White Smoke under hood / Diesel Smell in Cab - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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White Smoke under hood / Diesel Smell in Cab

Hello all,

I have a 2008 Ram 2500 Megacab with the 6.7l engine. Since I bought it last month, there has been intermittent white smoke coming out from under the hood on the driver side, very near where the batteries are. When this happens, a strong diesel exhaust smell comes in the cab, even with the heater/AC OFF.

There is no loss of power. No CEL. Only a "Perform Service" warning on the overhead display console. I have a 75 mile beach trip coming up this Wednesday. Is this something that needs to be addressed immediately?

Truck seems to be running fine otherwise.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:05 AM
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Hmm, are you deleted? Regen smells like diesel to me, and makes some haze out the tail pipe. I guess an exhaust leak under the hood while in regen could be a thing, just spit balling.

I think the first thing I would do it confirm where the smoke is coming from. Thatís gonna be a big help.

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:18 AM
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How is your DPF? If it isn't clean, it will do exactly that. It should be removed and cleaned every 125k I think its 125. Check your manual, I had an 09 that did the same thing. It about drove me crazy trying to figure it out. Hope this helps. Best of luck.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:19 AM
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Stupid autocorrect. Not you dog, sorry about that, you DPF.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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The truck is 100% stock and has 107k miles on it. All emissions equipment is intact, and no deletes are on it, nor has it had any in the past.

The white smoke is more like a whisp, and not a flurry of smoke. Every time I run and open the hood, the smoke disappears so I can't pinpoint the exact location.

So a possibility is that the DPF needs to be cleaned? Geminijeff76, did you notice a strong exhaust/diesel smell along with the white smoke under the hood?

Would replacing the ccv filter fix the smell?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 02:30 AM
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White Smoke under hood / Diesel Smell in Cab

Did you do the 67,500 mile service? It calls for the CCV and a full egr cleaning. The crank case vents into the turbo, so you shouldnít smell it, but you should definitely do the CCV filter at proper intervals, faster, like every 50k IMO.

I have not read much on ďcleaningĒ the dpf externally. But if you get out on the highway for a good long 45min 65+mph run, that should passively clean the dpf, but really you should be getting messages on the over head or codes about the dpf if itís getting full.

But seriously, all we can do is take stabs in the dark without more info. Is there codes? Overhead messages? Got to find the slrice of the smoke or haze? All services up to par?

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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I do not know whether the CCV has been replaced, or whether the EGR has been cleaned at the 67k interval, as I bought it last month. The truck is in the shop now, as I did not want to take any chances before heading off to the beach tomorrow. I will post later today with an update on what the shop finds. The shop I took it to is very reputable here in town, and I've had nothing but good experiences with them. They know their stuff.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:25 PM
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Well, on a side note, if you donít k ow the history, you definitely want to just do the EGR service (aka 67,500 mile service), itís pretty crucial on theses trucks that it gets done at proper intervals (imo 40-50k not 67,500). If that egr valve clogs up your in for a works of hurt, dead turbo, dead dpf, lord know what to the engine.


Will that fix for issue? Idk, I donít think thereís enough information collected yet to determine a possible cause.

Overly diesel smell from the tail pipe is a sign of active regen from what I have seen, a malfunctioning egr would cause the dpf to clog up super fast to the point itís al

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Well the shop did a test on the emissions system and found that the EGR bypass valve is leaking. The shop said the EGR bypass valve needs to be replaced. The cost for the part alone is $1,280 with labor costing a little north of $500. The CCV filter needs to be replaced too (they called it the PCV filter on the invoice but I suspect its really the CCV filter. Assuming I'm correct, this is a $50 part that takes 20 minutes to replace. The shop wants $199 plus labor for it.

The cost for the EGR bypass valve is a little suspicious. I've asked my brother in law who owns a clutch shop to make an inquiry to his parts dealer for the EGR bypass valve. I'll be doing the replacement myself.

Either that, or I'll end up deleting the entire EGR system. If this is the route I end up taking, I'm pretty sure I will go with the Sinister EGR delete kit. I just don't know what tuner to go with, to stop the CEL from lighting up every time I start the engine.

EGR Bypass valve replacement video:

CCV filter replacement video:
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 01:16 AM
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White Smoke under hood / Diesel Smell in Cab

Good glad you spruced the issue.

