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I just purchased a brand new 8.5'x20' v-nose trailer for my landscaping business and I want to protect the floor with something. In my racing trailer for my motorcycles I used the epoxy flooring with the colored chips and it seems to be holding up decent the past few years but I don't abuse it nearly as much as I will with my landscaping equipment.
Any ideas? Polyurithane? Paint mixed with sand for some grip?
I'm not sure how that stuff would hold up on plywood. I've heard mixed reviews about it peeling or being slippery when it's wet. I need all the traction I can get especially on the ramp door because if you pull a heavy 72" zero turn mower with a bagger system up the ramp on a wet day and one tire slips, very bad and expensive things happen
I used the hurculiner in my dirtbike trailer on the floors and walls. ^ years later its still looks good. When the 2t engines drip oil or coolant on floor,and then the nud; i just get the power washer out and clean in minutes. Only thing, YOU NEED TO LET THE TRAILER OPEN FOR A FEW DAYS, the fumes will burn your eyes in an instant. I thought my was drive after 24 hours, it was dry but not fully cured. Took almost a week to stop smelling
04.5 Silver 3500 Quad Cab, Long Bed, Dually, 4X4, NV 5600, Intake Horn, Bully Dog Triple Dog, High Idle, FASS 150/150And A MANIAC Behind The Wheel!
Some guys have used the same flooring you would use in a house. The foot square tiles with the adhesive backing are relatively inexpensive and cheap to repalce any damaged ones.
My trailer is all aluminum so my floor needs nothing to cover it. Aluminum is self protecting against most things.
1997 3500 club cab 3.54 gears towing & camper pkg. Still stock with 120k. 4" exhaust, 4kgsk, built transmission and exhaust brake waiting for installation. Still need ideas for improvements for hauling 15k fifth wheel.
My Featherlite came from the factory with some sort of gray house paint on the inside plywood floor, and no paint or sealer whatsoever on the underside of the floor. When I asked the dealer about this, he said that sealing both sides of a trailer floor will prevent the wood from breathing, which causes it to rot quicker. Most of the trailer floors that he replaced were because the owner tried to seal them to make them last longer, but ultimately caused them to rot much sooner than if they were just left bare. Featherlite gives an 8-year warranty on their trailers, so I'm not too worried about protecting the floor. Besides, if it does start to rot, I'll upgrade to the extruded aluminum flooring that I wish came with the trailer in the first place.
With that said, the Hoosiers are leaving four black spots on the gray decking where the car sits. I've been debating outdoor carpeting, garage flooring mat, or the traditional trailer coin / diamond tread rubber flooring. I've read that some people with smaller cargo trailers use horse stall mats, and people building DIY toy haulers use rolls of vinyl kitchen flooring. With the amount of gravel that gets tracked in on the race tires, whatever I go with needs to be easily sweepable. I'm guessing that you'll want the same thing if lawnmowers drop turf the same way.
Maybe you should consider a split flooring system? Put outdoor carpeting on the ramp to give traction and catch the initial dirt, and a sweepable/washable decking inside?????
2006 Ram 2500 SLT QCSB, 4x4, 6-speed G56 manual, VDO blower motor upgrade, panic button and recirc door delete mods, Diamond Eye 4" stainless cat-back exhaust
Better quality wood is about the only answer, IMO. We use apitong on big truck flatbed trailers. Will stand up to serious abuse. Pine, etc, just gets torn up (and ain't legal for that use). I'd accept that cheap wood has a short life and locate something better for the next go-round.
Ask questions and look for deals. Some of these wood types are heavy, dense and hard to install (DOT has serious rules about it) and some can't be drilled with ordinary equipment. But . . between softwood and that top-end stuff there is bound to be something that will give reliable and long life.
You'll get what you pay for. So quality wood, well-designed (cut and pre-drilled with best fasteners) laid out ahead of time might be a good approach. Exposure to wet is the biggest problem. Paint, undersealing and the rest aren't all that great.
Look also at HUBERWOOD Advantech and also NYLOBOARD. You can't be the first to ask these questions (they are popular on AIRSTREAM trailer sites when it's time to rebuiild after 30-40 years). The square foot/load bearing problem that an equipment trailer might have is what to determine about alternative products.
Now, that said, there are some specialty floor paints with non-skid from SHERWIN-WILLIAMS. I'd try that as a cheap floor that won't last long might as well perform better while it's in use.
2004.0 DODGE Ram QC/LB 2500 2WD/NV-5600 305/555 ISB. 7,940-lb. Stock. 192,000 miles/4,900-hrs @ 39-mph average. 35' 9k GVWR TT. 14.6-cpm solo & 25-cpm towing; 21-mpg average past 41k-miles
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