Transfer case linkage - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Transfer case linkage

Has anyone else had the transfer case shifter linkage fall off? Tried switching to 4x4 the other day and realized the stick moved freely. Crawled under and no linkage.

Anyone have a part number for one? I have an 07 3500


07.5 Black 6.7 Cummins ..... 4 Door 4x4 BADP Gen 1 5" TBE, EGR/Cooler delete, B&W gooseneck, Prodigy P3 .. custom made shift knob and much more to come hopefully
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 07:31 AM
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did you get yours fixed? found mine like that this morning on the way to work.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 04:14 PM
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A "better" fix...

This is fairly common. The linkage is nothing more than a metal rod held in by two rubber grommets. In time, those rubber grommets waste away. A new bar with grommets will probably be $30-$35, but I'm not satisfied with fixing a problem so that it will just reoccur, so I started looking into upgrading the linkage to something more lasting.

After spending too much time researching something this simple, I finally got a threaded connecting rod and two self-lubed ball joint rod ends (aka, hemispherical or heim joint studs) from McMaster-Carr. With shipping, it came to about $33.

My main concern was fitment. I didn't have the rod to measure the distance between the 4WD shifter and the transfer case lever precisely. The shifter was totally loose, and the original part's design of having a set screw at one end suggested the distance may vary between trucks. For my truck, I used a tape measure and guesstimated right around 14" is what I needed, give or take a bit. The McMaster-Carr website provides detailed measurements of the parts, so I dove into the math to look for something with a range around 14".

I was able to determine that with the above 12" rod that's threaded to 1 1/4" deep on each side mated with two rod ends that were 1 15/16" from the base of the shaft to the center of the stud, and having 1 1/4" threaded shafts themselves, that gave me a range of approx. 13 3/8" to 15 3/8" if I resolved to no less than 1/4" of used thread at both ends. 1/4" of thread may not sound like much, but at #24 thread, it's still a fair bit.

So with that range I accepted the risk and ordered the parts for what a new OEM rod would cost. It fit perfectly (I ended up using about nearly 1" of thread at each end) and I'm quite happy with the very solid, click feel of a direct connection (not rubbery). I picked up a couple of nylon lock nuts, washers, and jam nuts at a local hardware store.

Note: this is for my 2005 short bed quad cab, so your mileage may vary.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 11:33 PM
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That's a really good idea. Thanks for posting the info for your permanent fix.

John
08 6.7 QC SB 4x4 "hand-shaker" edition, SMARTY powered
Details and Instructions at CarboniteCummins.com
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 08:14 PM
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Hey startrek if my measurement for the linkage is just over 10" would I go with the 6" or 9" threaded rod? I don't want it to be to long once I out the ends on
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 09:33 PM
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I did this mod and today it binded up somewhat I forced it and it ripped the ends out of the turnbuckles



https://photos.app.goo.gl/teRNdiMhvPd4vK6e7
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