As far at a leak goes, how could those leak? There so robust, it makes me think itís just a gasket. The EGR service kit from Genos garage is 100$ comes with all the egr system gaskets, CCV filter and instructions

Edit: mine was leaking one time, but it was out of the crossover tube, it took a new gasket and a new v band clamp to stop it

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm thanks for the suggestion to try the EGR cleaning kit from Geno's garage. I was thinking about the bypass valve, and to me, it does not make sense that it would by itself be leaking. Like you said, it has to be a gasket.

I will try the EGR cleaning kit from Geno's. Replace all the gaskets plus the CCV filter. I'll update here on how that goes in a few weeks.

One of the review on the 07-12 EGR cleaning kit page on Geno's mentions that the "back nuts" have to be torqued to 85ft lbs because he was smelling exhaust after doing the kit. Tightening to 85ft lbs fixed this issue. Can you explain where the "back nuts" are, since you have done this yourself as well.

Quote:
best money saved
Aug 15, 2017 | By Scott
this kit saved me at least $800. It took me about 10 hrs to complete but well worth it. The only thing I would add to the directions is a torque spec for the two hard to reach nuts in the back.. I thought I had them tight but if they are not you will smell the exhaust in your cab with ac on. I torqued mine to 85 ft lbs and that worked for me. otherwise a great kit that saves a lot of money.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LastRideOut View Post
Hmmm thanks for the suggestion to try the EGR cleaning kit from Geno's garage. I was thinking about the bypass valve, and to me, it does not make sense that it would by itself be leaking. Like you said, it has to be a gasket.



I will try the EGR cleaning kit from Geno's. Replace all the gaskets plus the CCV filter. I'll update here on how that goes in a few weeks.



One of the review on the 07-12 EGR cleaning kit page on Geno's mentions that the "back nuts" have to be torqued to 85ft lbs because he was smelling exhaust after doing the kit. Tightening to 85ft lbs fixed this issue. Can you explain where the "back nuts" are, since you have done this yourself as well.



Yea the back nuts on the cooler are know to be a little bit of a pain, I have taken my cooler off twice now, I didnít think it was that bad though. People talk about all the contraptions they made up to get them back on on, I donít get it. I just jammed my arm back there and put it on with my fingers. Laid up on top the motor, left arm went in from behind the cooler to the back right nut. Took me 1 try and just about a minute to do. Getting the right combo of socket and extension length to reach the nut but fit under the cowl was the hard part IMO. As for 85#, I didnít torque mine, I couldnít get my T-wrench back there, I just put it on good and tight with my socket wrench and itís been just fine. You will see leaks easy, there will be black soot blowing out of the leak haha. The rear trick there is to use the new gaskets from the Genos kit, itís like 4-5 layers where stock was 2 layers. The kit gasket seals up much much better.

Now that Iím deleted, I still decided leaving the EGR system in place was best for me. It makes returning to stock much easier down the road if needed. I just run it ďdisabledĒ with the exhaust parts removed/deleted. So a good service and new gaskets wonít h be a waste of your time, even thought I was deleting. I wonít be doing it often though since itís not even used. So it stays, at least until my stock turbo bites the dust, then upgrade might be in order and the EGR wonít hook up to a 2nd gen swap.

When you do the service, use purple power cleaner, I soaked my cooler and egr valve in purple power for about 12 house, and it came out clean as new when I rinsed it out. I didnít bother ďair blowing it outĒ first, I didnít want the soot in the air, I went straight to water hose in the grass to get the loose stuff off then sent it to the purple bath in a bucket.


Ohh also, if the cooler is intact, itís important that you bleed the cooling system right. There is a ďhigh pointĒ vent coolant riser thing. You canít miss it. Make sure you squeeze the top radiator hose and get the air out of that vent, coolant should come out when topped off. Then check it again a few days later. Any air in the cooler will make it crack and dump coolant into the exhaust. Iím pretty sure this is the reasons that vent is on there.. ***the vent plug can be very hard to remove, DONT STRIP IT! (personal experience here) it needs heat. I suggest you break it free one day when you just shut down from a full temp drive, then later when itís cool and you go to service the egr you can get it off. Otherwise use a torch to heat it up.

2008 6.7 2500 4x4 Auto 3.73
2000 5.9 3500 4x4 Auto 4.10 (sold)
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