3.5" Pure Performance Lift (w/ pics) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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3.5" Pure Performance Lift (w/ pics)

hey guys, so I finally installed the Pure Performance 3.5" X-Factor lift with Bilstein 5100's and optional upper control arms on my truck. it sits about 3.75" higher in the front than before. Just wanted to post the results for any curious about this kit and some hindsight info (and some general helpful info for ANY lift installation). Overall I am very pleased with the quality of the parts and George @ 8 Lug Truck Gear for his professionalism and customer service. It took about 7 hours to install with the help of 3 guys. I would have taken much less if I'd gotten more large diameter metric sockets! Tires are 35x12.5 Toyo MT's. Let me know what you think!

Before:


After:


Get The PP Lift if You Want
1. better quality parts than rancho, superlift, etc.... e.g. spherical fit on the control arms and sway bar links, greasable joints, variable rate coils, bilstein shocks.
2. little higher lift than the upper end carli/thuren kits for asthetic reasons.
3. new adjustable control arms to set the caster angle during alignment.
Problems I Encountered With The PP Lift
Delivery: They're made to order so it'll take a week longer (a non issue really, just FYI). I actually kind of enjoyed saying "oooh ya know, my kit is made to order... that's why i don't have it yet"

Drag Link: My drag link is still not completely parallel with the track bar, but close. This kit requires the pitman arm to be drilled out and drag link flip insert to be used instead of providing a drop pitman arm. They recommend a 7/8" bit, but I used 55/64" and would recommend the same, or spend $65 on a drop pitman arm from another kit

Control Arms: I made the amateur mistake of setting the control arm length on a granite drafting table with calipers and pins. Dumb idea. it makes it pretty difficult to torque down the jam nuts when they're not on the vehicle. Furthermore, it turns out the control arm length specifications in the instructions is incorrect for my vehicle (2009), and my caster angle is currently 3.3 degrees where dodge's spec is 4-5 even with the cam on the lower control arm completely adjusted. In retrospect, i'd get them pretty close to how they're supposed to be, install them, THEN tighten the jam nuts for the trip to the dodge dealer and let them finish it off in the post-lift alignment.

Hardware: they forgot to include the control arm bolts with the kit, so double check to make sure you have the hardware before starting the lift! Otherwise you're going to waste an hour removing the exhaust for the upper control arm on the passenger side!

Instructions: I was pretty unimpressed with the detail, consistency, vocabulary and professionalism in the instructions. There were typos, misspelled words, missing words, unimportant tangents, too much explanation in some areas and a complete lack thereof in other areas. Have Rancho and/or Superlift's instructions for their comparable kits ready. Having said that, I'd much rather have a good quality part than a good instruction manual any day.

Rear Blocks: This isn't a problem with PP, but the front rides SOOO great now, and the back is still as rough as ever because I installed blocks instead of a minipack or full leaf spring replacement. Do yourself a favor upgrade to a mini pack!
General Ram 2500 Lift Issues/Helpful Hints
1. You're going to need to lift the truck 6"-8" more than your jack stands will probably do. I blocked mine up with a stack of 4x4 segments nailed together.

2. 2 hydraulic jacks make things SO SO much easier so you can articulate the front axle. Borrow an extra.

3. Our truck uses big metric sizes, 21-25mm. have 2 of each of those sizes ready per person ready if you can borrow them!

4. you don't need a spring compressor. dissassemble the front and the axle will drop more than enough to remove the spring.

5. unless you cut the passenger side upper control arm bolt, you're going to have to remove the down pipe... a PITA. a recip. saw is great here.

6. to tighen the front shocks, there's an allen wrench hole in the top of the shaft. we looked like a bunch of confused cavemen trying to get it on... felt really dumb when we found it.

7. when removing the drag link ball joint, make sure your ball joint tool is a big enough wedge; That is, make sure it lifts the ball joint enough (had to borrow one with a steeper angle). furthermore, BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING IT! I cut the grease boot and the dealer couldn't get me a new sealed ball joint boot. i also messed up the ball joint so I went ahead and replaced the upper drag link assembly ($85 mistake). Some finesse would have paid off here.

