Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, Tx
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
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|07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Non-Powertrain Discussion of Accessories, Interior, everything not power related...NO ADVERTISING|
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1. better quality parts than rancho, superlift, etc.... e.g. spherical fit on the control arms and sway bar links, greasable joints, variable rate coils, bilstein shocks.Problems I Encountered With The PP Lift
2. little higher lift than the upper end carli/thuren kits for asthetic reasons.
3. new adjustable control arms to set the caster angle during alignment.
Delivery: They're made to order so it'll take a week longer (a non issue really, just FYI). I actually kind of enjoyed saying "oooh ya know, my kit is made to order... that's why i don't have it yet"General Ram 2500 Lift Issues/Helpful Hints
Drag Link: My drag link is still not completely parallel with the track bar, but close. This kit requires the pitman arm to be drilled out and drag link flip insert to be used instead of providing a drop pitman arm. They recommend a 7/8" bit, but I used 55/64" and would recommend the same, or spend $65 on a drop pitman arm from another kit
Control Arms: I made the amateur mistake of setting the control arm length on a granite drafting table with calipers and pins. Dumb idea. it makes it pretty difficult to torque down the jam nuts when they're not on the vehicle. Furthermore, it turns out the control arm length specifications in the instructions is incorrect for my vehicle (2009), and my caster angle is currently 3.3 degrees where dodge's spec is 4-5 even with the cam on the lower control arm completely adjusted. In retrospect, i'd get them pretty close to how they're supposed to be, install them, THEN tighten the jam nuts for the trip to the dodge dealer and let them finish it off in the post-lift alignment.
Hardware: they forgot to include the control arm bolts with the kit, so double check to make sure you have the hardware before starting the lift! Otherwise you're going to waste an hour removing the exhaust for the upper control arm on the passenger side!
Instructions: I was pretty unimpressed with the detail, consistency, vocabulary and professionalism in the instructions. There were typos, misspelled words, missing words, unimportant tangents, too much explanation in some areas and a complete lack thereof in other areas. Have Rancho and/or Superlift's instructions for their comparable kits ready. Having said that, I'd much rather have a good quality part than a good instruction manual any day.
Rear Blocks: This isn't a problem with PP, but the front rides SOOO great now, and the back is still as rough as ever because I installed blocks instead of a minipack or full leaf spring replacement. Do yourself a favor upgrade to a mini pack!
1. You're going to need to lift the truck 6"-8" more than your jack stands will probably do. I blocked mine up with a stack of 4x4 segments nailed together.
2. 2 hydraulic jacks make things SO SO much easier so you can articulate the front axle. Borrow an extra.
3. Our truck uses big metric sizes, 21-25mm. have 2 of each of those sizes ready per person ready if you can borrow them!
4. you don't need a spring compressor. dissassemble the front and the axle will drop more than enough to remove the spring.
5. unless you cut the passenger side upper control arm bolt, you're going to have to remove the down pipe... a PITA. a recip. saw is great here.
6. to tighen the front shocks, there's an allen wrench hole in the top of the shaft. we looked like a bunch of confused cavemen trying to get it on... felt really dumb when we found it.
7. when removing the drag link ball joint, make sure your ball joint tool is a big enough wedge; That is, make sure it lifts the ball joint enough (had to borrow one with a steeper angle). furthermore, BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING IT! I cut the grease boot and the dealer couldn't get me a new sealed ball joint boot. i also messed up the ball joint so I went ahead and replaced the upper drag link assembly ($85 mistake). Some finesse would have paid off here.
8. When trying to re-install the track bar, it wasn't quite lining up. I used a ratchet strap from the passenger side axle to the driver side frame to bring it back to center. Way safer than trying to push on it.
9. If I did it again, I'd buy a drop pitman arm for another kit instead of drilling it out. I'm actually planning on it.
10. pizza and beer is much cheaper than paying someone to lift it.
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