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| Suspension Discussion Suspension Systems, Shocks, Springs, and More! |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Loose Stool Racing
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Hey Guys, I got a new truck, traded in my 98 I had since new. On that truck I had a leveling kit & 35" Toyos with 17" rims. On the new truck I am trying to decide whether to go with a 4" lift & 35"s or go with a 6" lift with 37"s. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'll probably go with a 20" rim. I like tall aggressive trucks, but I don't want to prematurely wear the front end, brakes or anything else. Also, I tow a 30' Fountain powerboat, a GTO on a car trailer, and snowmobiles in the winter, so it will be towing alot. Thanks for any advice.
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'08 3500HD Big Horn, QC, LB, 4x4, SRW, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73LSD, 6" Fabtech w/ Dirt Logic shocks & steering stabilizer, 20x10 Ultra Goliaths w/ 37" Toyo M/T's, N-Fab Bars, 10" polished drop hitch, Bright Silver
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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I have 6'inch and 37x12.5x17 and it sits at the perfect hieght, although most 6" kit are 6 front 3.5-4 in the rear and claim to be a leveling kit, they look stupid, and generally end up lower in the rear after they sag. So on my procomp kit I got 2 leafs made for each side and it sits perfect, I put duall steering stabilizers on it, and if you max the caster out, set it to about 1/4 inch toe-in you will not get the death wobble. The difference between 35 and 37 will not cause your front end to wear any differently. The aggressiveness of your tires will cause a poor ride compared to the height of your lift. There is a saying if you want to play you got to pay. more cost is expected, I personally don;t care I am a mechanic and do my own work so have a benefit of that but the looks and "prestige" that comes with being "big" and badder tehn the rest is worth the cost. With a deisel I only lost about 50kms per tank PS brother it is great to look down into cars and see the stuff people do..especially little hotties ![]()
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2008 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab Sport 6.7L 6speed automatic, 4X4. 6inch pro comp lift, dual steering stabilizer, 37X12.5X17 inch pro comp extreme MT tires, 17inch American Racing Atlas Rims, bushwacker flares, Custom "Real Fire" paint over electric blue |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
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I have the 4.5" with 20s and 35s and its perfect height for towing.. I tow my 25' enclosed snowmobile trailer every week in winter easily and I just took a toy hauler to Sturgis and it was fine.. I did get some air bags just to get rid of the sag.. I think a 6" might be too much to do a ton of towing.
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07 5.9 Black QC, G56 with South Bend Con OFE, 20s on 35s, Smarty, Edge w/ Att, Aero 4040 exhaust, AFE Stg 2 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Loose Stool Racing
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Thanks for the infor so far guys. Up here in the NW Les Schwab tire center does a Tuff Country as well as installs Fab Tech in 4"-6". Keep the tips coming - I only want to do ths once & will post pics later this week. One thing for sure - I can't stand the stock street tires...Good Lord...
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'08 3500HD Big Horn, QC, LB, 4x4, SRW, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73LSD, 6" Fabtech w/ Dirt Logic shocks & steering stabilizer, 20x10 Ultra Goliaths w/ 37" Toyo M/T's, N-Fab Bars, 10" polished drop hitch, Bright Silver
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#8 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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i have a 2nd gen so it kinf of hard to compare but the 35" toyos ride really nice compared to any other big tire out there...also, get a 20x10 rim..it is VERY stable when cornering and braking etc etc etc heres mine ![]() ![]()
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2001 DODGE 2500 4x4 QCSB - (D) all of the above
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#9 (permalink) |
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Loose Stool Racing
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Thank You
I am ordering the 4.5" Fabtech performance lift w/ dirt logic steering stabilizer. I think at this time I am going to use my 60% 35" Toyos I saved off my '98 & just update the wheels to something newer & chrome. Only issue is the tires are 17" as opposed to the 18"s or 20"s I wanted. This would save me about $1500 for the time being. Whaddya think? I'll post pics soon.
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'08 3500HD Big Horn, QC, LB, 4x4, SRW, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73LSD, 6" Fabtech w/ Dirt Logic shocks & steering stabilizer, 20x10 Ultra Goliaths w/ 37" Toyo M/T's, N-Fab Bars, 10" polished drop hitch, Bright Silver
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Head
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Quote:
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2001 DODGE 2500 4x4 QCSB - (D) all of the above
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#11 (permalink) |
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Loose Stool Racing
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Check that last statement. The difference between 35"s & 4.5" vs. 37"s & 6" is only $400. I am going to decide by Friday - it will be 20" wheels & Toyo M/T's. 2 more questions guys: I think I am going to go big - should I stay with a 20x9 or go 20x10 & what backspace? I am going with this wheel: Lastly - I couldn't find a truck with 4.10s so I got the 3.73. Does anybody have issues running 37"s & 3.73? I don't want to wear the trans or anything. Thanks very much.
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'08 3500HD Big Horn, QC, LB, 4x4, SRW, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73LSD, 6" Fabtech w/ Dirt Logic shocks & steering stabilizer, 20x10 Ultra Goliaths w/ 37" Toyo M/T's, N-Fab Bars, 10" polished drop hitch, Bright Silver
Last edited by Mark DaCosta : 09-08-2008 at 10:24 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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you will not wear your trans, However bombing around the city you will notice it does not shift into 5-6th as easily, and the dealer can only program your speedometer to within 10% or the equivelant of 35's should you go with 37's, which in my mind is A-OK it keeps me from driving too far beyond the speed limit... I checked it with GPS and distance and speed are exactly 10% out. You will need 3.5 backspace and odds are flares. The bushwacker oe flares with out the bolts are the most factory looking in my opinion, the faux rivet ones are overdone arouund here
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2008 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab Sport 6.7L 6speed automatic, 4X4. 6inch pro comp lift, dual steering stabilizer, 37X12.5X17 inch pro comp extreme MT tires, 17inch American Racing Atlas Rims, bushwacker flares, Custom "Real Fire" paint over electric blue |
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