6.7 P-Pump Conversion with Pics - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 6.7L Trucks...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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6.7 P-Pump Conversion with Pics

First of all, donít attempt to do this. P-pumping the 6.7 is a bad idea for many reasons that I will point out later.

The reason I needed to do this is to incorporate the PTO option. For my truck, I needed to use a gear driven air compressor for my air bag and brake system. I also need to use a gear driven hydraulic pump for my full hydraulic steering. The new 24v motors and the 6.7s donít have the option for gear driven accessories. To do the conversion, a 5.9L 12v gear case and gears are needed which only fits a mechanical injection pump.

I could have used a 12v motor to start with but decided to go with the 6.7L motor. Since I have a street legal monster truck that weighs in at 14,000 lbs dry and rides on 53Ē tires, I wanted the larger displacement so that it is more efficient at pushing the behemoth down the road.


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post #2 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some of the pitfalls for doing the 6.7 p-pump conversion:
1) 12v gear case is needed and doesn’t fit
2) All 12v gears are needed.
3) Cam will not drive a mechanical lift pump
4) Block has different mounting holes. Custom brackets needed to support pump and accessories.
5) 6.7L head does not have clearance for the P-pump
6) 6.7L pulleys will not fit the 12v gear case
7) Oil pan will not fit
8) Injection lines will be custom
9) Injectors will need to be replaced
10) Valve cover will not fit
11) You loose the ability to control the variable turbo

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post #3 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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The first thing I did was to remove all the gears and gear housing. All gears have to come out and get replaced with helical cut 5.9L gears. The gears in the common rail 5.9 and 6.7 are straight cut gears. The earlier 5.9L motors all had helical cut gears. The crank gear is a real pain to remove while in the block. I had to build a custom puller to get it to come off. The 5.9 cam gear can press back in place of the 6.7 cam gear. Same goes for the crank gear. The oil pump gears can be pressed off and on or the entire pump can be replaced.
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post #4 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Holes had to be drilled in the block to accommodate the 94-98 5.9L gear case. Many of the holes were the same but there were about 7 holes that had to be drilled and tapped. In addition, the 5.9 and 6.7 have different dowel pins to locate the gear case. The dowel pins are critical for locating the gear case. If the gear case is not located correctly, then the gear lash between the cam gear and the pump and accessory gears will be wrong and could cause damage. I opted not to use dowel pins. They are for alignment purposes only. Once the case is bolted on and sealed, the dowel pins are no longer needed. This took some really careful measurements and a bunch of trial fits to get right. I also had to pay attention to the alignment of the gear case bottom is in alignment with the block so that I get a good seal on the oil pan.

I used the 5.9L gear case as an alignment tool for the new holes. To get the case to center on all the bolts, I used o-rings on the bolts. I then used a plate of steel and a mag drill to drill the holes. I learned that the 6.7 block is thin in some areas where the new holes need to go and drilled into the water jacket. This is not a huge deal since some loctite or permatex can be used to seal the threads.

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post #5 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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The 6.7 had hollow dowel pins on the bottom of the block/gear case. These were no longer needed and had to be filled. I used some socket head cap screws to fill the holes and machined them to fit flush with the block. In addition, there was another bolt hole that was no longer needed in which I used a set screw with a slot cut in it to fill in the hole. I also used permatex to seal the screws in the holes. The pictures show the screws before I cleaned the excess permatex off which is why they look so bad. This allows for a good seal on the gear case gasket.
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post #6 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Now came the tricky part. The injection pump had to be fitted to get the gear lash correct. As it turned out, the 6.7 head doesnít have enough room for the P-pump. The early 24v and the 12v have room cast in the intake plenum to allow for the fit of the p-pump. On later motors, the intake plenum has been opened up quite a bit. A few options can be used here. One is to use an earlier 24v head. Another option is to cut the plenum off and go with a custom plenum. I liked the plenum the way it is and didnít want to take the head off. I opted to cut and patch the plenum. I would have preferred to weld it, but that would require the removal of the head.

The pictures show where I cut out the plenum in the location where the pump would interfere.
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post #7 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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I made a patch that fit the inside of the plenum. It is made out of 3/16 steel plate and used a torch to shape it. I tapered the edges of the patch so that there would be little turbulence. I drilled and tapped the plenum and bolted the patch into place using JB weld to seal it. I like how it turned out. It is far less restrictive than the earlier heads.

I had to do a small amount of grinding on the pump. In addition, the oil inlet fitting on the injection pump had to be changed out to a banjo style fitting due to the tight fit.
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post #8 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some more pictures of the intake plenum with patch.
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post #9 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the injection pump oil line and clearance I had to do. I had to trim off some of the shaft that sticks out and a little of the housing where you see clean metal. The oil fitting was switched out to a banjo. I even had to machine some of the banjo bolt down a little.
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post #10 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 05:12 PM
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Crazy build you got going on there!
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post #11 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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To supply oil to the injection pump, I tapped into the oil pressure sender. Luckily, the oil pressure sender brass fitting is extra long. All I had to do is cut off the same amount of material as the thickness of a new banjo fitting. I had to drill some extra oil holes in the banjo bolt where the banjo fitting aligns. Oil will come out of this port and tee off to both the injection pump and the air compressor.
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post #12 of 93 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:40 PM
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Very interesting build project, you have going there. Good Luck.

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