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Suspension Discussion Suspension Systems, Shocks, Springs, and More!

 
       


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Old 08-24-2008, 02:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1010 View Post
Nice gap in the rear between the plate and the factory axle plate, are you planning for that to bend or just rock around?
That looks real safe, Nice work!
2 Bolts in the frame? really?
Here we go!!!
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Old 08-24-2008, 03:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Please explain why you think that makes a difference.
Which part, the water on the track or the crappy ladder bars?

The water bit was just a joke about the dust. They should mist the track to keep the dust down.

The ladder bar part, For the most effective control, the axle mount should be on the vertical axis of the axle, mounted below the axle tube. Because that's the point where they have the greatest leverage to counter act the rear axles tendency to "wrap" under the truck. The lader bar is used to stop "for and aft" movement of the axle. What happens is under power, the rear axle tends to move forward, which causes the "wheel hop" or axle wrap. Which can be destructive. Those boughten ones have the axle end mount in front of the axle, (on the block of all retarded things), therefore not utilizing all of the available leverage to stop the wheel hop. I wasn't trying to start anything, but just stating the facts. It's all in the physics aspect of it. Sorry if I offended anybody.
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Last edited by Hot Stuff : 08-24-2008 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 08-24-2008, 04:56 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Devil Dog,
You are sticking with the rear is safe?
Your defending that rear install, LOL!
How did you pass tech at the track?


Hot Stuff
How is the leverage different?
Could you show us a drawing of how the 2 designs differ?
What the arcs are thru the travel and how the one works better then the other one?
“but just stating the facts. It's all in the physics aspect of it”
Your facts sound like your assumptions.
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:32 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:41 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1010 View Post
Devil Dog,
You are sticking with the rear is safe?
Your defending that rear install, LOL!
How did you pass tech at the track?


Hot Stuff
How is the leverage different?
Could you show us a drawing of how the 2 designs differ?
What the arcs are thru the travel and how the one works better then the other one?
“but just stating the facts. It's all in the physics aspect of it”
Your facts sound like your assumptions.
Hey there 1010 this forum is a place for people to come get information and idea and share experience. So far all I have seen you do is talk down to people like someone crowned you king and only your ideas or knowledge is right. I am all for constructive criticism and welcome it. But so far all you have done is criticize. So lets keep this forum the great place that it is, add something constructive or move on please.
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:59 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Dude, settle down. I'm not saying those bars wont work, they just arent using all the available leverage. That's why most bars mount under the tubes. Like these.......Traction Bars

But anyway, here's a couple scetches to show you what I mean.





Plus the mounts look like a weak point on the blocks.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Thank you DevilDog, that's what I was thinking.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:06 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Thank you DevilDog, that's what I was thinking.


Oh yeah the axle mount was copied from one a big name suspension company made (Rancho) Thats where I got the idea to do it like that just in case anyone was wondering. And its 5/16 plate, pretty tough stuff to bend.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I disagree with you Devil Dog.
You bash products that you have never ran or seen as if you know all there is to know on the subject, then you post an unsafe application as the solution. I have not talked down to anyone. I have asked that facts be backed up. I have not even expressed my thoughts on this product. So this is a forum for you to express your thoughts but nobody else can if they don’t agree with you?

Hot Stuff
Your drawings are nice. But they incorrectly exaggerated to prove your point and don’t match the geometry of the systems. You are missing that the bar mounted to the block is lower then the under axle mount that you have illustrated. Look closer at the back of the trucks. Fully boxed 3/8 & 1/4 plate is not strong enough for you? I don’t agree with you there. Is this how you get your facts?

Wow, you guys can give it out but when someone calls you on it you sure get all upset.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I do see that the mounts on the blocks are very low. So my drawings are a bit off scale. But if the mount on the block is lower than the mounts that are fixed to the tubes, that just puts more stress on the blocks. Sounds like a bad deal to me. They do look plenty stong, I'm not questioning that.


Like I said earlier, run them if you like them so much. I don't care. I'll put my home brew ladder bar style up againt any boughten ones. Plus, I can build them, start to finish, for under $150. Mounts and all. You can have your $1000+ POS bars. Why would you want to have that torque on the blocks? Do it right and put tabs on the axle tubes themselves.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:27 PM   #35 (permalink)
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How am I bashing them? For one I said the look slick as all get out but I just didnt like the fact the it was one tube slid into another held by a bolt. You see how that works you say what you dont like then give a reason from your experience. You say my setup is unsafe but you never give a reason why you feel that way.
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:31 PM   #36 (permalink)
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How about just letting the subject go. He obviuosly just wants to argue.

1010, you go ahead and build you're own, or buy them and . I run what I know works. This isn't the 1st set I've done for guys, or the 10th for that. I've never had a problem.
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