me... but
I really like the turbo run down timer, rear view camera and gauge cluster stuff it has.
And I like to be able to dial the power down to 0 if I loan it to my dad or let my wife drive it.

Iíve thought about running the juice with the injector modules bypassed basically just an insight but I donít know if it will function the same...

As far as selling it.. I donít know what the market is for a tuner for a 12 year old truck? And I like too many of the features so Iíd have to replace it with something. I think Iíll just keep running it and keep my foot out of it the best I can until something breaks...

Three young kids a wife and a Jeep habit to support the work horse needs to just work.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again to everyone for the feed back.
Got the radiator back in, and the maintenance all buttoned up last week. So i started putting some miles on it again.

First of all the noise difference is amazing. I read a bunch of threads on here about how much quieter it was after the lash adjustment but I didn't really expect it to sound that much different. Idle and low rpm noise is drastically quieter.

I also didn't think I'd notice any performance difference, but there is no question that it boosts lower in the RPM range, and more specifically lower in the throttle input. When I push on the throttle there is almost always a reading on the boost gauge now, where before if I was just slightly on the throttle or just semi-coasting with no real work on the motor the boost would drop to 0.

The amount of boost it makes is different now too. Previously I have never seen the boost gauge go above 32psi.. I now see 35 and 37 if I push it... I have not ventured to WOT yet... I don't know if that's something I'll ever do.. well maybe..


However. there is one noticeable draw back. (imho and I know there are some that like this but I don't) It now throws smoke when I accelerate heavily.
I rarely ever in the past have seen any smoke out the tailpipe of this truck. Tuned, with edge and smarty I would have to work hard at the lagging of the motor to get smoke, and I don't do that. because I don't like it.....

but now it seems anytime I try to pass someone on the highway, or take off relatively quickly from a stop, it gives a noticeable poof of black smoke. once the turbo spools up it goes away, But this is new for me and I don't like it. (#grumpy-old-young-guy. )


Is this a side effect that people have had from a lash adjustment before?


EDIT: Quick note, I have the edge set to "disable until warm" which will not change any of the performance settings until the engine coolant temperature is up to temp. and while the yellow light is on - on the edge - the truck does not smoke its only after the edge comes out of "backdown" that the smoke happens. So it seems that the edge is causing it but I don't know why that would be different now than it was before? is this was cerberusiam was saying about the edge adding too much timing?

Maybe I should start a different thread for this one?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:25 AM
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More timing would cut down the smoke not increase it, the Edge is adding fuel above what the Smarty is doing and you get smoke. I would turn all the Edge functions off and see how it works with just Smarty tuning.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerberusiam View Post
More timing would cut down the smoke not increase it, the Edge is adding fuel above what the Smarty is doing and you get smoke. I would turn all the Edge functions off and see how it works with just Smarty tuning.
Thanks. I will tinker with that. The Smarty is set to not add timing so I guess if the edge isn't adding the right amount it could be the issue...
I had read a bit on here about making sure not to add too much, and that stacking them can be problematic. So I followed as much of the instructions i could to run it safely, I guess now that the engine is arguably operating better it could need some more tweaking...
I'll start with pulling the Edge stuff down to 0..

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