Michelin --> Nitto

[R-N-R]

Still exploring here, thanks for all the input! :cool

I only tow about #6500 with less than 500 in the bed at the same time. Any thoughts on going to a D rating to help soften the ride?

When do you usually replace your tires? I typically start looking when the ride goes to crap and there is about 3mm of tread depth left.

__________________
'02 2500, 2WD, 4.10, QC LB Cap, Bilstein, Gauges
DTT, AFE, PDR Boots ARP, B1-2, MagnaFlow, GRAND ROCK, Drag Comp, Regulated Fuel Delivery, IIS HRVP, M4.5, HTT
28' 6500# Sunline TT, Hensley, Prodigy

[gstanfield]

It has been my experience that D rated tires on any 8 lugger will wear out too fast. There may be exceptions, but that has been my experience.

George

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1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

[WorkhorseDiesel]

I would suggest getting your tire pressure up to at least 10 psi from max inflation. For example, on an E-rated tire, 70 psi is a good recommended pressure to get maximum tread life and fuel mileage. Avoid following the manufacturer's pressures listed on the build decal in the door jamb of your truck. They are placed there for the best "ride" and usually are much too low to provide good tire wear or fuel economy. To those that cannot tolerate a stiff ride, then you WILL have to sacrifice tread life and fuel economy for that better ride. The problem with lower pressures is that the tire will generate more and more heat as tire pressure decreases. It is not a real commonly mentioned aspect of the tire industry but as far as tires go, more heat = more wear. One directly affects the other. The lower the pressure, the more heat generated per mile. I've seen 70,000 mile rated tires wear out in 8,000 miles and in a span of 7 days. Why?? Because the tires were being tested non-stop, 24/7 at a test track and the intense heat generated by the long-term driving absolutely destroyed the integrity of the rubber compounds leading to maximum tire wear. They did this repeatedly with every make and model of tire in the book, including Michelins which usually win in the mileage category. So, longer tire wear is a function of correct air pressure (as I stated above) + regular rotation intervals. If tires are not rotated, subtract around 15,000 miles from the overall life of a tire, regardless of brand. Keeping air up and constant can net good wear and better fuel mileage in the long run. Hope this helps.

__________________
2001.5 White 2500 Reg-cab • 4x4 • NV4500 • 4.10 • BHAF • WALBRO GSL392 • Edge Juice + Attitude • VALAIR HD OFE • Scangauge II • 315 Cooper S/T's • Optimas • custom black grille & blue graphics • ** Diesel Fuel Treatment is here **

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Last edited by WorkhorseDiesel : 04-19-2007 at 11:29 PM.

[RobertP]

Originally Posted by WorkhorseDiesel

I would suggest getting your tire pressure up to at least 10 psi from max inflation. For example, on an E-rated tire, 70 psi is a good recommended pressure to get maximum tread life and fuel mileage. Avoid following the manufacturer's pressures listed on the build decal in the door jamb of your truck. They are placed there for the best "ride" and usually are much too low to provide good tire wear or fuel economy. To those that cannot tolerate a stiff ride, then you WILL have to sacrifice tread life and fuel economy for that better ride. The problem with lower pressures is that the tire will generate more and more heat as tire pressure decreases. It is not a real commonly mentioned aspect of the tire industry but as far as tires go, more heat = more wear. One directly affects the other. The lower the pressure, the more heat generated per mile. I've seen 70,000 mile rated tires wear out in 8,000 miles and in a span of 7 days. Why?? Because the tires were being tested non-stop, 24/7 at a test track and the intense heat generated by the long-term driving absolutely destroyed the integrity of the rubber compounds leading to maximum tire wear. They did this repeatedly with every make and model of tire in the book, including Michelins which usually win in the mileage category. So, longer tire wear is a function of correct air pressure (as I stated above) + regular rotation intervals. If tires are not rotated, subtract around 15,000 miles from the overall life of a tire, regardless of brand. Keeping air up and constant can net good wear and better fuel mileage in the long run. Hope this helps.

im sure that holds true to most tires but i ran my nitto's at 70psi the entire time i have had them until now. they have just plain worn out way too fast. i have had them rotated every 5,k and check the pressures at least once a week. i have recently dropped the pressure to 55psi to make them wear more evenly. seemed to wear more in the center. i want to get at least another 5'k out of them.

im up in the air on my next set of tires. it is between the BFG ATKO's or the pro comp extreem AT.

