What is The Differance in Head Studs??? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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What is The Differance in Head Studs???

I am in the need of getting some head studs and it is a must for the future with my twins build. So, I have been looking around and have come to notice there is 2 different head studs that are offered for the 6.7?

What is the differance in the two? here are the links to the two different one. There is a $600 price differance in the two.

ARP New Age 625 Dodge 6.7L CR Cummins Cylinder Head Stud Kit from Automotive Racing Products
[247-4204] $1,159.00
Cummins 625 Head Studs ARP 247-4204

ARP 12MM 07.5-2010 6.7L 24V Cummins Cylinder Head Stud Kit from Automotive Racing Products
[ARP-247-4202] $455.17
6.7L Cummins Head Studs ARP 247-4202

The 625 head studs say on the website 625 plus? does that mean 625hp or more???


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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 12:13 AM
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i don't know about horse power lots of people running over 625hp on the arp 425's. the 625's to install u have to bore out the hole if I'm correct

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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 03:48 AM
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The difference is the tensile strength and corrosion resistance. You do sadly want the 1k 625 bolts. The 425 will only do the job for so long and then give out specially with twins.. But you can find the studs for 950 at a few shops from the forum here..

The 625 can be torqued down way harder the the 425.


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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 03:49 AM
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Oh also the holes don't need to be bored out for the studs unless you specify you want to do so..


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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 07:40 AM
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625's all the way! Do it once and do it right the first time. You and your cylinder head will thank you later on when you decide you want throw some crazy bolt-ons at the truck. RSD has a better price on the 625's as well. James is great to deal with!

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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Dam, Awesome info guys! Well that sucks that they are a grand. But, I guess you have to pay to play!

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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 02:51 PM
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The 425's you can say are about 10% better than stock and the 625's are i think 40% better as far as holding strength. The only thing that needs to be done is run a bottom tap to clean the threads real good.

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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 05:34 PM
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Don't forget about the H-11 studs from A1. They are less than the 625s, but more than 425s. If you want even more clamping force you can also order the H-11s in 14mm which does require drilling out the block and retapping. Normally they are 12mm studs though, and for most of us it will be more than enough. One of the most important things is making sure your head and block are flat.

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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT6.7 View Post
Oh also the holes don't need to be bored out for the studs unless you specify you want to do so..
Its not so much of boring out as bottom tapping.

With the factory head bolts they use a pretty long lead angle tap when hitting the block on initial machining. This means that there are several (4-5) threads at the bottom of the hole that aren't fully cut.

When you put in 625's, to take full advantage of their strength you should bottom tap every hole. Using a bottom tap on each hole will pretty much cut every thread fully right up until about the very last thread, which even the stud isn't going to have a full thread on.

Just FYI.

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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villa Style View Post
The 425's you can say are about 10% better than stock and the 625's are i think 40% better as far as holding strength. The only thing that needs to be done is run a bottom tap to clean the threads real good.
Thats Some good info Thanks Man

Quote:
Originally Posted by operator62 View Post
Don't forget about the H-11 studs from A1. They are less than the 625s, but more than 425s. If you want even more clamping force you can also order the H-11s in 14mm which does require drilling out the block and retapping. Normally they are 12mm studs though, and for most of us it will be more than enough. One of the most important things is making sure your head and block are flat.
I have never even looked in to these head studs before, where did you get your at?

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Originally Posted by Shibbyutman View Post
Its not so much of boring out as bottom tapping.

With the factory head bolts they use a pretty long lead angle tap when hitting the block on initial machining. This means that there are several (4-5) threads at the bottom of the hole that aren't fully cut.

When you put in 625's, to take full advantage of their strength you should bottom tap every hole. Using a bottom tap on each hole will pretty much cut every thread fully right up until about the very last thread, which even the stud isn't going to have a full thread on.

Just FYI.
Wow there is a little more to this than I was expecting!

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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibbyutman View Post
Its not so much of boring out as bottom tapping.

With the factory head bolts they use a pretty long lead angle tap when hitting the block on initial machining. This means that there are several (4-5) threads at the bottom of the hole that aren't fully cut.

When you put in 625's, to take full advantage of their strength you should bottom tap every hole. Using a bottom tap on each hole will pretty much cut every thread fully right up until about the very last thread, which even the stud isn't going to have a full thread on.

Just FYI.
man that would be a to tap out all them holes espically the ones in the back!!

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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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What is the rating on the H-11 head studs? and where can you get them at? I have been just looking around for them to read up on, but have had trouble finding them on websites.

Just was curious, cause it looks like a few people on here are running them.

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