Ebay EGR delete vs Sinister - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 6.7L Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ebay EGR delete vs Sinister

Any difference from this kit from ebay at $29

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Delete-...00c254c42ef660

vs the $200 Sinister EGR delete kit, or the $162 GDP EGR delete kit?

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 02:26 PM
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Nope, no way I would spend more than 30 on a egr delete kit just to have someone’s brand name stuck on it. SAF.

I got a cheapie and it works just fine it’s all the same crap. I do plan on deleting the coolant riser and just plugging the block just to clean things up. but that’s for a later time when I’m board, or the next time I need to drain the coolant for some other reason.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I had a tough time justifying the cost for the $200 Sinister kit over the $30-60 ebay kits. I went ahead and got the $30 kit. Hey, the worst that can happen is a leak, and I'm out just $30 instead of $200+.

I'm excited to get my truck back up and running. It's been sitting for some time now. The DPF delete pipe and tuner will both be here in a few weeks. Been taking my time, but I'm learning quite a bit along the way.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 12:13 AM
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Excellent! learning is good

If itís gonna leak itís because of the metal layered gaskets, not cheap the kit. Thereís nothing special to it so the sinister kit is grossly overpriced.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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I agree. Sinister sells a $100 throttle valve delete which is expensive considering it for what it is. Tomorrow I am going to do my own throttle valve delete by simply removing the butterfly valve in the intake. I understand it is secured by two screws on both sides of the valve. Should take me about an hour to do tomorrow. I figure removing the butterfly valve myself is the route to go, since it essentially does the same thing as Sinister's tv delete.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:58 AM
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I got my tv for 20 on amazon

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastRideOut View Post
I agree. Sinister sells a $100 throttle valve delete which is expensive considering it for what it is. Tomorrow I am going to do my own throttle valve delete by simply removing the butterfly valve in the intake. I understand it is secured by two screws on both sides of the valve. Should take me about an hour to do tomorrow. I figure removing the butterfly valve myself is the route to go, since it essentially does the same thing as Sinister's tv delete.


Honestly donít even remove it, itís not worth it imo. Itís charged air at that point the TV in place sprung open and disabled itís not going to close on you and itís not hurting flow.

Iíll get a new intake horn that delete the egr valve and tv in one price before I bother putting the tv on delete back on. I know there dumb too but they look so much cleaner. Right now my stock tv is in place disabled.

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 03:45 AM
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I got a $50 kit off amazon, had everything I needed. Works great.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 06:20 AM
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having seen both the expensive name brand kits and the cheapies off fleabay, the only differences are the engraved name, the color, and maybe the quality of the hose and clamps. that said, my $30 fleabay "black cloud diesel" kit worked perfectly fine. in fact, the cooler delete part of it (the hose) is still working perfectly fine. it had a bit of a coolant weep when i first installed it - they are cheap worm-drive clamps after all - but an extra turn on the screw and the leak stopped. been on there about 3 years or so now. about two years ago i hacked the hose in half and installed a T-fitting from the blue big-box home improvement store as a return for the coolant filter setup i installed after the pump crapped the bed on me. used more cheap hardware store worm-drive clamps and they're holding up just fine as well...

my two cents, save money on the stuff that doesn't really matter and spend it on stuff that does.

08 Resistol. Anarchy EFI, 5" TBE, Sinister coolant filter, Carbonite DP sensor, CSS -4" springs, reverse level, Amsoil bypass filter, Revmax VB / TCM, & a pile of boxes in the garage...
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10010001 View Post
Honestly donít even remove it, itís not worth it imo. Itís charged air at that point the TV in place sprung open and disabled itís not going to close on you and itís not hurting flow.

Iíll get a new intake horn that delete the egr valve and tv in one price before I bother putting the tv on delete back on. I know there dumb too but they look so much cleaner. Right now my stock tv is in place disabled.
They have been known to close. Intermittent loss of power and black smoke on hard throttle. This was the culprit for many. Removing the butterfly was the answer. Just a FYI.
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High tech old school and finally lovin it.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with the sentiment of spend where it is important, and go frugal where it isn't. I'm spending big $$$ on the tuner, but on the EGR, the $30 kit will do just fine.

Instead of getting the $160 DPF pipe from Diesel Truck Products, I went with the same thing from Ebay for $84

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DPF-DELETE-...ry!98682!US!-1

It's just a pipe after all. I'm putting down $3k on a Carli level kit in July, another $800 to have it installed, and another $2k for 295/65/R20 Toyos this summer. So, got to save $$$ where I can. The EGR delete kit and the DPF pipe seemed like the most logical choices to go frugal on.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:22 PM
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Regardless of where you buy the pipe, check the weld on the flange. My weld was pretty weak and eventually cracked so I had to have it re-welded. The exhaust shop guy did a heck of a weld on it, doubt it will crack again. I have read a few other cases of this as well. Might be worth taking it to a shop and spiting the guy a $20 to button up the cheap welds.


My flapper is so dam hard to close I can see it closing from air pressure, but it seems people do have issues with it... so I guess it might be worth deleting.

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