8. When trying to re-install the track bar, it wasn't quite lining up. I used a ratchet strap from the passenger side axle to the driver side frame to bring it back to center. Way safer than trying to push on it.

9. If I did it again, I'd buy a drop pitman arm for another kit instead of drilling it out. I'm actually planning on it.

10. pizza and beer is much cheaper than paying someone to lift it.



'09 2500 Lonestar QC 4x4, 61k miles: Pure Performance 3.5" and Toyo 35x12.5R17's, XRT Pro, Glacier Diesel EGR Delete, DPF gone, S&B CAI

Last edited by jason250r; 12-21-2010 at 02:13 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 02:12 PM
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11. A pickle fork is not an approved tool

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 03:51 PM
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nice looking end result! thats about the right height!

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 06:15 PM
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Looks Great Jason!

Here are a few more tips:

One of the easiest ways to get the track bar lined up whether the truck is lifted or not is to do it with the truck on the ground. Have the axle side already connected and then have someone turn the sterring wheel back and forth while you line up the frame side hardware.

Like Bob said, I wouldn't use a pickle fork on the tie rod ends as you can see what the outcome is with the torn boots. You can usually leave the nut on with a few threads and then just hit knuckle/pitman arm with a hammer while applying a little pressure on the tie rod.

As far as the pitman arm goes, if you want to replace it make sure that the new one is a 3" drop arm as opposed to the 4.5 and 5" drop arms on the market or you will have some bumpsteer issues. The 3" drop arms have the same shape/geometry as your stock arm but with the taper drilled from the bottom instead of the top. So in the end it will most likely be the same thing as you have now.

I would also stick with the recommended drill size since the tapered sleeve is split so that it expands in the new hole. If the hole is bigger the sleeve will expand more which will cause the tie rod end to seat farther into the pitman arm.


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 06:35 PM
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Sir

Thank you for the honest review. That was kind of refreshing. I am starting to like the look of larger tires on the stock wheels.

We will certainly have someone go through the instructions in the next couple of weeks as we are planning on doing some updates. We are also looking into some pitman arm and steering system options for 2011.

Glad you are happy with the quality of the products!

JP
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 07:57 PM
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Thanks for posting this. I'm currently throwing around quite a few ideas for which kit i'd like to go with when it comes time for my own with tax return money. Good write up on both the good and the bad.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyd Ram View Post
Looks Great Jason!

Here are a few more tips:

One of the easiest ways to get the track bar lined up whether the truck is lifted or not is to do it with the truck on the ground. Have the axle side already connected and then have someone turn the sterring wheel back and forth while you line up the frame side hardware.

Like Bob said, I wouldn't use a pickle fork on the tie rod ends as you can see what the outcome is with the torn boots. You can usually leave the nut on with a few threads and then just hit knuckle/pitman arm with a hammer while applying a little pressure on the tie rod.

As far as the pitman arm goes, if you want to replace it make sure that the new one is a 3" drop arm as opposed to the 4.5 and 5" drop arms on the market or you will have some bumpsteer issues. The 3" drop arms have the same shape/geometry as your stock arm but with the taper drilled from the bottom instead of the top. So in the end it will most likely be the same thing as you have now.

I would also stick with the recommended drill size since the tapered sleeve is split so that it expands in the new hole. If the hole is bigger the sleeve will expand more which will cause the tie rod end to seat farther into the pitman arm.
you know after i read bob's response, i googled a pickle fork vs. a ball joint separator. Yes, i used a pickle fork, not a ball joint separator like I thought. Wouldn't reccomend that again, unless you just really want a new drag link upper assembly!

I can also see what you mean about seating the tapered fit. I was under the niave impression that you wanted the insert to fit tightly before tightening the drag link in place, which 55/64ths did well. I went ahead and followed up with a 7/8" reamer.

Thanks for the input and helping us all here.

'09 2500 Lonestar QC 4x4, 61k miles: Pure Performance 3.5" and Toyo 35x12.5R17's, XRT Pro, Glacier Diesel EGR Delete, DPF gone, S&B CAI
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