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Code P2563 MAP Sensor/Turbo

9K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  Motorolanut 
#1 ·
I have a 2007.5 Dodge 2500 that I purchased July 2017 with 152K (currently 168K) miles on it. After I purchased it, I took it to our mechanic for a look over and he found several stored P2563 codes. He inspected/tested the turbo and said there was nothing wrong with it, so he cleared the codes. Fast forward to September 2018. The CEL light came on and the same code was thrown. I took it in and was told that he couldn't find anything wrong with the turbo other than it needing to be cleaned along with the MAP Sensor. He cleaned it and the CEL light went away after he reset the computer. December 2018, the CEL light and same code appeared and then would disappear. This continued to happen over the next 2 months. Only for the CEL to stay on early March 2019. I took it in again to a different mechanic and was told nothing was wrong with the turbo, just needed a cleaning. It was cleaned, CEL light went off and came back on 3 days later. 3 different mechanics at 3 different shops say there is nothing wrong with the turbo.

4 days ago, I cleaned the MAP sensor and the CEL and code went away for about 3 days. 2 days later, I just ended up replacing the MAP sensor all together and the CEL light came back on the next day. The truck drives perfectly. No signs of power loss, no hesitation, no notice in decreased fuel economy. I can floor it and it takes off. There has also not been any other codes on the truck since I've had it or even stored from when I purchased it in 2017.

When I purchased the vehicle, I lived about 40 miles from anything and the long trips were good for it. Now, I live 3 miles away from civilization and the short trips, I feel, is what has caused this issue. I drove the truck for almost a year after moving without any lights or codes. After the 2nd mechanic and the first cleaning, I was told to ride with the EB on as well as it in tow mode, which I have.

The turbo was replaced by the 2nd owner at 81K miles. The 2nd owner just happened to be a dealership. They had possession of the truck for 4 years before selling it to the owner before me. I have read that once the turbo has been replaced that it wouldn't need to be replaced again for the life of the truck. Truck is stock and it was recommended that I do a delete...which I will do if I decide to keep it for the long haul (I use it to tow my camper). But I would like to refrain from that for the time being.

I have read the other threads that reference P2563, but none with my exact issue. Any suggestions as to what step I can take next would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Jennifer
 
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#6 ·
Towed the camper this weekend (10K lbs.) 200 miles round trip. EB and towing mode was on as well. The CEL light stayed on the entire trip there and back. I cranked the truck after parking the camper and the light went off. Stayed off the rest of the day and all day the next day. Cranked it today and the light came back on, on the way to work. Truck still drives fine, no issues at all.

Any suggestions with this new information?
 
#7 ·
Unplug the turbo check or clean the connection plug it back in good and tight I would even take the speed sensor completely out and have a good look at it as well,with it being semi intermittent I'm leaning towards an electrical connection
 
#8 ·
Ever get this sorted?

Our trucks read MAP, MAF, IAT, and turbo speed on the same channel so if you keep getting codes for one thing even after replacing what theoretically should fix the issue, the issue may be one of the other sensors and your truck is just throwing a code for “the odd man out” sensor.

It may be worth testing the turbo speed sensor in addition to checking on the health of your batteries with a load test and your battery cables. Bad or almost bad batteries can throw all manner of wonky codes, and cables with too much resistance due to internal corrosion or loose / corroded cable ends can cause the same symptom.

Hope this helps. Good luck.


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#9 ·
Thanks, guys. The code cleared out 5 days ago and has been off the entire time, until this afternoon when I cranked it. I will have the turbo sensor completely removed and tested. Also, the batteries are both a little over a year old, but I will definitely have the cables looked over.

Thank you both!
 
#10 ·
Update...Drove it Monday, light off, Tuesday, light on Wednesday, light off, Thursday, light on, today....LIGHT OFF! I won't be able to mess with the truck until next weekend. Just wanted to post an update in case someone has any other insight so I can just check it all at once.

Thanks again to all!
 
#11 ·
I don't want to be the snarky one but twice you've had the suggestion to test your batteries (individually) and twice you replied that they're a year old.
The batteries are probably good BUT they can short out/fail when new too so here's the third suggestion to have them tested to make sure.

Check the cables (they can fail internally), connections, clean and grease the chassis frame ground points, clean and grease the IAT, MAP, MAF and turbo speed sensor connections, replace the MAF sensor with your old MAP sensor (they're the same part iirc and this will eliminate the second sensor on the circuit).

As this is an ongoing problem, I would suggest (after you do the above) you find a shop that can monitor (via laptop) the above sensors when you're driving to pin point the sensor that deviating from the tuning maps and triggering the code.
 
#14 ·
FWIW, my truck went in for a front end look-over last weekend and they "tested" my batteries to show me they were good. i asked if they had disconnected them to test. cashier at NTB said "uh, no, we just hook up the tester to the cable ends". when i tried to explain that they didn't individually test the batteries but rather twice tested two group-31 batteries while the machine thought it was only reading one group-34 battery, he stood there and looked at me like i had a reproductive organ growing out of my forehead.

that's why we generally suggest to folks to have them tested at a big box store where you remove and carry the battery inside, or at least watch them come out and test them. that way you can disconnect the cables so you know they're only testing one at a time.
 
#15 ·
I have a P2262 code which is a turbo boost pressure not detected ( mechanical)
Sorry not hijacking thread but also facing a possible turbo replacement. Where is this turbo pressure sensor? Thing I don’t get is like her problem my prob goes away for 100 miles then returns. Also programmer shows pressure or boost made from turbo.
Sorry again not being a Jack good luck with your prob
 
#16 ·
It’s a turbo speed sensor. It’s on the center housing of the turbo, on the top, between the compressor and turbine snails, right next to the old oil can spout-looking line (that’s the oil feed line). It’s got a wire coming out the top of it and a little teardrop shaped plate on the bottom to hold it down.

As I was saying, the ECM reads MAP, MAF, IAT, and turbo speed sensor inputs all on the same channel, so it could be any of those sensors. If your digital gauge is reading boost, it’s pulling that data directly from the MAP sensor via the ECM, so I’m inclined to think that sensor is good if your truck appears to be reporting reasonably accurate boost levels.

I generally recommend trying to change the MAP and IAT sensors first as they’re both cheap and easy. The MAF is usually about $130-150 but easy to access. The turbo speed sensor is about $175-200 AND a royal pita to access.

Hope this helps.


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