__________________
Maryland Chapter President. At your service.
05,5500,g56,II silver 66 second gen style!!, SBC DD, ,custom pumps and Injectors from II, smarty TNT-R best of 691HP/1152TQ 12.92@108MPH soon to be turned down!
07, 2500, 6 SP AUTO, 6.7. AFE, waiting on a smarty!!!
NGM Diesel,NHRDA Member

[MikesCTD]

Originally Posted by 97bankspower

as for a wildcat who makes a tire called a wildcat?????

Wildcats are made by Deans Tires and sold by various dealers thru out the US. Here in the NW they are sold by Les Schwab. Here is the website:
http://www.deantires.com/ Plug in your zipcode and you'll see who sells them.

__________________
04.5 SLT 2500 Quad Cab LWB Patriot Blue 295/70/17 Toyo M/T's Leer Canopy

[WorkhorseDiesel]

RobertP,
The Nittos are not necessarily the best-wearing tire in terms of good wearing tires. Their parent company, Toyo, makes a couple different tires that look very similar to the Nitto Grapplers but wear a bit better. On the two tires that you're thinking about for the next set, choose the BFG A/T's. There isn't a comparison to be made between those two. The BFG "should" wear much better and longer than the Nittos have for you. Hope this helps.

__________________
2001.5 White 2500 Reg-cab • 4x4 • NV4500 • 4.10 • BHAF • WALBRO GSL392 • Edge Juice + Attitude • VALAIR HD OFE • Scangauge II • 315 Cooper S/T's • Optimas • custom black grille & blue graphics • ** Diesel Fuel Treatment is here **

[upnorth]

Originally Posted by WorkhorseDiesel

RobertP,
The Nittos are not necessarily the best-wearing tire in terms of good wearing tires. Their parent company, Toyo, makes a couple different tires that look very similar to the Nitto Grapplers but wear a bit better. On the two tires that you're thinking about for the next set, choose the BFG A/T's. There isn't a comparison to be made between those two. The BFG "should" wear much better and longer than the Nittos have for you. Hope this helps.

I agree with WD, BFG AT is a great tire and wear really good. I do lot of gravel roads and the Xtra ply in the threadis helping avoiding flats where Michelin, Good Year and, of course, Firestone had failed. When not loaded, I run the BFG in the 40's...I know...but it gives me better traction.

[97bankspower]

Originally Posted by upnorth

I agree with WD, BFG AT is a great tire and wear really good. I do lot of gravel roads and the Xtra ply in the threadis helping avoiding flats where Michelin, Good Year and, of course, Firestone had failed. When not loaded, I run the BFG in the 40's...I know...but it gives me better traction.

actually michelin has not failed with the extra steel belts in the tread all of there d and e rated tires have extra belts in them to reduce punctures. and also michelin and bfg are made by the same company MAST michelin.

__________________
1997 2500, CTD, cc, lb, 4x4, banks powerpack(twin ram intake, big head wastegate, quick spool turbo) 3 in straight pipe side dump, K&N intake, starwheel turned up about half way, boost and egt gauges, 38 psi.

[pcbing]

Just had nitto terrra grapplers put back on the truck, got 32,000 out of the last set. They wear nice and min. noise. I kept em at 65psi.

mike

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2001 dodge 3500, quad cab, 5 speed, Valair feramic clutch, srw conversion, edge comp, Fass fuel, gauges (fuel,boost,egt), BHAF, Bully Dog stage 5 injectors, 296,000 miles www.firepunk.com

[R-N-R]

Great information from everybody and thanks for the tech info from WD.

It sounds like the Nitto/Toyo would work best for me in the winter and the Michelin in the summer. I was not on top of rotations this set so 15k would seem about right especially with having run them low on psi for most of the time.

Thanks again guys

__________________
'02 2500, 2WD, 4.10, QC LB Cap, Bilstein, Gauges
DTT, AFE, PDR Boots ARP, B1-2, MagnaFlow, GRAND ROCK, Drag Comp, Regulated Fuel Delivery, IIS HRVP, M4.5, HTT
28' 6500# Sunline TT, Hensley, Prodigy